rowanhol

so you guys have destroyed my hopes and dreams regarding forced induction on my car... what options do i have to get some power out of my m30 without spending bulk? ive spoken to someone locally about putting a chip in my car, $1000 for 18hp increase..not too sure if its really worth it so had a look at bmwe34.net and they recomended jim conforti chips which are $250US, although most of the chips over there are programed to run better on 91 octane i think..so just wondering if it'l be much of a hp increase running performance chip on lower octane fuel compared to standard chip on 95 octane, or would the performance chip be fine with 95octane?? what abouts cams? shrick cams are around $500US but itd be alot of work installing and setting up, they also recomend running stiffer valve springs. extractors?? where do i even get a set? port and polish head?maybe even get it skimmed but then i'll have to run octane boosters if the compression is too high correct?? apparently the intake manifold doesnt match the head nicely so porting there can help..and the standard afm is quite restrictive, will the air flow meter from a m50b25 be too small?

will attemp to remove them this weekend, you wanting to pick up??

have a e34 525 car that i got as a parts car for my 535 engine cooked,head rooted but block should be fine previous owner said gbox has had 3k spent on it, trying to obtain receipts car is a jap import with 190k on the clock its dark grey with charcoal cloth interior let me know what you need 027 696 2778 chch

Hey if you still after a transmission, i've just purchased a 91 525i as a parts car for my 535, supposedly the transmission has had an o/haul.. around the $3000 mark,just trying to get receipts from previous owner. i have no need for it so put in an offer of how much you'd like to pay. it's still in the car at the moment so could be a week or so before its out though

wow howd you manage to spend $5300?? i guess engine rebuild adds a bit to the cost..I'm kinda hoping that if i run lowish boost and keep the air cool it'l be ok with my old engine. im thinkng turbo manifold $1000ish imported seconhand turbo $400ish intercooler and piping $200 miscellaneous parts $500 many dozen beers $100 a lot of elbow grease priceless you got any pics or more details of how you're setting it all up?? maybe supercharger is the way to go, they sound rad.. could be cheaper not having to get a custom manifold, just need to get brackets machined up(have connections for that) but i cant find a secondhand supercharger for a 3.5.. plenty of toyota sc14's but they only go up to 3.0 at the most. anyone know where to find one? oh and will i need bigger injectors?? fuel pump?? wanting around 300hp

I guess im wanting to do it for around 2k, would source secondhand and cheap parts as i need them. I'm not wanting a huge increase in power so dont really think i'm going to need better brakes or a handling package.. car already has stiffer lower springs,which helps a litttle. does anyone know specs on the standard injectors and fuel pump?? would the standad exhaust be free flowing enough?? guess if i turbo i'll have to get a 1 into 2 pipe to go from turbo to exhaust,would that work fine? should i purchase a cast turbo manifold or get something made up locally? how do you go about getting ecu remapped or replaced to suit forced induction?? eg where do i go to get it done or where can i buy from cheers

hey guys just curious as to what would be the best path to take for some more power.. just wanting to know whats the easiest and cheapest,turbo or supercharger?? if i was going to turbo what do I need to do in regards to mapping of the computer or whatever?? same for supercharger.. ive seen single turbo manifolds for around $600 US, wouldnt mind an alpina biturbo manifold though, where the hell do you get one? and would there be enough room being RHD? and if I was going to supercharge what type of supercharger would i need? bassicly i just need a run down of things that will need to be done for both options, Id rather get parts seperately and on the cheep than buying a complete kit..yes i'm a tight ass not wanting to run massive amounts of boost, just want a reliable 300bhp..surely i'm not asking too much of the m30..or am i? hmm

thanks guys for all your help, just pricing up 235/45/17's.. hmm might hold off for a while, wallet feeling the pain..

well it did it again, this time i put the clutch in and the engine was dead.. pulled over and started it up again and its running mint....until next time.would like to know why the engine is randomly cutting out, best to take it to bmw sometime before i get caught out with a dead car on the side of the road

oh and yeah the car has been lowered by previos owner.. thinking of going an inch lower again in the front to even it up.. you know how the front always sits up on e34's. so myte have to take that into consideration with tyre choice

They do sit out a liitle further than the standard wheels as you would expect being et13 rather than 20 or 22 but just read up and apparently they are fine. and it's not that thay are rubbing on the guards(well not much) its more that the fronts are rubbing on the spring cup. thinking 235/45's are going to be the choice.

the offset does look wrong in photo but seems fine in person.. just not too sure if 45 profile is going to be low enough up front to stop it rubbing,how much difference in mm is there between a 50 and 45 profile tyre? with half worn 50 profile tyres they wore a groove in the tyre about 3mm deep does anyone know what the correct offset should be?

i think the heat helps break the bond between the two metals letting them pull apart,especially bolts that have been in since new and corroded into place.not 100% sure but it seems to work quite well

If the bolt heads are easy enough to get to try tapping them with a hammer..with a small amount of force. if all else fails apply heat, mmmm blow torches are fun

hey guys just got some ac's off trademe but the tyres they came with are rooted and too big for my car . the wheels are 8 1/2" wide 17's, have 8 1/2J x17 h2 e13 printed on em. came with 235 50's but they rub on the spring cups up front and the large profile looks ridiculous on the car. was thinking 225's all around with 40 profile at the front and 45 at the back.. what do you think? heres how odd they look on the car at the mo..

hmmm definately not selling. and i'm not 100% sure if its brakes being applied by themselves or engine cutting out..dont see why it would cut the engine though. very odd. could it be something like a pad or piston jamming then telling the abs system that something is wrong, hence the light appearing? doesnt really explain the jerking though.

Hey guys im having a really pesky issue with my car, it hapens randomly about once a month and generally only lasts a second or two but the other day it became worse. the abs warning light comes on and the car seems to slow down by itself as if its gently pulling the brakes on or the engine is dying..it some times flashes on and the car jerks as if you were jabing the brake pedal but last week the light stayed on for about 5 seconds and slowed me down then went back to normal. hmmm, pads and discs seem fine. thinking sensors.. whats the procedure for checking these? any other sugetstions? cheers

what sort of coin do you hope to get?

hey what gearbox and diff oil should i use in my 88 535, its manual 5spd and open diff.. also does anyone know what adjustment does what on the factory alarm? it has 2 adjustments for sensitivity but doesn't say what each one is.. hmm

Located in chch. myte have some other wheels lined up but if the sale doesnt go through i'll be in touch. What else have you guys got for grabs? i'd love some ac's

Hmm yeah i dont think it needs to be recored though, supposedly its a newish radiator according to previous owner. its just leaking really badly where the side tank joins to the main part of the radiator. have you heard of them being repaired by anyone? might have to do a home job on it haha. Forgot to mention that before the radiator burst a leak that one of the hoses was leaking so tightened the hose clamp and solved that problem but then the radiator started giving me issues.. is it possible that there is a blockage somwhere causing pressure to build up and find its way out?? if so how do I find the problem?

Hey my radiator is leaking where the plastic tanks are joined, can i use a radiator stop leak such as the stp stuff? or is there anyway it can be repaired? or does anyone have a radiator for sale? hmmm im in chch by the way cheers

how much you wanting for them?

Pics of the bbs? mmmm ac's...

looking for some nice looking mags and maybe tyres if you have em for my e34 535.any one have anything? 16,17 or 18"..