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slybma

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Posts posted by slybma


  1. Have sold my e30 so selling what bits I have left, have an m52b28 crankshaft and m20b20 con rods. Was going to use for my turbo setup but the cars gone now...

    After $200 for both the rods and crank

    021 332 145 txt/call if interested


  2. Well really the only things your going to be able to use from that e36 are the engine and wiring and the front brake hubs. You'll still need to buy an e34 sump setup, get a new exhaust manifold sorted. And for the 5 stud swap you'll still need to buy alot of parts to do it properly: the whole rear setup, m3 lower front arms and front shocks. You might be better to sell that e36 and use the money to buy what you need. M5* engines are getting pretty cheap, and unless you want to go forced induction then the m52 or m54 would be the better setup to go with


  3. Its a pretty well documented swap and in my opinion really easy, if you are doing all the work yourself you could do the engine and suspension swap for not much more than a couple of grand, i spent a bit more than that on my latest one due to me buying alot of extras. If you had everything ready to go you could do the swap in a weekend as its all rather straight forward. If you intend to use the suspension from the 325i to do you 5 stud swap the front shocks will catch in the e30 tunnels as they arent big enough so youll need to buy e36 M3 shocks and use the e30 springs and top hats or run coilovers. You're right about the rear youll need a setup from a z3 or compact e36

    • Like 1

  4. ^does that fold down? have you tried screwing it into your E30 or E36? will possibly take it

    Have one on my E30 same as that, folds down but stuck out a bit far for my liking so shortened it to make it sit nice.


  5. Well this was a hard decision but I have an opportunity on something and need to raise some funds, so while I still have the opportunity my cars up for sale, if I miss out then ill keep it.

    Bit of background info on it

    Build threads here Link

    Has:

    -M50b25 conversion

    -Fenix alloy radiator

    -M52 exhaust manifolds with custom built exhaust

    -Style 32 17x8 fronts and 17x8.5 rears with new tyres

    -E36 brake conversion

    -E36 front coilover conversion

    -E36 Evo M3 LCAs and offset castor bushes

    -Z3 rear suspension setup

    -325i front and rear sway bars fitted

    -Motorsport hardware wheel studs

    -Full SE interior from m325i e30

    -IS front lip and SE side skirts

    Lots of time gone into it, no cert yet as this is an impromptue sale, still has WOF and rego though.

    Looking for $6500 021332145 if you want to contact me about it

    29wwu95.jpg

    k20ga8.jpg


  6. Making good power from an NA V8 I find relatively easy, the 1UZs I've built for a couple of the local speedway guys are seeing 380-420hp and that's a pretty simple unsophisticated engine so I don't see it being too difficult to get 300-350 from a M60. Good quality parts for both setups will come with a high price tag, and from personal experience I know it pays to run quality.

    I'm just torn as I've owned both NA V8 and a turbo inline 6 (Toyota variants but still) and loved them both. I see this as being my last shot to spent a bit of money on the car before the house and kids situation kills my budget completely...


  7. Ive seen dyno results of both turbo and v8s that id be happy to see in my own car, im not hoping for crazy power otherwise id combine the two and go turbo v8. I don't mind it being complicated as in no stranger to transplanting engines, i can get a complete m60 conversion setup for 1500 then there is the obvious other bits needed to make it work. The ECU and injectors alone for the turbo setup will set me back more than that.

    Its not a question of what's going to be easier or cheaper, i just want something that will take some regular abuse without needing endless repair work, (and keeping within the BMW theme)


  8. all depends on what you want from the car man. turbo = power ( lots of it if u want lots) but lag and other little annoyances or v8 = torque and response but not a lot of hp (not much more than 300hp with a tune)

    Edit: not sayong that 300 is a small amount of hp, just that with turbo there is a higher chance of making more power without becoming bankrupt

    I want it to be reliable, it will be a mix of road and track use but mainly road use. The goal is 300-350hp at the rears, i had the rolling body weighed (minus the M50 and gearbox and an empty tank) its had some weight removed and it was just over 800kg so will be a light car with either option. Ill be building it myself so will keep costs down and not in too much of a hurry as car doesn't get driven often, i like the idea of having low down torque with reliability though


  9. I'm stuck for choice and I'm not sure what to do, I'm on the quest for more power out of my E30. It runs an M50tu engine atm which is due a rebuild as it had done 200km in the donor car and has had not attention since it was installed, I'm either going to rebuild it with the B28 stroker kit and go down the forced induction route. Or I have the option of an M60B40 engine which would keep it BMW original(ish). Anybody had much to do with M60 E30s? Turbo E30s are getting quite common and like to do a bit different so kind of leaning towards the V8. What do the people think?


  10. Looking to go with another option on the E30, but only if someone wants to buy my current one was going to turbo using the B28 crank setup but want to be a bit different.

    Can include everything to needed to fit the engine to your E30:

    -Exhaust manifolds modified for steering clearance.

    -E34 sump

    -Engine mounts

    -Coolant hoses to suit M40 radiator

    -Alternator, MAF and intake piping

    -ECU, wiring harness and adapter

    Flywheel and rubber engine mounts not included

    Looking for $1250ono

    • Like 1

  11. They are only 17s as I think 18s would be a big much for me. As Josh said the brakes limit my wheel size options and want to keep a BMW original style on it. I don't want to go any lower than it is now, since the track day the rear suspension has settled a little and sits just where I'd like it

    About the only thing I would do is put a set of offset control arm lollipops in to move the castor forward 1 inch to center the front wheel. Apart from that ... B) B)

    I have the offset castor bushes in it with the Evo arms as well at the moment, that's as far forward as I can get them. Any advice on other options?

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