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Posts posted by Jacko
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Screw the power resistor, just found this -
http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID...mp;form=KEYWORD
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Damnit. My youtubes is broke
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i have a little bit of debt i need to pay off first. then i will be making it either look like a m3 or a csl.
Please dont
Tis what it tis, nice newish 318 BMW. Its not an M3.
Maybe some nice wheels and lower it a tad, dont turn it into euro trash
FWIW - 318's are 2 litre 4's. 320's are 2 litre or 2.2 litre 6's.
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Thinking option 2 is the go,
Tardme 16" fan single speed fan, with a .25R Resistor 80W resistor, should, according V=I/R give me around 25-30% less rpm on low speed. Something like this http://www.davebarton.com/pdf/coolingfandiagrams.pdf with the resistor jammed in the "blue" line (last diagram)
THIS is the wiring chart for an 85 323i to 91 E34 M50B25. Ian Haynes did all the hard work
He also managed to answer some questions of mine, couldnt find the answers online so Ill stick em here too.
Question number 1 -
Does engine check light output M50B25 E34 3.1 DME (Pin 8) simply provide a ground to the bulb?
My car has no ECL, but id like to install something to read the codes, and to tell me if all is well!
Im thinking I could simply install a bulb/LED, wire some juice to one side of it and run an extra wire to the C101/M50 loom
Is it that simple, or is there some electrickery in the output from the DME?
Correct, the DME simply provides a ground when it wants to illuminate the lamp.
Question number 2 -
Ive read conflicting storys about M50B25 auto DME's in manual cars.
Do I need to ground pin 65 on the the DME to tell it its in park/neutral? Or will it start and run fine without it ground?
You would never want to ground DME pin 65. This pin is connected to 12v when the auto trans selector is in park & neutral, but effectively not connected to anything when in any of the drive gears. Just leave it disconnected when you convert to manual.
Question number 3 -
Am I right in assuming that road speed, RPM, fuel consumption run through the X20 on an M50'd E36/34 to the instrument cluster, but on an E30 run directly from the M20 DME to the instrument cluster? (I recall seeing the wiring for this under my dash, but am not 100%).
On early cars (like yours), the Tacho and fuel rate signal don't go via the C101. They go via the C104 connector (3 pin connector) under the dash. Later E30's do run these signals through the C101. You can either hook into these wires close the DME under the dash (once fitted), or extend the wires from the C104 connector to the body side of the C101 and pick them up from the E34 C101 connector. I don't think the early E30's had the road speed signal going to the ECU, so you'll need to get this from the back of the cluster, or the OBC/Cruise control (if fitted).
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Both my power antennas have a power wire that goes to the battery / ignition whatever you want. Then the other wire goes to the head unit.
Just figured it out. The relay mounting bracket supplies the ground, its sneakly soldered to some of the relays terminals.
Red is +12V
Green goes to headunit.
+12V on the green wire switches the relay, antenna goes up.
OV on the green wire switches the relay back and antenna goes down
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Latest (November) Classic car is an E30/BMW Bonanza too
BMW Club article, and a couple of targa E30's on the cover.
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Found it. E32 Alpina cars VIN start with WBAP (AP - Alpina)
So neither vin is alpina, and the cars possibly dodgy.
From the Alpina aussie site -
"Alpina Bavarian Motorsport is in no way affiliated with Alpina GmbH Germany or BMW AG Germany"
So theyre not genuine alpinas anyway, but its possible its one of theirs? -
ie - http://www.alpinaaustralia.com.au/gallery/e30/alpina027.htm
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Hmmm interesting.
Ones LHD, Ones RHD.
WBAGC420X0DC15758 - VIN - 7/89 RHD
WBAGC41020DB93675 - Chassis - 9/89 LHD
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Carjam'd and realoem'd - WBAGC41020DB93675
1989 735iL - LHD Jap import, its been converted
Why do the chassis and VIN numbers not match?
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Looks like badging, wheels and an alpina steering wheel too me?
http://www.m6board.com/alpina/e32b1135.html
No build tag photo, no alpina interior, no front spoiler, no "gearknob of fine wood"
etc etc
I know if I had one, the first photo I took would be of the build tag!
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looks a bit like early e28 , e23 etc , should have something at work
Cheers man
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I wonder how many genuine Alpinas are in NZ?
I remember seeing an Blue E21 in the auckland airport carpark a few years ago. Had a yarn to the owner, car was awesome, cant even remember what model it was though.
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two of the wires going into the relay are power and earth, and will be on the loop that the wires on the other side of the relay are in. the third is the signal from the head unit.
in other words, when there is signal from the headunit, this shuts the relay and makes a continuous curcuit between 12V at the battery, through the motor for the aerial and then to earth/0V on the battery.
like this, except the motor on the aerial replaces the light bulb, and the signal from the stereo replaces the switch
http://www.radioelectronicschool.net/files...loads/relay.gif
Shouldve explained that a bit better.
Relay has two inputs Red and Green, and 3 soldered output wires to the aerial - Ground, Up and Down I guess.
So Ive only got two wires to plug in.
It must use the + output of the headunit too drive the aerial up and down, and the other wire must be ground? I guess the relay has some sorta latch and is only used to control stopping, starting and reversing the motor in a cycle.
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Weird.
Alpina bits on a M325? I want that gauge/vent thing bad
Why would an Alpina have a tech2 kit, no alpina gauge cluster, no leather, no alpina seats, boot badge stuck on engine, and 325i badges...
Genuine
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Yup, same thing. BMW "approved" tuner.
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Interesting badging, I wonder what other MK bits other than the badge/stickers it has.
Sideskirts?
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Im after the engine side of a C101 loom plug, off a pre 85 E30 M20 if anyone has one (rectangle plug)
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Picked me up a new power aerial for the E30. Bit confused, its probably simple though.
The original (aftermarket motogard) aerial has two wires, red and black. They were reversed at a connector though, red-black black-red. Aerial has never worked when ive owned it. Playing with a multimeter shows that red is earth (explains the reversed wiring...) and black seems to be dead whatever happens.
New aerial has 3 orange wires too a relay, then a red and green wire. Tried plugging red-black green-red, nudda.
Can someone point me too a generic wiring diagram for a 2 wire power antenna? I assume the red wire should go to the headunits power aerial output, and the green too ground? The relay is some sorta reversing thing? maybe current sensing and then reverses?
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Visited HellBM. Got bits. Threw bits into collection (pile) of old BMW bits.
Washed crud out of boot/bonnet/door frames. Managed to clean inside of boot/bonnet/interior all with one swoop of the hose.... Woops... good thing its sunny.
Pulled out all blown dash bulbs. Drove to supercheap to find new ones. Discovered Supercheap only stock stink bulbs. Drove to Repco. Installed dash bulbs. Christmas Tree FTW!
Pulled out bent/smashed/rusty aerial. Stuck multi meter on wiring. Discovered Red is ground, Black is ACC. Scratched head. Placed in the cant be f'd sorting this now basket.
Fixed Digital clock! Woohoo!
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From what ive read while researching M5x's is that the 323's engine is choked up so as not too make it faster than a 325/328. Cant have lesser models being quicker.
With a decent exhaust (incl manifold) and intake manifold, add a dyno tune in theory it should be able to woop a stock M50B25/M52B28
Dont have any personal experience with it, just information gleemed from reading lots
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Hell yes, its more worthy than the the last year of nz performance car cover cars added up.
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Im gonna be ordering a set this weekend, sorry dubman need them in my hands before December
But I wont need the sway bar bushes (e30), so if anyone wants a set of sway bar bushes (sport 90 ShA) lemme know what diameter you want, before I order, and you can have em for $50.
Ill let ya know the shipping time (EMS) too
E30 Mtech 1 323 Birthday.
in Projects
Posted · Edited by Jacko · Report reply
Starting current may blow it maybe, running it shouldnt (most 16" to draw around 10-13A) . I wonder if the softstart will be enough to tame it...