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petone

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Posts posted by petone


  1. Your engine is significantly lighter though.

    Power to weight, Andrews will easily out perform your 318. For a 325i engined car (with a full tank of gas), Andrews is really really light.

    According to owners manual My car weighs 1010kg and a 325i is around 1200kg I think? So Andrew has done pretty well to shave off at least 100Kg with pretty minor stuff really. And I know I wont have a hope in a straight line, even my mere 60Kg weight advantage isn't enough for double the horsepower. Other reason my car is light other than engine is no electrics and no power steer (similar to andrews) Andrew what are your 0 - 100 times? just using a bodgy stopwatch method or something i just want a rough idea

    I wonder what weight I could get my car down to???


  2. Hang on, I didn't know this but there are motorsports and just sports. So the Motorsports (M325i) have the bodykit and sports suspension and nicer steering wheels etc but don't have LSD standard and have standard 325i engine. Whereas the 325i Sport (325iS) has all the goodies that 318i Turbo mentioned.

    Is the difference between 325i and 325iS similar to 318i and 318iS?

    Please correct me if I got any of this wrong. How many 325iS are there in NZ?


  3. The car as its sits now is fully legal - 100mm clearance, captive springs etc but they want cert which costs at least $300. As for the wheels I hopefully buying some 2nd hand for $500 which really pisses me off that they want $500 excess for it. I realise its cheaper to do the cert all at once but I dont have the money to do everything at once. Oh well I just suppose its my fault for being under 25 and having such a fast car.


  4. Hi all, just a moan about stupid insurance. I got 3rd party fire and theft which costs about $150 a year (I think). Anyway thats fine but I recently lowered my car and when I told NZI they said that they needed to see the certification??? I did everything fully legal so there is no reason for me to go and waste good money on cert which I don't need. Or do I? And then when I asked about fitting 17s they said excess would go up another $500? I'm not happy at all. Now I can understand about engine mods but none of this makes me go any faster its just for handling and looks? Oh BTW I'm 18, have full licence, and have been paying insurance for over a year now with no claims, also its through a broker that the olds use but its in my name. Can anybody recommend a good insurance company that wont f**k me round and has good premiums and excess (Ok, i know, insurance like that is as rare as rocking horse sh*t but you get the idea)


  5. Hi welcome to the site, I'm pretty new as well. Thats the sort of info I was after. I was think about the brembo rotors but am undecided on pads. I've got motul fluid to put in which hopefully will be good. While you only use your car for competition I use it everyday so I need something with reasonable life, still your set up is holding up well. And that was all purchased through PBMS?


  6. Means it wont be compatable with your cars ECU. The computer reads the engine speed of the flywheel, but the 323 has an older control system which doesn't have the sensors on the flywheel.

    That right???

    You might be able to take andrews one and swap certain bits over that you need.


  7. (another reason i want a manual rack)

    Haha at least my budget 318i has got some good about it. I swear I must have brought the most basic model available. My only electrics are the mirrors. I got manual steering, manual gear box, no CL, manual windows, manual sunroof, steel rims and no fog lights. Oh well, at least it should all last way longer and its lighter. Since buy the car I got bottle caps and fog lights so it aint that bad.

    Gus- you sure you want manual steering? I was going to change to power steer.


  8. Hang On, L Jetronic has adjustable ignition timing you say? And my 318i would have L Jetronic wouldn't it... Excellent - Time for timing advance (Hehehe)

    But do some 320i have L Jetronic? The reason I say this is because my mate had an import 320i that snapped all the exhaust valve roller rockers (wierd, i know) so he put a M20B25 but there were a few differences. We did this transplant ourselves so we got to know a fair bit about the cars. The 320i ignition system was much more similar to mine, you could even turn the dizzi. So maybe we can adjust bimmer boy's timing??? I dunno if he had Jetronic cos it was a euro model or what but worth having a look at adjusting timing. Carl- what control system you got?

    Also for 320 to beat 323 the 323 driver would have to be pretty shocking


  9. I hope that BMW stay with the high revving NA M cars. I haven't driven an E46 M3 but all the motoring journalists rave about the engine. And new M5 makes same power as AMG supercharged engine of same size, ok so the torque isn't the same but do they really need turbos? I think that its just something that should stay part of the BMW brand. NA is just "cool"


  10. A pod filter wont make up the difference between your cars. You could get a chip, around $600 I think? If you like you can always rip out all your interior and pull of stuff like the power steer pump and A/C pump that restrict the motor. If you got lotsa coin theres hot cams, you can stroke it, lightened flywheels, port and polish, upgrade AFM, and turbo. Theres not really any cheap mods that amek a huge difference. Good tyres and a good launch will always help as well.


  11. Dam You! Don't steal my idea

    I want an RB26DETT powered E30. Man that would be so cool. If you had a bottomless pocket you could do it : ) Sorry I haven't been much help but I'm sure it could be done, someone put a rotor in an E30. Atleast a GTR engine is a straight 6 so its sort of similar. You could also think about an SR20DET that would still go all right and would be heaps easier to fit, and lighter


  12. Found this on the net, might help

    Problem:

    The well known and dreaded E30 Trunk leaks

    Problem Description:

    Water leaking into the rear wells eg: jack storage well and battery well, one or both.

    The problem continues in spite of the usual remedies recommended and attempted:

    a) Trunk gasket - inspected and ok,

    B) rear tail light gaskets - replaced

    c) sunroof drains - clear

    d) rocker panel vents - ok

    e) trunk well vents - ok.

    Problem Source:

    Having attempted the usual remedies, water continued to be apparent in the jack well of my car [E30 -1987 325is]. I attempted to identify the particular area causing the leak by isolating the trunk, rear window, and trim pieces at various times with Hefty trash bags, masking tape and the liberal application of water via the garden hose.

    I determined that the trunk seal was not leaking, sun roof drains were not in play, and the new tail light gaskets indeed allowed no water entry to the trunk. With the entire trunk, lights, and sunroof virtually waterproof in the Hefty bag cocoon the water still managed to get into the well.

    Discounting shrink wrapping the entire car during the rainy season, the leak area was identified as coming from around the rear pop-out side window.

    Most likely suspect was mounting holes for the exterior rear chrome trim that runs from the rain gutter to the body at the rear of the pop-out window. It appeared that one or more of the attachments could be aged, damaged, or just plain not sealing.

    I ordered the new parts for the attachment of the trim panel to the body (parts for 1 side);

    Gasket3  51-13-1-904-479

    Gasket3  51-13-1-904-479

    Grommet 3 51-13-1-870-459

    Grommet 1 51-14-1-902-279

    I pulled off the chrome trim and with proper parts in hand for replacement decided on a final confirmation that I had indeed pin pointed the source.

    I taped over the trim attachment holes in the body where the new grommets would go, taped/sealed off the trunk, sunroof etc. again and applied the water.

    &^#(*-#, still leaking.

    The now only other possible source of water was the window/ window seal itself?

    The back seat, side panel trim, rear deck, trunk liner etc were all removed for inspection (yet again).

    Applying water, the leak was indeed evident from inside the car at the rear of the window. The water would drip onto the metal that forms the deck support and either run forward on the wheel well into the interior, or rearward under the trunk liner on track into the rear jack well.

    Removal of the widow gasket itself revealed that the gasket was wet in the center from an area about half-way up the rear window, down to the horizontal part of the gasket.

    The water was obviously gaining entry to the center channel of the gasket, tracking down the gasket (gravity) and the water would enter the interior where the body panels are spot welded together, between the weld points.

    As the gasket looked to be in good shape despite its age, the idea of a new replacement (43$) was discarded as the A-plan. The reasoning here, in addition to being thrifty (cheap?) is that a new gasket may have the same problem, and that the glass installers always use bedding compounds for glass and gasket work even with new gaskets. No sealer or other material was evident in the gasket channel. At the local auto body paint and supply store, I sourced a tube of 3M Automotive Bedding and Glazing Compound Part # 08509. Quoting from the tube; "A non-hardening water resistant, medium bodied product for sealing auto body seams and between windshield rubber and car body.

    Can also be used to seal around moldings and to attach door watershields. Remains permanently soft and pliable to absorb movement in auto body."

    Remedy:

    With the gasket out, apply a bead of the Bedding and Glazing around the perimeter of the gasket in the center of the gasket channel where the gasket will actually contact the body work.

    I also applied the sealer into the gaps formed at the joining of the body panels around the window before re-installing the gasket. The gasket was re-installed, window re-installed and adjusted, and the compound allowed to set up for 24 hours. Further water testing showed that my particular leak had indeed been cured.

    Result:

    It is now 12 months later and into the second rainy season on the 'fix'. No water is are has been evident since resealing the window gasket.


  13. I tried to convert them got about halfway then got stuck. I had a 4 door car as a donor vehicle and mines 2 door so that wouldn't have helped. I think that you need to swap the entire door over. Then theres the whole issue of re-wiring and fuses and all that stuff. I would say just keep it manual. Its more reliable and weighs less :)


  14. What? I thought all 325i's had a twin system all the way through? Where abouts does your's combine into the single pipe? How many 325i would be like yours? Does it still sound like a 325 with twin exhaust? Sorry bout all the questions but i'm interested in this.


  15. Talking about dodgy mods...

    My ricer just got a pod and he didn't have the right sized pipes so he got a dish cloth and wrapped it around the point where the pipes wer different and he held it on with tape. 10 min later after a short trip he opened the bonnet to find the dish cloth halfway down the intake manifold. :blink:


  16. But I got a manuel so I don't need to worry bout conversion :D

    The problem is the shocks in the front were replaced not long ago with OEM boge shocks. So while I would be keen to replace the back shocks with something more sporty I would have to make sure that they compatable with the front cos I ain't to keen on replacing new front shock so soon, if that makes sense

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