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HappyH00ker

Race Series Competitors
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Posts posted by HappyH00ker


  1. Anyone have the switch that fits in the the slot above the stereo?

    Apparently the gearshift console one does not fit there

    Looks like this, but be good if someone had one with the picture on it too.

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    They are available on ebay & Pelican UK.. or certainly Ray at HELLBM..

    Ha.. must be that time of year.. my front window stopped working so checked fuse, then noticed that passenger window also not going... My console has a windows isolator switch, but there is nothing connected to it. This forum identified the unlabelled button as the window circuit breaker.. I now remember pushing it on the weekend.. nothing seemed to happen.. now I know.. :rolleyes: so can reassemble the console..


  2. I agree with the do it once do it right, haha in a desperate state atm tho :/ I checked the pivot point on the fork and was in the center where I'm guessing it should be, all my slaves popped the piston out, I had about 10mm of free play before the release bearing hits the pressure plate. I have put the made push-rod in the slave and it didn't come out easily and when I depressed the clutch it felt ok without bleeding it yet.

    The fork pivots on the driver's side of the gearbox. That is where my fork had disconnected from the pivot.

    Whilst at rest the left end of the fork looked central aligned with the slave rod, you might find the whole fork slides across to the left and bends another slave rod.

    Without an inspection panel, the only way to check and correct the fork pivot mount is to remove the gearbox, drive shaft ...

    Good luck, and let us know how you get on ..


  3. haha yeah fair point,

    I was in the same position with a torn slave boot leaking fluid.

    I was desperate to get the car going, and very nearly just replaced the slave without identifying the cause of the problem.

    Experienced advice from Glenn stopped my eagerness.

    I found the piston rod was being pushed across to the left by a fork that had become detached at the pivot. If I had gone ahead, it would have just recurred and I'd be back to square one.

    Good advice.. do it once, do it right.


  4. Yeah you use the same rod. I spose you could get a new tip from BMW new. Wouldn't be much.

    Just give the rod a good polish and put a little lube on it. < Haha that sounds dodgey.

    Ha, thanks Dan good advice, how long should I polish it :blink:


  5. Had clutch issue, yep was the Slave - found the outer seal was torn and leaking into bellhousing.

    Sourced new Master & Slave today, but the Slave doesn't have the pushrod included, I'm supposed to reuse the original.. only trouble is that the rubber tip is missing, may also be in bellhousing.. any suggestions where I can obtain either the pushrod or another rubber tip for mine ?

    post-16676-1340798220.jpg


  6. Thanks Allan, will do.

    Yep was the Slave - found the outer seal was torn and leaking into bellhousing.

    Sourced new Master & Slave today, but the Slave doesn't have the push rod included, I'm supposed to reuse the original.. only trouble is that the rubber tip is missing, may also be in bellhousing.. any suggestions where I can obtain either the pushrod or another rubber tip for mine ?

    post-16676-1340695868.jpg


  7. Dads E30 started to creep (if you held the pedal in, it would slowly start to engage and drive off!)

    I got the parts from partmaster (they were in stock, and I get trade there) for under $100 (I think) for both master and slave. They're both pretty easy to change, so worth doing anyway.

    It would also have a rubber pressure line fault - the inside can break down and block small orifices - effecting making one way valves :angry:

    You may find a good bleed would fix it anyway, but the parts are cheap enough - just flush the hard lines while the slave is off, to clear any crud out.

    Thanks Allan, will do.


  8. Any one experience this .. hillstart .. release clutch pedal, it comes back but no clutch engagement ?

    After a few long pumps of the pedal, a pressure hiss from the Master Cylinder and the clutch releases.

    With short pedal travel when on the move, no problem, but long pedal stroke for standing start it's no good.

    I'm guessing either Master or Slave Cylinder need replacing.

    What would keep pressure on Slave preventing clutch engaging - when the pedal isn't pressed ?

    Could it be the clutch mechanism itself not return pressuring the Salve shaft ?

    Currently in process of replacing both cylinders and using a braided hose.

    Appreciate any ideas..


  9. So far just an online quote. Typed in a few details, came back almost straight away rejected. I need to do some ringing around at least. Though I just don't understand how it can be such a hassle insuring an E30. There's a few of them in NZ.

    Have you tried SWANN ? My E30 race car is fully insured for $293/yr premium.. they don't care about modifications, they recognise enthusiasts and know the difference from street racing hoons.

  10. I have 3 sets of e30 wheels for sale. Let me know if you want more pics.

    1. 16x7.5 Borbet type A - ET30. Condition is below average but I have referbed one. Bought these to fit to my e30 but since found a different set of wheels so these have to go. - Wanting $400

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    2. 14x6 E30 Bottlecaps. Condition is below average. Comes with two toyo semi slicks and two shitty road tyres. I was using these to get my project rolling. - Wanting $80

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    3. 15x7 Random wheels with unknown offset. Come with slashed tyres and the condition of the wheels is average. I would suspect the offset is around ET25 - Wanting $350

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    What size and type ae the Toyo's ?


  11. Hi John, and welcome to the series & bimmersport! Another John in the E30s - you will need to work on a nickname as we have far too many Johns already :rolleyes: .

    I saw you running at the Festival but missed you in the last round at Puke, will probably see you at the AGM.

    Sounds like there should be plenty of opportunity to take out some weight - most of the 320s have to run with ballast weight to get up to the limits, and will certainly make a difference to the speed and handling.

    Hi John thanks.. Yes 1238kg was full tanks, so probably 1220 with 1/2 fuel load, being a 4 door doesn't help, also my cage looks more structural than others, has SA extra long range tank which I can also remove.. will keep me busy over winter.. Cheers


  12. Following a successful motorsport debut in 2010 Dunlop Targa in a very quick Peugeot 106 Rob & I decided to look for an E30 for Targa and BMW Race Driver Series..

    The Moro car came available and after some minor tweaks, I completed the NZ Festival of Motor Racing featuring BMW in Jan 2012 - 6 days of racing, no damage, what a blast - and a great bunch of guys in the class.

    Entered the final BRDS Round at Puke, again great racing, but at 1238kg I need to shed some weight to keep up.

    Had a lot of support and mechanical advice from mates as we've so far completed all the spanner work ourselves.

    Budget permitting I'll do the BRDS but would need a sponsor to do any Targa's - just too expensive.

    Looking forward to meeting more E30 racers at AGM & our Track Day.

    Cheers, John

    post-16676-1334965239.jpg

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