Mike

Only big increase in NVH I noticed when I did the IE stuff was over things like cat-eyes. Driveline noise isn't too bad. Maybe swap the diff out and see if its that. What else did you change/swap?

Whitelines up front and dobis in the back, I've gone 60mm drop in the front and 40mm rear. All captive and fully legal. With a sub in the boot and the rear arches being lower it has a real nice stance. Both brands are around 30% stiffer than standard. I'm also running camber/toe adjusters in the rear but some people don't bother or need them for a 40mm drop in the rear. Obviously getting decent shocks such as bilsteins or konis will be hugely beneficial but at over $1000 for the set its just not worth it for me at the moment. Also get yourself a rear swaybar out of a 325i, nice improvement.

Most disagree with me but I'm running lowered springs on stock shocks, I've had this setup for about 3 years now and the front shocks are starting to show their age a little bit now. Handles good enough for me. Camber should be fine if you stay don't drop more than 30mm

Nah mines white, lasts way better than you think, just prep it goo with plastic primer

agreed, thats bullshit. They can afford the massive repayments on cars and go fast bits but can only pay 5bux a week in fines, yeah right. The point has already been made but kids have been playing around in cars for years. All thats happened is that fast cars are now cheap and plentiful. +1 for compulsory insurance too

wicked man, that car is so straight. Maybe paint the iS lip to match the painted sills?

Um, 2 turbos and associated plumbing? More complex, more expensive and more sh*t to go wrong. IMO get a properly sized single turbo

I'm pretty sure you can't do that either, once you are failed on something it is logged into the LTSA computer so you can't just cruise around till you find someone who will pass you. I've heard that they are getting tougher on bent rims, at least its only a bottle cap.

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since the rear spring is under a 'lever' type action, ie between the pivot point and the wheel, whereas the front is right above the center of the wheel. Around 0.65 ratio supposedly, ie 6.5mm change in spring height will change ride height by 10mm, and a 500 pound spring is effectively only a 325 pound spring.

pics don't work. I made mine for $60. As long as you have a welder, grinder and hacksaw you should be sweet. You can get them made up as well, I'd imagine a 6cyl one would cost anywhere from $500 upwards. Of course you could always get an adapter made up too, or make on yourself.

Here is a spreadsheet that tells ideal offset for a given rim size. also a few other things like tyre size and gearbox/diff ratios vs road speed. actually wont let me up load it. just pm email address if anyone wants it edited: http://www.antiform.co.nz/other/bimmerspor...Spreadsheet.zip

Was the 320iS 5 or 4 lug?

Hmmm, I should re-word that bit. Not trying to put down his accomplishments at all. I was trying to say all of the road cars that McLaren is famous for were built after his death. I suppose you could argue it was still his company and the F1 left a pretty big impression on the supercar scene. And I just like playing devil's advocate

Read the question guys, its about supercars. If it was motorsport you'd have to vote Bruce. I don't know much about Wallace but seeing as he was test driver for Miura and other lambos I'd say he's probably done more for the supercar scene. Much of what McLaren is famous for happened after Bruce's death.

x2

M10! count the cylinders noob or M12/13 to be correct, different heads to M10, 650hp

5mm should be enough to clear the strut but will look odd becuase the wheel will sit too far in, as josh said 20mm spacers would be ideal. watch the brakes though, I test fitted wheels that cleared the strut but the caliper hit the spokes

it will just change the name, we all know the hedgehog joke. @Ken- insurance companies already dislike BMWs, I'm sweet now but when I was younger it was nearly impossible to find insurance as a young driver with a BMW, even an old 318i

I'm planning on UK when I finish my eng degree, I should be able to go straight into work when I get over there. Basically I'm planning to work and save up then go see parts of Europe, then back to UK to get more cash and so on. If you have UK born grandparents it makes work permits etc so much easier. I'll just stay till I get sick of it. I've got a few mates that are also making plans to do their OE, depending on timing I'll either go by myself or go with mates. Don't think it really matters too much, if its just you, you can do what ever you want.

you can't really say what the standard offset is for a car, as the ideal offset changes depending on rim width. (unless of course they came with 17x8 from factory with that offset). The wider rims you get the more critical it is to get the right offset.

Let us know what you find Will, I don't think it will be the subframe though, its the same part no. between all models that we got.

But my car had discs with a small case diff? Was completly stock when I got it so I doubt someone has been changing stuff on it. Is it going to matter that much? I guess maybe a bit more where on cvs but mine have been fine even with lowered car.

tyres are oversized, most people run 215/40R17. You'll probably run into problems with them rubbing unless you do some guard work, even then you'll have to get the offsets right. I'll assume that they are 17x8 with that size tire, if so a ET20 offset would be about right. So you'd want a 15mm spacer. I don't know about 4 to 5 lug spacers so can't really comment, except I think you'll be lucky to find them under 15mm thick.

Ah thanks, I've got a med case diff in a small case frame, guess I'll have to check and see how the angles are. What part is different between the subframes then? Trailing arms and subframe all have same part no between models.