Ace Of Spades

Just clearing out old stuff to make room for new stuff..

-e34 M30 Radiator . will fit e30 and hoses on the same side for m20.. $100

-e30 325i Front Brake setup, Bolt on up grade for 4cyl $100 (rotors need a skim)

-e30 Brake booster x2 Both in working order, With master Cylinder $50 each

-e34 m30 engine mounts, Box of cold ones

-e30 accelerator pedal, A cold one 

Have some in Auckland bro, will check tho

Whats your Price?

Wheels? Price? Size? Offset? 

Cheers for the offer Andy tho I'm really looking for a 240mm one (m10 is about 228mm) for the clutch I have. Don't really want to buy another clutch..

Hey Bimmersporters, 

Looking for an e28 m30 single mass flywheel if anyone has one lying around?!.... lighter the better 

Also if anyone has some super cheep 16/17/18" wheels and tyres to fit an e30 that would be mint?

Cheers

Ace

I have one

Cheers guys!

Jon I believe you are correct from what I have been reading. The car has xyz coils and poly bushes but very undecided on which brand to use. 

The IE kits look great on paper, also the kit from vac looks good but again its more focused on the sedan so again I may be stuck with buying them separately. 

Any other brands? Is Evan at speed factor still a sponsor?

Whats peoples opinions on them? eg IE or HnR

Wanting the wagon to handle flat out hill climbs and also be drive able on the street.

Car also has more weight in under the bonnet 

Carpet die any time soon? and if you want rear leather seats try ebay.de.

#stevemurch ... skids vid is all i care about!

super stoked with the work taylors did but it was just an m30

On the hunt for some 3 piece wheels

Only Hartge or ac schnitzer type 1 wheels

16" would be ideal but could stretch for 17"

4x100 would be a dream find but pcd doesn't matter to much (will re drill them)

cheers

Tree House racing aren't around anymore, BlackPath also do the same part as well as Hard Race.

Will you take body parts? 22yr old drug free?

So I believe the throw out bearing seized, then probably collapsed, this causing no clutch at all when the pedal is pressed. Still engages if you put the car in gear with the engine off. So it looks like gearbox will be coming off, a bit annoying after just finishing the work but it's partially my fault for not doing the clutch while it was all out. I was trying to save some money!

I'm now in the process of finding a single mass flywheel and clutch kit. Picked up a flywheel yesterday but it turns out that one is not ideal as it's essentially a remake of a dual mass in single mass form, if that makes sense. Hopefully the other one I've been offered will be the one I'm looking for. No one in NZ has any clutch kits for this anywhere, cheapest I have found is a LUK on ebay which will be around $550 including delivery and import tax. Includes spigot bearing and throw out bearing so not too bad. Ironic really as the one time I wanted to actually buy something locally, no one can help.

Might pull the gearbox off next week since the car is just sitting now anyway.

Pm your details about the clutch kit you want, will be able to help

Bonnet?

I'm after a single mass M30 flywheel to fit my M30B35. Could make use of a clutch too if someone happens to have one as I'm looking at getting one rebuilt to stronger specs.

Can anyone confirm if M30B28 flywheels are the same?

I'm in Auckland but beggars can't be choosers and all that.

Have one in east auckland, standard one

Got one in auckland

No it's not, but I thought the test was 3 hard stops from 100kph without any fade - which it would pass without problem. Unless it's changed.

Really? I've been lead to believe it has changed then but i will email and look into it further and find out.

That looks like really good vfm. I was looking at a similar 4x100 set up on 300mm.de: 300x24 front and 294x19 rear using Porsche Boxster ATE calipers with all mounting kit supplied, but that's 50% more (before shipping).

Yeah I think so, saw the de kits but the price just put them way out or reach, plus its a smaller width rotor.

I've changed pads, fluid and mc in mine and it's been alright so far... Been through a few pads before finding some that worked. Also around the 400hp mark.

I'm not braking super hard or late, but haven't had problems at taupo or hamptons.

Anyway, I was interested in seeing what you decided to go with as I've also got 16" wheels and don't want to change them if I decide to upgrade the brakes.

Is this little beast certified? if so who was your cert guy ( I have been told by mine that i will need large upgraded brakes)

Sure thing, for anyone who wants to know .The only reason I will be running this setup is cause I want to run 16" wheels!

The solution I have chosen is stay with the 4x100 as I this is not a race car but more a street car for some track use. "As they are always heavier than dedicated track cars, don't have any real brake cooling, and are often quite powerful and drive by people who don't really know how to brake on a race-track / in a race-car" This is me and from what I have been told, oem (5 stud) pad thickness is limited compared to the likes of willwood or brembo, thus poor durability (compared) when you throw lots of heat on them on track.

Yes the 5 stud swap offers a more "stiffer" setup and can be modified using stock oem parts but for the ease I will stay with 4x100.

The price is also a big factor, first doing a 5 stud swap, then sourcing bigger brakes and also trying to make them fit under a 16" wheel compared to a one off bolt on kit made for 16" wheels. (Yes you could possibly do it a little cheeper finding/using other parts)

As with most of the 5 stud brake options I would have to go aftermarket for 300mm brakes to fit 16" wheels thus making it a little easier with the 4 stud option

I will use lee's bbk 4x100 setup for the front, (http://www.massivebrakes.com/brake-systems.php?p=e30_front_300x32mm) for a few reasons, thicker disk, Bigger pad, Better caliper and will fit under 16" wheels (really wanting to run 16" wheels)

This kit is the same price as the 300mm/22mm kit so for the sake of it il get the better one.

The rear setup will most likely be his rear bbk package. Will also be running an e32 booster and master cylinder.

Major thanks to " E30-323ti " for some proper good advice

Hope this makes sense

What pads are you running? Some high end pads, slotted rotors, fluid and cooling will do you. Ive heard the rx7 brakes arent good for racing (but that's not 1st hand experience). I run E46 328i brakes and motul fluid, never ran out of brakes at a track day.

Its allgood man, sorted now.

Got the advice need cheers guys, Mods can close and remove if needed

Does running out of brakes imply requiring more pressure, greater nodulation, or simply a lack of brakes?

Good fluid will help make the best of the mechanical parts. Something like Endless, or similar.

Just simply lack of brakes, both have said rotors will warp and pads are buggered after a day at the track depending on how they drove.(trashing the hell out of them)

The guy with the 330i brakes said that they are all good until he starts pushing the car towards the end of the day. (Brake fade )

With the rx7 brakes there simply wasn't enough.

Yeah, running out of brakes implies you had enough then you didn't. If this is the case you fix this will fluid, pads and cooling. If you ever have enough then you always have enough, you just need to fix what's wrong with the current setup.

On the other hand, if the stopping distance is below par when everything is fresh (think >35m to stop from 100km/h) then you don't have enough brakes and you need to upgrade something.

I don't think you'll ever fit 300mm rotors (with calipers!) under 16" rims but stand to be corrected. If you can it will be tight as... 280mm might be more comfortable.

How much will the car weigh (+/- 100kgs?)

That is what I am thinking with his 330i setup, Roughly 1400ish kgs give or take a driver.

I can fit 16's over my brembos w/325mm rotors (and even some 15's on the rear with 312mm M3 rotors).

Even those brakes can loose some bite on the track with road pads, with the pagids race pads they just seem to bite harder.

E46 330i rotors whilst a good diameter are only 25mm thick, and have a basic venting arrangement. M3 rotors have much wider vents and are radial (handed left/right) to keep cool.

Having been through several degrees of bbk on the E30, doing it again I'd go for something like the 300mm race setup that Massive do with a 4 or 6 pot will wood over a 32mm thick rotor.

You have a pm thankyou

Type of shock?

Spring rates?