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str8_6

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Posts posted by str8_6


  1. Agreed, tons of information on oil usage online. Within spec. Post 2000 cars can be impacted too.

    It's considered normal for pre-2000 models.

    In 'Murica there are examples of mega mileage M5's - 200k + miles.

    Here's some specs on this one for any one interesed. Looks to have some individual data, however protected.

    ywwp.jpg


  2. get it scanned. Hopefully that should tell you something.

    But from memory the ECU uses inputs from the MAF & 02 sensors to trim fuel maps. But anything from old spark plugs or crap fuel could affect.

    But you are right. I regularly get 10l/100 in my M5 cruisin @ 100kph on the motorway, 14-15 on average when i hammer it and usually 600km out of a tank.

    I'm getting the same consumption out of my M5. One of the things that pleasantly surprised me was it's economy on a long cruise. Generally around town it sits at 13 to 14 litres per 100km. Not bad really.

    Little bit surprised by the 530i's consumption though.


  3. If you're interested I've got a surplus set of 8 NGK Iridium IX BKR6EIX (recommended plug upgrade for E39 540 and M5). Darren (M5V8) put some in his M5 and said they are excellent. These retail for around $25-35 each in NZ you can have them for $175 all up. PM if interested.

    Would be interested to know more. What differences do they make?


  4. Gave me an awful ride on my M5. I was told they often can't be repaired if they puncture, and cost heaps more. I was struggling to see any benefit, other than being able to continue to drive slowly rather than stop and change the tyre if you get a puncture.

    I didn't think the M cars had run flat tyres. My e39 M5 has an "M Mobility Kit" in the boot. Not sure about the newer models however.


  5. My one is mint with higher km's... but I think i'm more in the holding onto it club, because I love it and I'm finding it too hard to part with.

    to be honest.

    I'd say the days of finding a nice mint one might be over.

    The people whom have them are holding onto them as it's not worth selling them for the current prices. It took me over a year to find mine, I almost had given up and was looking at AMG's & RS audi's or imports.

    I would say way from rough or no history ones. They can be expensive to fix.

    You might have to import one if you are dead keen on one.

    Otherwise you might be better off looking for a good M3 or E60 M5 if that tickles your fancy.


  6. Is it not better to take them somewhere to get repaired professionally?

    I've always been on the look out for good door cars but with E36s being out of production for 13 years now, its hard to find any in good condition from a wrecked car.

    Its only a mater of time before too much heat breaks down the eco glue they used, or the material itself shrinks, stretching off.

    I thought taking it to be repaired would be better too. Unfortunately the reputable place I chose did an average job and I would say that looking at it now it's beyond repair.


  7. Thanks for the info - I actually had this thread bookmarked - both my doors have developed the wet door sill with no water inside the car as of yet so I plan to tackle it this weekend. Looks like it will be a trip to Bunnings/Mitre 10 for me too.

    My other question is - do you have to remove and re-install the entire barrier? If possible I would just like to seal the lower areas where it comes away from the door, but I'm conscious the rest of the barrier may fail also if I do that.

    I didn't remove the entire vapor barrier. I simply pulled back the lower half and re-sealed it. Mine wasn't in bad condition. Car is NZ new and has been garaged for the majority of it's life.

    Another common cause for them failing is due to a previous repair of something in the actual door. Say a window regulator or airbag fault. If the barrier is not resealed correctly after mechanical work, it will come unstuck and leak.


  8. When I first bought my M5, the right rear passenger door dropped a large puddle of water when I opened it say after I washed the car.

    I found this DIY pretty useful: LINK. I can't remember exactly what I used as the glue/sealant, but picked it up from Mitre 10 from memory.

    Been fine for the last two years now.


  9. no such thing as a cheap M5 imho.

    Agreed Paul, I normally see 14.5 l/100km consumption, so I wouldn't call it cheap, but for the performance and the age of the technology, it isn't that bad. It is a lot of car for the money. But if you worry about fuel, you have missed the point of this car.

    Agree with Darren on clutches. Factory clutch is a weak point (see M5Board.com for countless tales). But aside from that, it should really only have normal e39 issues along with with occasional M5 price tag repairs - potential vanos repairs etc.

    Another thing to note - some love to drink oil, others don't. Another common discussion on M5Board.com. Castrol TWS is their preferred choice, normally only found at the local BMW dealer.


  10. I had this happen to me (drivers side though). Open your bonnet, and there is a trunk-like piece of plastic coming out of the firewall. This is where the water drains out, and chances are its blocked up.

    Mine was full of crap from the last 20 years. Just clean it out and pop it back on, I havent had that problem since.

    Tried the above technique on my e30 and it worked a treat. It was very clogged up - no more wet carpet.


  11. They are a beautiful car, especially the V6!

    Not sure of their reliability but have been told better than 156. Had the previous shape 164 in the family some time ago now. The 3.0 V6 sounds amazing, but was massively unreliable - import though, so NZ New with history would be your safer option.

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