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|ncary

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Posts posted by |ncary


  1. with my evo 4 spoler i socked it in turps then took and piece of fishing real and did it that way if it makes sence there might be a easier way..

    is that the white bootlid by any chance:P?

    Ahh good good, you have tried the turps. No paint damage eh? Fishing line is a gold idea! Nice


  2. So it appears it is glued on? As well as the 6 10mm nuts.

    The thing will just not budge, I have a sharp plastic knife that doesn't even help. Could I pour turps or something under it to dissolve the glue?

    Or any other advice from experienced ones would be great.

    (I'm doing some rust murdering and repainting the black foam bit, faded and chipping)


  3. Yeah sorry, I meant in the Mtech versions, they are different for sure, good to know they fit both versions of the car.

    Mr sydwayz, technically there is no pre f/l Mtech 2. Mtech 1 is pre f/l, Mtech 2 is f/l. Other's have made the Tech2 fit on the early cars though.


  4. I'm pretty glad they did. I hit all my imperial sockets quite a long way with a bat recently :lol:

    May as well update the build then:

    Warrant this week, hopefully.

    Sunroof isn't leaking anymore yay. And I'm driving around with all springs captive, and noticing no difference over non-captivity. It's not too high either so it'll stay like that untill a track day yay.


  5. You must have missed my build thread in this same Project forum ahaa, I'm running some very sweet Ground Control coilovers and full AKG bushings in 75D.

    Linkzors:

    Ground Control Kit, same kit as Jib and hybrid run too.

    AKG Bushings, scroll down for the 75D Subframe, trailing arms and Diff mounts. These have made the greatest difference to my car for sure.

    I couldn't fault these products at all.

    Sway bars are next.


  6. Haha - 'tis true.

    Helpful tip - some of those fasteners are 'Merican - you'll need a 1/2" or 7/16", and I think the allen key bolt to adjust the rear height might be imperial too.

    Just re-reading some of the thread and I thought to say that it was all metric. 5mm allen key on the ride height adjusters, 13mm on the 3 strut tops and rear shock mounts, and 22mm on the shock nut. :)


  7. Only boy racers burtout like that.

    Real burnouts have the heal-toe going on, toe the brake, heal the gas, load the gears with the clutch out slightly and the handbrake up (saves your gearbox and diff), then drop that clutch, heat the tires and slot 2nd. Need a bit of right foot skill.

    Just for people who didn't know :)

    I've done 4 in this car ever :D


  8. What an influx of rolling E30 projects we have! Love it.

    Certainly one of the major reasons I picked doing a S50 or S54 (If I go back to WA ahaa) was because it enables the car to enter the BMW Open Class in the future. Otherwise it would be a Turbo M50 in the engine bay.

    Have a good as read of this thread. http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=76315

    There's not really too much you need eh. E34 M50 Oil Pan, pick up, and dipstick/tube probably being the most annoying to buy. I'm sure there are a few around though.


  9. Thats a degree more then me per side Jib! Yeah lowering the car like yours would get more caster, sure makes oversteer a hands-off-the-wheel affair ahaa.

    And I do hope to run some monster brakes at some stage, and these wheels look like they have enough spoke clearance. The 15inch weaves _almost_ fit the brake profile cut out from Massive Brakes... The weavy spokes clear fine, just the inner rim is about 3-5 mm too small gah, I'm sure it'd fit with some machining, would be nice to keep the 15in weaves.

    At the moment I'm trying to sort the retarded central locking. The car has a Uniden alarm with keyless entry. but the motor in the drivers door doesnt work, only the boot and passenger. I've used a key to open the car since I've had it, but it's a gamble whether or not the central locking works, the wiring from the door to the chassis is the culpret, a bit of a wiggle and it works for another 2 days.

    It wouldn't be hard to get the motor fixed would it? Might crack the door open later.


  10. My set-up isn't really that stiff eh, the Summit did hit the bump stops a couple of times, but the rates I have, for 99% of the road, are perfect, the wheels move lively.

    But I sure don't mind rolled guards heh, nothing wrong with a bit more track as well!

    How do you have crazy caster Jono? I have offset bushings and the plates set as far back as it goes. Still want more ha. Do you know your caster specs? Hmmm thinking about it, running it lower like you do would get a lot more angle on the strut, still, curious to know what you are at heh.


  11. Hmm yes, that is true. 16x8's at 20p need no rolling from what I've seen, but at 10..

    You know.... I wouldn't mind nice wide rolled out fenders :D

    Ahh still a pipe dream at this stage. Will add it too the to-do list. It really is a good feeling to have found a perfect wheel for an E30 though.


  12. Eye rection. Exactly what I was looking for, the look, the size and the offset. There are others, but miss important factors, like Rota Slipstreams or Sortmaxx wheels.

    Will look at getting some of these around summer time..

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