e30ftw

I think you've got the wrong connector. Possibly a difference between LHD and RHD, they are different P/N and look different. LHD doesn't have the brake booster rod passing through as it's direct on the pedal being LHD.

21521154163 - RHD

21521151697 - LHD

HPR5 5w40 Penrite $60 for a 6L at repco. Supercheap is price matching at $59 if you ask for it.

IMO $15k or up to $20k if I'm generous. 

Not that I've seen the car but based on photo's and description my issues are (and I'm being picky, just because of the asking price)

-Uncerted for coilovers so it needs to go through an entire recert (~$900). Coilovers in an E30 are not straightforward considering you need to provide weld certificate and NDT testing, so unless he has those and they are recent it would be a hassle

-Cheap seat covers, trim. Like.. awful.

-It's just a 318i with an M20B25. 

-Sure it's been repainted, looks great on the outside, though I'd be wary of it's quality. Mainly because the battery tray looks rough/rusted (could just be photo) but the obvious one for me is the fusebox is moved and remounted to the strut tower. And even more questionable is the sound deadening behind it has just been sprayed over. So if it was stripped down to a shell, surely you would have taken the 10 seconds to take off that small piece of sound deadening. My main gripe with this is thats a hot spot for rust, especially pre facelifts. How much of that firewall was properly sprayed if they didn't remove the sound deadening..

-Unoriginal color, not a major by any means but can see hints of it in the boot well (plus missing trims) and they didn't even spray the boot hinges lol.

-Mould on the headliner? Or maybe something else.. Surely give it a steam clean or something. 

-Not a fan of the angel eyes, but they are better than the standard pre-fl lights I guess.

Again, just being picky, which at that asking price I would sure as hell would be - considering it's not an original condition E30 or M325i, which should be the only E30's in the price range. 

I did a similar repair on mine. That part is borderline impossible to get to without cutting open more of the chassis. The rust starts on this piece underneath and spreads to the cowling area and under the windscreen. Check through the opening the inside of the lower windows in the corner, it usually starts from the inside. Take the fender off and you can slice open the inner fender. 

Also check the inside through those openings, feel up under the bottom of the windscreen and down (shown where I cut below). Generally the lower windshield corners rust from the inside out.

On the passenger side remove that globebox bracket, it's usually above that where the harness grommet passes through to the fusebox. The floor pan looks clean so that's good.

To get the best repair done you will need to remove the carpet, dash, heaterbox etc to get to the backside of it make sure it hasn't gone all the way through. I'd wire wheel it all and treat it with rust converter or POR15 to seal it. If it's made holes you will need to cut and weld. 

Check behind the brake booster / fuse box harness grommet and from the inside, drop the glovebox out and look there too. 

Pull the sound deadening off the firewall. Prefacelifts are notoriously rusty on the firewalls and down to the footwell on the inside. I can see a hint of it in your photo in the circle cut out next to where the steering column comes out. I'd lift the carpet at the front too.

Different size clutch disc, the flywheel also has the pilot bearing embedded in it instead of the crank, so the input shaft length may be shorter too.

That will only work with an E46 flywheel / clutch / starter. 

16 hours ago, elias said:

Yeah bit of a set back today unfortunately seller has decided to back out of the deal as someone has made him an offer and is picking it up before the weekend. Pretty shitty thing to do imo considering we had a deal. So back to the drawing board to keep looking for a coupe rolling body.

not too sure why people don’t do m54 more often but from what I understand they’re slightly more expensive engines and a little more tricky to get going in an e30.  

M54s are cheap. Almost everything is the same swap wise, it's just slightly more wiring involved in the adapter harness and having drive by wire. It's relatively easy and considering the amount of effort of doing a swap and cert etc, a better overall option for a more modern engine and power/torque is more than enough for an e30.

Ohh whoops, yeah got them mixed. I saw the interior picture of the coupe and the wiring looks diced up under the passenger seat. 

I think that one's butchered, I've seen him post numerous questions fighting wiring gremlins and not being able to get it started. The whole car was stripped by a previous owner and he put it back together.

2 hours ago, elias said:

Well you were right haha… went and had a look tonight, looks great from 5m away, look closely and there’s a very questionable repair to the lower a pillar where there must’ve been a significant rust hole, rust extending down into the engine bay down the firewall and in the boot floor down the sides. Definitely something to steer clear of for the money, I wouldn’t want anything to do with that a pillar job. 

Figured as much. I've bought enough e30s over the years and in at least the last 5 years they ALL have rust, its just how much of it.

Odo stopped over 10 years ago at 307,000kms so its probably well over that now. I also doubt it's rust free. Check all the usual spots - Lower A Piller under the Front windshield, Firewall behind the fuse box, under the front battery / battery tray, firewall around the steering column, Front radiator support (usually lower part, between the chassis, or anywhere really), Front sills / lower front guards, rear trunk pockets each side from the inside and underneath them and the rear valance, also around the edges of the bootlid and around the taillights is hard to spot with trims and lights in place. Just take a peak underneath  with your phone camera.

IMO the good: Paint looks tidy, Leather door cards, manual (but that's really just a pedal box difference, unless its the gearbox you are after too, which would work with an m5x). The bad: high unknown kms, probably needs a lot of underneath unless it's well maintained, Manual windows suck but thats preference, Seats are probably torn to shreds based on interior photos and seat covers, no engine bay pics so hesitant to make a comment on it's overall condition and whether it looks maintained or not. Overpriced by 5k I reckon, and that's if it checked out as rust free and well maintained.

https://m.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1659415685006102/

You won't find a rolling coupe body that easily unless someone is abandoning a project. And if you expect to find one without rust, you're dreaming. They all have rust now. Only exception are mint examples that have been garaged their entire life. If anyone tells you it's rust free it's either been repaired (and you never know how good) or they don't know where to look. 

Your best bet would be just look out for a 316i/318i coupe and go from there. In the last couple years they have been going for around 7-10k. But definitely expect rust, it's just how much you are willing to deal with.

24 minutes ago, deedub said:

I'm not on facebook (or any social media). What are they going for?

2.5k upwards. 

You're better of going with a 316/318i and m54 swapping it. The price on m20b25s these days is ridiculous. You can pick up an m54 half the price and have a more modern engine with a better power band that is more than enough for an e30. 

I feel like the demand for them has fallen off a little and they have narrowed more to a niche market for those who like the BMW classics. They're too pricey and old now. All the younger kids are jumping onto the E8X and E9X chassis. Even some long time E30 owners I've noticed have decided to sell on and move on to something else.

Probably the difference between those of us who grew up with E30's on the roads and you could pick one up for a dime, play around and learn some mechanical skills because they are a great car to learn on. That's somewhat moved on a little now as they've become expensive and there are more modern options flooding the market with high HP and a modern chassis, with a small element of tinkering to them (Bolt ons, wheels etc). 

I had a 135i N55 DCT for about 5 years. Awesome car, pretty reliable. Bought it with 85,000kms and immediately I had the HPFP go out, one of the issues inherited from the N54 on the earlier models of the N55 (2010). Same with the electric Waterpump, but that was at 95,000kms so nothing out of the ordinary from a usual waterpump maintenance schedule.

DCT was great, never had issues. I used to push it pretty hard. I did the usual Stage 2 stuff quite early in ownership with the upgraded intercooler and charge pipes, catless downpipes, Stage 2 MHD tune and used it as my daily like that for 4 years without a single problem. The N55 is much more reliable than the N54. I sold it at about 125,000kms. 

2 hours ago, E30 325i Rag-Top said:

A few of my reference books mention it on the 325i sport.

Sport box ratios 3.76 1st gear, 2.33 2nd gear, 1.61 3rd gear, 1.23 4th gear, 1.00 5th

Yeah I found reference to it on E30wiki: https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php/Drivetrain#Manual

The ratios you quoted look like the Getrag 245 ones on there

Source? I've never heard of different G260 boxes on the e30 M20 so I'm curious.

26 minutes ago, Neil McCauley said:

 

Not sure there's a trademark issue here, unless GarageNO are stamping the BMW logo or part numbers into the panels.

 

Yeah I wasn't talking about panel by panel reproduction, I was referring to the original posted link where they recreated every panel of the chassis and sell it as a complete body panel set Toyota AE86. 

I've bought some of the smaller panels from E30 Garage and they are very good quality. Far better than some of the other reproduction panels that come from Thailand that are thinner metal, stamped poorly and jagged edges.

I wouldn't be surprised considering the investment they have made to produce tooling to stamp M3 panels that they would eventually have enough to make a complete chassis almost.

I wonder what the original manufacturers think about it.. does it cross into their patents/trademarks selling an entire reproduction chassis

The belt will make that noise if you got coolant on it. I did that recently and had the exact same noise. You can either try cleaning off the belt with some electrical cleaner (doesn't leave residue), in my case this helped a little, or suck it up replace the belt again like I ended up doing. I'd just finished replacing the pump, thermostat, belts and tensioners too so that was fun doing the belt again..