kiwipetrolhead

Hi there, Required urgently: ignition sensors - TDC / crankshaft degrees sensors. These sensors are mounted down on the bell housing (not on the front pulley as I thought earlier). The car is in a garage in Levin and they tell me that there are different ones depending on if an Auto or Manual. In this case it is a manual and both sensors are mounted on the bellhousing. I can get them to give you a call to check the for right one, if anyone can help. Car is owned by my wife's dad (he's old) - and he is stuck in the country (where he lives) while the car is not running, so if anyone can help to source one quickly it would be really appreciated. He lives in Levin (about an hour north of Wellington), or courier to Palmerston North (where I live). You can reply here, or email me on [email protected] (I check this email more often than [email protected]) Thanks Paul

Maybe a bit off topic, but... Speaking about tyres, I am very happy with Toyo tyres on my e34 540i, but not so happy with Goodyears. Over Xmas a Goodyear tyre on the right-rear developed a major case separation in Taupo while on our way to Hahei (Coromandel). There was a real bad shimmy, or vibration, as we drove into Taupo – I suspected a tyre straight away, but initially it took a bit of searching to find the culprit. Because it was New Year weekend, Saturday pm, everything was closed, so we could not get another tyre until Tuesday, so we were stuck in Taupo (and try getting unbooked accommodation at the time of year). (We discovered we could not use the spare wheel because unknowingly to us the tyre shop had fitted alloy spacers on the hubs for the new mags that I bought about 3 yeas ago. I bought a set of 5 new mags, but the 5th one was still in the shed at home with no tyre fitted and I still had an original mag in the boot in the meantime). We went into an independent, Taupo Tyre shop, on the Tuesday, off Spa Road (a place with a Goodyear sign) expecting to get some credit on the faulty tyre. But they said the tyre was marked as being made in 2002 and warranties only last for 5 years. What??? I only bought that Goodyear tyre 2 years ago when I accidentally wrecked a Toyo tyre on a sharp step at a Motel in New Plymouth. Since then I went into a bit of an email battle direct with Goodyear, but without success. They offered a Beaurapaires wheel alignment voucher, but I declined that as I prefer to go to specialist wheel alignment shops that know what they are doing. I guess I should take up the issue with the Bridgestone tyre shop in New Plymouth, but I have lost interest now. But this has completely put me of ever buying another Goodyear tyre. Goodyear and Dunlop are now the same company too, so I might be put off Dunlop tyres as well - yet undecided about that one. I think I'll stick with Toyo as they are serving me well so far. Toyo were suggested to me by someone on this forum too.

Hi guys, I have an ’83 e21 323i coupe that I’ve owned for about 11-12 years. Not long after I got it it developed a brake shimmy (after a hard thrash around Manfeild) so I replaced the big bushes in the front arms and that solved the problem. A couple of years ago the shimmy was gradually returning again and I was about to take the engine out to rebuild it. I did the engine up and also put on new front discs; pads reconditioned the brake booster and sleeved the M/Cylinder, etc... Then I got it going and took it in to get the bushes replaced again because I was too lazy to do it myself at home this time, and also do the wheel alignment. The Suspension Shop that did it has a very good reputation and has been around for years. The shop owner suggested I also look replacing the shocks to tighten the ride and handling up a bit - he did the same on a 2002 he said - put in some Toyota shocks apparently and the owner was wrapped with the results. I was keen, but thought I'd want a while since I'd just spent heaps on the engine and brakes. I also enquired about putting in neoprene bushes (is that the right material that the harder bushes are made from?) but he said an emphatic “No” because the standard suspension parts would not be able to handle the shock, so I left it at that. Pretty soon after driving the car (just normally) the brake shimmy started coming back again. It returned very quick compared to the first time I did the bushes myself 10-odd years earlier, but gradually this time…no hard thrash around Manfeild. Anyone got any suggestions? The suspension guy said because the ride is so soft, the bushes work a lot harder and therefore wear out quicker, but I can’t see any reason why this happened so quick this time compared to the earlier experience. The shimmy is getting quite bad now, but the car still gets a WOF OK - I got a new one just today in fact. When I can afford it I would like to tighten the suspension up a bit. The ride is factory standard and very ‘wallary’, but I'm not looking for a lowered or hard ride. I realise there are not very many e21's out there so maybe no one here can give me much help, but any suggestions very much appreciated. Cheers Paul

Some things you only buy new, like: Engine Oil Spark Plugs Air and Oil filters Cambelts and of course, fan belts. There is a small independant 'cambelt' shop in Palmerston North I use a lot who also sell fan belts and a few other things - well-known, good quality brands at low cost. They always seem to have everything you ever need in stock too. Perhaps there is a store like this in your town, look it up the phone book. A fan belt from these guys would be way under $50. Even most cambelts cost less than $50. A cambelt for my e21 cost about $30, for example. Good luck Paul

Hi there,You can't have mine, the engine will leak oil! But seriously, you should be able to buy some nice new Stainless Steel capscrew ones from a specialist nut and bolt supplier - I did just that for my e21 cambelt cover and rocker cover. They look geat. P

Thanks all, I have sourced one now - I got three offers in fact. Paul

Thanks Simon

Thanks for the tip, Glenn. Yes, the motor failed just before Xmas and Jeff Gray managed to get it working again somehow, but they said it will fail again and that these motors do fail, as you say. But I am a bit short of cash at present so thought I might try second-hand in the meantime. I have received an offer of one on PM already. Cheers Paul

Hi there, I need a windscreen washer motor for my 540i e34 as the old one has stoppoed working. Can anyone help? Part # on the motor: 61.66-8 360614, and photos attached (I hope )... I think it costs over $100 to buy a new one from BMW. Please email me if you can help. Thanks Paul

Hi there, for an E34... I have a '94 540i. On the front panel section under the bumper there's a couple of covers (one either side of where the number plate is, or right next to the fog lamps), I think the right-hand one might cover a towing hook, but I need the left-hand one. Do you have the left-hand one to sell on its own? (The panel beaters lost mine when they took it off to repair a ding earlier this year, caused by someone else...my car was parked.) If you have it to sell, what colour is it and how much? BTW, I have been offered one already for $25 including courier to Palmerston North. I will buy that one if there's no better offers. Please PM me. Thanks Paul

Hi there, On the front panel section under the bumper there is a couple of covers, I think one of them covers a towing hook. Will you sell the left-hand one on its own? (The panel beaters lost mine when they took it off to repair a ding earlier this year, caused by someone else...my car was parked.) What colour is this car? - it might be the same colour as mine, but I can't tell for sure in the photos. Also, what is the auto trans like? How many Ks? The trans in my 540i won't change up out of 2nd (or 3rd?) from cold - takes a K or so before it starts changing properly, and it has a slight vibration which I suspect is the trans as well - I have lived with it since owning the cars 4 years ago, so not too concerned about it, but would be nice to fix it if it's not going to cost a lot. Thanks Paul

Hi there, I'd be very keen to take a look at this car, but unfortunately I am not is a position to buy another car right now because I am about to be made redundant (last day of work is 3 Dec). I will see how I get on finding another decent-paying job though, so will keep this car in mind if it is not sold in the meantime. Good luck Paul

Thanks Brent, The photo shows a different bumper to the one our car has though, because it is an after-market body kit I presume. But it has a "std bumper behind the plastic kit"? Our bumper is an 'old style' chrome one, with rubber strip insert all the way around it. Perhaps I should get a photo of it, but I can't do that quickly because it's down in Levin. Anyway, if the chrome bumper is still attached behind, then great - it'd mean it's probably in good nick being protected from the elements by the kit. Cheers Paul

Hi there, After an e28 front bumper (please see WTB forum) - must be mint. Deliver to Levin or Palmerston north. Please tel Judith or Paul on 06 355-0295 if you can help. Thanks Paul

I'm after a front bumper for an e28 - '88 525ee. You happen to have one of those as well? See WTB forum. Thanks Paul

The wife's olds have wrecked the front bumper on their very tidy 1988 525ee (e28). Anyone have one to sell, or know where we can get one? Needed in Palmerston North, or Levin. Must be in good nick. Tel: 06 355-0295 Judith or Paul, or email here. Thanks Paul

I'm amazed the cops reacted as well. You're lucky man.

My driver's seat has a bit of wear too, but no cracks and not as bad as your seats look in the pics. I'd like to get them looking like new too though, or close as possible to it. Possibly a leather paint spray, if there is such a thing. Anyway, I'd be keen to hear any good suggestions as well. P

I didn't know there was such a ting as "convertible springs"! (Sorry, I just couldn't help myself.)

My old Renault has the same problem very recently. It was because the plastic needle had bent over time, from UV damage I guess. So I took it out and sent up to Auckland to get fixed (I'm in P.North). The rev counter was the same. Cost $300 to fix them both. If the needle is OK, your fault must caused by something else though...like the cable is sticky and dry (put some oil in it) or something pulling on the outer cable which might be preventing the inner cable from properly connecting at one end or the other - that is assuming it is cable-driven and not electronic. If electronic, first check the main earth lead. I found this fault in a near new e30 many years ago. Was easy to fix. Paul

I don't know, but it would not be too hard to figure out what can be swapped over when you have both cars there. Swapping a hub over should only take you about an hour, to see if it'll work. But watch for tyres rubbing guards and things before you get too carried away. And you might even ruin the handling! Hey, perhaps you could swap the font doors over too!!! Anyway, let us know what you do do in the end, and how it all went. Paul

Nope sorry, but you could always look at the wiring in another car and trace them - as an alternative suggestion.

Yeah, but he'll need really big muscles to make use of all that extra power!

I used to rebuild Merc auto-transmissions and a common fault was that one of the clutch packs wore out pretty quick (when the cars were not all that old) and caused a slip from 3rd to 4th. Auto Trans are actually pretty easy to overhaul really. I freaked out the first time I was given one to do, but the boss had faith in me, and after I completed the job, I had full faith in myself as well... and became pretty good with them as I did more and more. Beamer trans are probably not all the different to a Merc auto. Whether that's the cause of the fault with your car though, I'd had to test drive it to tell for sure. BTW, I am no longer a mechanic - I work in IT these days. Got clean hands and more cash in my pocket now! Cheers Paul

One more to add, I got the name of the stuff and took a couple of photos of the box for you... Cheers Paul