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And thats another thing. I'd leave it so the windows can go down though, that would look odd but hey, it would get attention from people thinking WTF and thats why I wanna do it.

I am dissapointed in your logic.

Thats a Honda! Im simply looking at welding the rear doors. Not a full on rescultpering the entire exterior body shape.

Sadly the only BMW part off your original car is the kidney grills

Put the E30 down and step away... Worst idea ever. It would look like a tiny limo.

I went into the future and found what your car is going to look like after you are finished with it

KNIGHT RIDER!

Yeah, depends on the camera used/monitor settings etc. Mine sure is Lachssilber, I compared all 3 of our cars side by side on my screen and the similarly lit tones are the same.

Fog is certainly a factor I don't deal with when doing a run up there, way too dodgy.

And the camera is just like this, international standard 3 leg tripod with adjustable legs and removable mount, jammed in behind the seats and on the back seat.

It's a M325i, doesn't come in bronze or gold.

It's Lachssilber for sure.

It's made for Atta, he'll appreciate it

Nice wet day out at Ruapuna today. I got some good ol' pointnshoot video footage in the drizzle (lucky I have a waterproof camera). Put this together for Atta. Easy. Car sounds so refined with that Borla!

To be a bit cheeky I have added a extra long cut of a noisey Integra following you

It's only got 14inch wheels. It's sad how many M-Tech1's have them..

Enough said

Probably has a busted fledel too, only revs to 6250!

Would be great to know how it shifts with an extensive rebuild like that. (You can hear from my vids that my 2nd gear sync is dying)

How much were the rebuild parts? (PM me if you like)

Standard 16inch M5 weaves J, would be very, very hard to find in NZ. Only 2 E28 M5's in NZ I think!

Incary - how did you work it out from the turbine maps? I want to try do so with my own engine. I have a GT2560R (going on a 2 litre M10 with an NA cam) so can see the turbine map but have no idea how to interpret it (I understand the compressor maps).

I've seen a dyno of a Gt2860 on an M20 2.7 which peaks low - like < 5500rpm. I think it did get good boost by 2500rpm though. However, I think I recall it being a T3 0.63 one, which is at least as big as a T28 0.86 a/r. I think a 2.5 M20 needs at least a GT28 0.86 or a T3 0.63 - the T28 0.64 will be too small. It'd be like driving my wife's Skoda - a massive rush of power and torque, followed by a long declining tail of power. Hard to drive, to be honest - I'd rather more progressive boost buildup.

I think a nice big well placed wastegate will see a GT2876 .64 turbine turbo do very well on a 2.5 M20. With the big wastegate (like 50mm) you lose a bit of control over the boost pressure apparantly.. But it would make an amazing mid range monster for the Summit rd

The turbine graph is where the turbine reaches max efficiency after correcting the flow. First you must find the flow in lbs/min through the engine, corrected for VE. (For a 2.5litre M20 its about 35lb/min at redline at 10psi or something) So then you take the peak efficiency percentage of that flow over a range of revs (from 2-7000 in 1k increments) and then you can see if the exhaust will top out the turbine. This is what I assume is correct from the hours of reading I've done. No practical experience here.

So for a graph like this:

(Can't link the image sadly, but the turbine map on this page

So at 10psi (1.7 pressure ratio for noobs) the most efficient the turbine can be is when the corrected flow is at about 16lb/min. Which is almost (well, it'll be a little choked, would work better with more boost) 62% (the number on the graph) of 35lb/min that my engine would flow. So it'd go well untill you start revving over 6, but as said a big floppy wastegate would help that.

I'm pretty sure this is right hahahahaha.

I noticed a nice increase in turn-in speed and directive-ness (?). Don't need A/C in NZ anyway. Pump weighs 13kg + 3kg fan and 2kg radiator. Still have to get the dashboard out to complete the job in the future.

I win the Spotted thread! I think this car is a members, but it's absolutely stunning irl. Sorry, only had my pointnshoot Olympus with me in dusk conditions... Suxxor photos.

That's crazy, would love to see pics.

haha might want to be careful who you say that around...

Just generalising sorry

Ooooo flanges after the Cat, another facelift difference. Should be great to hear at the meet

8k! Hope it was a Kawasaki engine revving to 13

Haha yeah only redneck americans run holsets off their pickup trucks. Garrett's GT series are the most amazing flowing turbos ever made.

Take off your steering wheel, big nut under the centre cap (4 way wheel nut iron works well) and un-screw the stalks and pull untill you get it. Don't put an elbow through the window when it lets go!

And when you put the steering wheel back on, make sure you don't snap off the little tabs which reset your indicator after you are finished turning. Trust me it sucks, you'll be switching off the indicator in every car you drive after getting used to it in a E30..

Just a note, I have completly stock stalks and would NEVER consider doing gross sh*t like that to my car.

Take more pics Sammy showing how well it fits. I know it fits perfectly because I've seen it and it's top quality stuff.

I will stick with a Pre f/l Mtech 1 though

All the GT35's have a large compressor size, good for up to 4litres (or a 2litre that revs to 11k) so it makes massive power on low boost because it pushes such a large volume or air through, but you sacrifice maybe 1 thousands revs of spool time. You can see from the boost graph that he is getting full boost at 3750 or so, which is great! Most people run a GT35 on a 3.2 litre M3 engine, and have AMAZING results. So congrats must be made here to Luke and the Tuner. Cause it's a bloody good job.

*(to compare other spool times, I was going to run a GT28, which is quite slightly smaller, on a 2.5l M20, and have full boost at 2000-2500 and max revs of 6500 depending on wastegate placement, with 10psi giving 190-200kw to the wheels. So to get results like Luke has, a lot of things are done correctly and smartly.

I just used the turbine, not compressor (the graphs on the right hand side of the page, graphs on the Garrett website for each turbo. And this page is incredibly handy: http://www.enginelogics.com/cmaps.html (All in imperial though, but still works)

I found that a 2.5 litre single cam (lower VE - M20) would love something inbetween .64 and the next size up that garrett does (.86) (I was looking at GT28s for my set up)(other GT series have different sizes however, like a GT32 has a .78 which would be perfect)

(One more bracket for fun)