Garett

LOOKING FOR 4.4L V8 OUT OF E38 OR E39 BMW

CHEEERS

Hey guys,

I started my new job at SDeuropean BMW/Audi and VW today so if you need any goodies let me know

Anyway this turbo, you think this will be the go??

T04z on trademe

and a maybe a design option pic?

Do it.. fu*ckn mean.

i got the day off work again today and got a wee bit done...

i removed the rubber seal from the seams in the engine bay and welded 1" long welds between the factory spot welds to give the strut towers a bit more strength. i also did a bit of panel beating in the engine bay and filled a few unused holes with weld and a thin skim of bog sanded back with the D.A. to a smooth finish, still a bit more to do in there this week before i can paint it, hopefully this weekend

I guess you are going to use this car for drift and not race?

Ill do both and see what one im better at and stick to that lol.

replica rims usually weigh quite abit dont they?

Yeah man they weight a sh*t load... i think i may have to keep looking. ill set up my guards for these wheels because i can aways space out other wheels to suit.

at 0 camber no bigger than 225/40 but if i was to add some more camber i should be able to run a wider tire.

Yes this is true.. would be very nice on a e34...

So i got Gifted some e60 18" M5 Replica wheels to go on my car peoples thoughts please...

they are 18x9.5 Rear and 18x8.5 front et 20 with 225/40/18 tyres

Let me know if you,d run em.

Im not to sure sorry

18 x 8.5 RS-GT RS911 et-15

looking for the one rim that's missing

BBS Fitment and Cars came out on here!!

3 Rims and link to 4th here...

http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/bbs-rsg..._5762_5763.html

so 1 of 18 x 8.5 RS-GT RS911 et-15

and 2 of 18 x 9.5 RS-GT RS912 et-15

Pics Below...

ok you can run a smaller pulley on the charger but at risk of over heating the charger, and you would loose the appeal of being able to turn on and off as you would have to get rid of the clutch on the front.

When its on the clutch it blows cool air into the engine as its not running enough to get hot and cools when not using it, also your idle will be normal.

on a 2.8L 6 cylinder it was putting out 4 psi from get go and dropped to 3psi at red line.

Here are some pics

All pipe work, manifolds, BOV, Boost Guage, Drive Belt, Pulley, kick in Switch on pedal.

Had it in my daily driver for a few months before i took it off the road to build a race car.

and it was sooo much fun, you wouldnt know it was there untill you floored it which activated the clutch on the pully via a switch on the floor, it puts ya head back in the seat lol

gets pretty tight for the turbo setup have you got room to stand the motor up? i did it on mine and gained a heap of room

Maybe, i may have to look into this...

Looking good

how much clearance do you have to the steering column?

Im not to sure i didnt look haha ill see again once it all goes back in next..

Guards are done to fit 18x9.5 BBS RS-GT's with 2mm of gap when sitting on the bumps, and flush when at ride height.

Has anyone got one BBS 18x8.5 RS-GT as i have 2 Rears and only one front, id love to run these rims

a lil update

Looking Sharp!!

Is that Castor reading correct? -3º is very low.

I thought stock E36's were -6º and M3's nearer -9º

Also, toe setting for track are best at 0 to +1/8" (1/16" each side - Toe-out)

reason being, the toe changes with bump travel, and with the rack infront of the axle the toe changes are outwards. If you've set low -ve toe(in) on hard braking +bump, Toe will change from toe-in to toe-out, which can be quite unsettling.

With 0 (or +ve) toe, it's pretty crap to drive on the street (esp. with wide rubber) & tracks all over the show.

With a bit of rear toe-in you will maintain straight-line stability (and rear camber typically 1 - 1.5º LESS than the front)

Just my 2c worth

haha ill have to get another one done soon this is good feedback cheers bud...

took it to get the wheels aligned, fronts now are -3 caster and -3 camber toe in .15, the rear toe is .15 and the camber is -3 i want it at 0 but you can not achieve this unless you you through the toe out the window. so what i need is some adjustable trailing toe arms you know the main control arm that carries the hub has anyone came across this and how did you fix it?

Spacers are now on, can finally set the rear guards up and paint, sits real nice now

Hey man just a heads up

Ive had two of those manifolds and haven't had any success.

Turbo fouled on the strut tower when all bolted up.

I had to make a 'U' shaped adapter that mounted the turbo

in place of the aircon.

Not a bad idea ill try it on soon and lets ya know.

its a t3 flange and you have a lot of work to do before you use them its chinese gem and not too flash on the inside ive spent many hours cleaning them up before use they also crack so weld extra tags around the pipes to the main flange to the head, but they are cheap around 100us and you couldnt make one for that

cool thanks, will do.. i paid 250 for it.

OK so my spacers didn't arrive but my new turbo manifold did im not sure what flange it has on it so if someone can chyme in and tell me would be much appreciated..

So seens as im going down the line of turbo'n my m50 engine for now just so i can get my car on the track a bit sooner i have my SC14 kit for sale so if anyone wants it let me know

SC14 Charger on clutch

Piping

Manifolds

Blow off Valve

Pedal Switch

Boost Guage

Fan Belt and Pulley

2x One Way Valves for ICV to prevent boost loss

on my 2.8L 6Cyl m50 engine boosts at 3.5- 4 psi