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|ncary

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Posts posted by |ncary


  1. No plans for a pedal box install at this stage.. Will be next year sometime I'd say. Will go the same route as JiB has done on Sam's car, GTR calipers etc, then match that to a pedal box with adjustable bias.

    Currently the car is ridiculously well balanced. Did a mini-summit rd run today and this thing loves 4 wheel sliding if things are hit overspeeding, even with brakes hard on.

    Video soon! Converting sucks with an old laptop. So will just upload the unedited footage haha


  2. Sam and I have a good ol' fashioned battle!

    post-1573-1284686709.jpg

    And COME ON CAR YOU AREN'T SUPPOSED TO DO THAT, DRIVE STRAIGHT!

    post-1573-1284686764.jpg

    Having no vac assisted brakes was hard work. Kind of liked it though. Bring on a dual master pedal box!

    *annnd, have plumbed back in the blow off valve air after Sam went back to the stock BOV with recirculation on his STI and it ran much, much better. With the air going back in just before the turbo it drives so much nicer, can actually use part throttle now without bucking and lurching. Just need to get this turbo swapped out and some 7psi boost pull videos will be coming!


  3. Just spent the past almost-2 years ringing a B25's neck all over the track and other twisty roads. The only maintenance done was oil changes (with warehouse oil) and a set of plugs, and the only problem that ever happened was it flooded once on startup. Oh and an oil line to the cooler started winding itself out of the block. Epic.

    Give it hell!


  4. It was having no trouble spinning the rears in 3rd for a bit of unforced oversteer with R888's.. I'd say it would indeed 'do a mean skid' haha.

    And I will probably put a T25 back on, or buy a munted one and get the shaft/impellers out of it. T28 or similar will come, it just involves so much work making new oil and water lines to suit (would be going top mount at the same time)

    There has been a distinct lack of pictures in this thread recently. Here are some random ones of the build. Note that the engine bay will be tidied up, had to get it going first..

    How it sits now:

    post-1573-1284363405.jpg

    post-1573-1284363454.jpg

    post-1573-1284363481.jpg

    Had to massage the headlight mounts a little..

    post-1573-1284363573.jpg

    What I have been dealing with, C101 to SR engine loom shown here.

    post-1573-1284363676.jpg

    And the wire that powers the coils, added a fuse just in case, and pushed together to make a cool pic (soldered it like that too)

    post-1573-1284363711.jpg


  5. I did it Cam. WE (the sam and the henry) did it! Car was out there by 12.30 and the new (second hand) clutch finally started gripping after a few laps. Good god the car handled differently. Much more like the MX5 I drove. The front end inertia was halved, and cripes it hauls out of the corner, was seeing over 200 now down the front straight (had no brake booster so I had to brake very early haha)

    untill a rubber seal got sucked into the turbo and bent all the fins on the compressor impeller.. Actually jammed the turbo in place and it wouldn't spool at all. Lost all the amazing response and power it had, now it takes 3 times as long to spool and only juuuuuuust crawls past sams 325i on the track. Gutted. Run those air filters people!

    And some very expensive alloy heat shield was borrowed from the other other racecar and protected the brake master all day. Went from searing hot master to cool to touch master with a A4 sized bit of amazing wave-y alloy jammed in there.

    Apart from the whole completely-f**king-a-turbo thing, it went very very well.


  6. F1 was good.

    Anyway before that Sam and I whipped the box off (honestly took about 12mins) and had a look. Not much meat left on the clutch, a bit of play in the engagement fork. I have a strong suspicion this car was owned by an idiot in Japan, oil changes are non-existant (massive build up of crud inside, yet compression is great and there appears to be no wear on things like the cam lobes) and now this worn clutch..

    Track day is tomorrow (well today) at 12 so will have to stop by a wreckers and sort a used clutch disk early and throw it in! Apart from that the engine runs really really nicely, transfers a lot more vibration through the solid engine mounts compared to the ol' straight 6 though!


  7. Can do, can do.

    So just before I got under the car and released the pressure from the slave cylinder. Took it for a drive and the clutch didn't slip. It is much much faster than a B25 haha!

    Untill, 3-4 clutch pushes later the clutch started slipping again. I can't quite figure this one out chaps. The clutch pedal has to effectively come out further, but it's maxed out in the master cylinder. I wondering if the wrong slave cylinder is on the car, maybe skyline ones fit and have different push rod lenghts?!

    Oh bam, I know, I'll take off the slave and grind down the push rod. This will enable the pressure plate to get all the way back down... Will update later.

    And yes, a huge write up on how to make an SR run in an e30 will come.


  8. Just drove it home. Have a nice startup vid. But the clutch is slipping like crazy as soon as boost comes on. Stupid. The engagement point is about an inch from the top of the pedal movement. It's like the clutch isn't being let out all the way.. Has anyone heard of this before? Google is failing for once.

    My god does the boost feel good though.

    *ok so have found a thread with the same sort of problem. looks like either the clutch fork is hung up, of the throw out bearing is hung up, or the clutch is fried. Either way the gearbox has to come off. Tops.


  9. May have solved the problem. A little tiny wire into the ecu which tells the car its actually cranking needs to be hooked up to ignition. Should have a very noisey video tomorrow!! (Downpipe is all the exhaust)

    And god damn aircraft switches are fun to use haha. I'm going to switch up everything at some point!


  10. Oh it is definitely something that is being considered. I will add on for sure once it is all road legal, but for most likely this entire summer it will be on track duty. Have read a lot of stories about people forgetting about switching it on haah. Just wait till you see my aircraft switches. Then it will become clear haha.

    Good progress today, untill it started raining. Car could be cranked over.. And it could fire. (hopefully), but odd jobs must be done first.


  11. Ok so the last 2 days has been sort of a blessing. We just had Uni holidays the past 2 weeks then on the second to last day of them we had the earthquake. If you have seen pictures of the library here at the Uni then you can understand the destruction. They closed the campus for a week starting on monday just been. The students have just had word the campus will be closed for ANOTHER week. Full on. What does it meaaan?

    Anyway. So I've been able to start finishing this car. The last 2 days I've been leaning over the engine bay going 'ohhh f**k' and slowly shortening/lengthening/adding connectors/deleting redundant bits. It's a hell of a mission. I've never tackled any sort of wiring job before and this is a pretty advanced job to be a noob for. I'll have a bit of proper write up done after the engine turns over, but for now I've mated the required wires from the engine harness through the C101 wires to the e30 fuse box. Things like constant 12V (ecu backup power), switched 12V with fuse (power for all sensors/misc), non-fused 12V (coil packs power, I added a fuse just in case), oil pressure switch, alternator charge tickler, starter motor trigger and coolant temp sender (which probably won't work with the stock e30 gauge). All of these have to be either extended across the engine bay or deloomed from the loom and shortened right up.

    Then under the dash in the C104 will be the tacho sender wire.

    Then on the other side of the engine I have to custom up a harness to include the alternator power, power feed, earth and aforementioned alternator charge tickler (tells the battery to charge or something). The power and power feed must be run through a 75Amp fuse to the positive battery terminal (I think). Still trying to locate a 75Amp fuse haha, I have a holder already.

    Then I have aircraft switches for the fan and fuel pump connected to relays and fuses, and some nice alloy plate to mount them on the back wall of the phone compartment in front of the gear shifter. Will make a postit note saying 'turn on fan' and leave it there for a few weeks.

    Then reverse lights. And f**k knows what else. All of this is soldered with heatshrink btw.

    If this was a nissian chassis it would be such an easy job. But with this BMW fuse box, it's very difficult to tell where the power for everything comes from.

    It'll probably work. Pictures either later or tomorrow!

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