jom

I've got the same problem. But for a 328. I think they both share the same radiator

http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=31193

I still haven't made a decision

I got a new, assembled rad from Abel Smith Radiators in Wellington for about $380. It works.

BBS, if you look at the dyno curves for both manifolds on the same graph you will note that at 3,000 RPM for example the M52 produces more power (it does this from idle right through to about 5,000 RPM) than the M50 manifold on the same engine.

So if we had two cars one stock and one with an M50 manifold condition and we accelerated from 3,000 RPM in 4th gear the M52 make more power so it will accelerate faster, when the M52 starts running out of power the M50 will catch up because it will continue to make power.

The M50 could keep up if it were 10% or so lower geared but then it would run out at the same time and just use MORE fuel so whats the point??

In short the M52 is an improvement on the M50 it makes more mid range useable power

Fitting and M50 manifold reintroduces the FAILINGS of the M50 - it was a soggy gutless engine that needed to be thrashed to give half decent performance.

My 1750 Alfa used to eat 325's for breakfast - more grunt more acceleration more top speed

So what happens if you fit an M52 manifold onto an M50 325i?

As it happened....

1. Your car sounds like you have blown some exhaust baffles. (In the words of someone following me at Manfield, "it sounds like you're dragging something along the ground")

2. It sounds like a V8 on even minor throttle openings. Think that you have main bearing problems?

3. After accelerating hard and backing off (overtaking etc.) the revs refuse to die for a second or two. Yes, this is embarassing.

4. Large puddles of trans fluid under the car.

All this has taken about 6 months to eventuate....

You need at least a new torque converter, it maybe time for a new (used) box or even a manual conversion!

Jo

PS I have a replacement Jatco box now, and the car is fast, quiet, and smooth. Happy again.

For an E36 323i forget the inlet filter, go for the M50 manifold conversion. Lots of posts on it, either use the multi hose clip version (cheap), or go for the Turner Motorsports conversion.

That is if you want more power rather than more noise.....

Jo

Hi all,

So after the downpour at the weekend I have notice that there is water in the area of the boot where the cd changer is mounted. Car is a 96 e36 coupe with sunroof. Have searched around but everyone else seems to have issues around the firewall.

Are there sunroof drains that go to the rear?

The boot lid seal seems ok and the car was parked facing up hill so should have drained away from boot seal ok anyway.

Any ideas appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

I had a problem like this on a Honda Accord, and it drove me nuts. I eventually realised the petrol filler aperture had been repaired without a sealant between it and the rear wing, and it only leaked when the water ran directly over it (parked at an angle, or at 100kph!). Worth a look.

Jo

From experience....

After removing the fuel rail (amongst lots of other things) on my 328, when I had carefully marked which fuel line went to which pipe on the rail:

I plugged them back in. Note that without a lift (access from underneath), assembling from the top, with the fuel rail already bolted down....you can't see what you're doing.

So the marking that were so carefully applied are invisible.

Added to that, when your arm has been inserted in the too small space under the manifold so you can at least (painfully) feel the fuel hoses and the rail pipes, you get to the point where any hose on any pipe is a win.

Beware! Although the connections are identical, have no markings whatsoever, and no difference in length etc., it DOES MATTER which one goes where.

If you get it wrong there is no fuel pressure. No fuel pressure means no nice noise. In my case this turned my previously lovely E36 coupe into a very expensive garden ornament.

Thanks to Dion the towie and Mike the mechanic for getting it going again.

PS, I read the manuals, searched the web, and no-one said it mattered. Hopefully if you are searching too, you'll find this and learn....

Jo

Problem is that we don't have a BMW dealer as such in Taupo and I had my car in to a service centre today (who have a BMW mechanic) for a second opinion on what needs doing on it and they said they couldn't find a pollen filter. They said they couldn't find any "housing" for one. So they told me it doesn't have a pollen filter and I'm really confused! Do all BMW's have a pollen filter?

Remove the panel above the drivers footwell, and feel in the forward centre of the car for a knob that's about 30mm diameter (near the firewall). Turn it counterclockwise, a cover about 100mm x 20 mm should fall off. The pollen filter has a tab on which you pull, it bends into sections so you can worm it out. Snap the new one so it hinges and work it into the housing. It takes 15 minutes to replace once you know how to do it.....

Jo

Thanks guys

The oil has been replaced regularly (last time about 6 months ago), and the computer reset, so it's probably on it's way out. I don't have any other problems, no jerks etc, it's a real sweetie otherwise...

As it's OK on left handers (pulls like a train) and the oil level shouldn't be low (no leaks) I'm assuming that it's a valving problem that can't take the g level - in one direction only. Higgins is a banked corner, so it can load up the suspension a bit.

Cheers

Jo

Has anyone else come across this problem?

At Manfield yesterday, my 328 E36 was accelerating fine out of left handers, (e.g the hairpin) but on high g right handers, especially Higgins, it's short shifting from 2nd to 3rd at about 4,800 rpm. Normally it will run to 6,600rpm before a change, when it's in sport mode. I can stop it doing it, but I have to take a really slow line...

Any ideas?

Cheers

Jo

Was it a BMW scan tool (GT1) ??? because some of the aftermarket scanners wont pick up camshaft & crankshaft sensor faults. The other thing too... did the guy have a brain and check live data as well ??

Jeff Gray BMW. I sure hope they have a brain, if not there's a direct link from the diag tool to one in Germany.....

Yes and so do crankshaft position sensors...... but he said it wouldnt crank over as well

Thanks for the replies, guys. I got it hooked up to diagnostics, and absolutely no fault found.

I did discover that when you're at the head of a queue of traffic that's honking at you it's difficult to remember to put it into park.....so that was the unable to crank problem solved (stupidity!)

Still don't know why it stopped though.

Jo

So there I was waiting for the lights to change and the engine stopped. Tried to restart, I had dash lights but no cranking.

As I was at the front of the queue, some helpful people pushed it around the corner into a parking space. I tried it again - and it started!

I suspect that I need to threaten a relay with replacement...

Anybody know offhand what the problem is?

Details - 97 328i coupe, auto box, Imported.

Cheers

Jo

Just checked my OE mounts which were replaced with M3 ones- they do not "rock" - came out of thecar at 70,000 km - make me an offer if you want them

Thanks for looking! Mine don't rock off the strut either - it's only when they are mounted to the strut that they move. I've refitted the mounts with the new Koni struts and springs and they seem OK - I'd just like to try a new one....

PS boy do the Konis improve turn in and grip.....

Still waiting for the rear shock mounts to arrive from BMW Auckland. I'm using E46 M3 parts, not bothered about the Z3 strengthening plates at the moment as they are ex-Germany.

Jo

The Konis have just arrived so I've stripped off the old struts.

The top mount bearings don't have any side to side movement., and they spin OK, but they do rock about 2mm. Is this normal, or do I need new bearings?

The rubber looks perfect, no cracks.

Thanks!

Jo

The DICE unit plugs into the CD changer cables...you'd need a multi-pole switch to change over and maybe need to reboot the radio (= disconnect battery) to get the radio to recognise the DICE unit.

Installing the DICE is easy, provided you have a BMW radio, and don't mind losing your CD changer.

If you want one, I have an unused one in Wellington....PM me if you want any more info or want to trade.

Jo

Dion Cains has moved around the corner as Fast Lane Tyres - he can balance, but still takes the car to what was Taranaki St. tyres for alignment.

Must have been all that driving on wet grass that put it out !

Jo, have you tried the US? Would think that you'd get a better deal there than the UK.

Tried Turners, but otherwise it's difficult to find sources for Koni in the US. Any Ideas?

Plus 12.5% GST on import is $1395 plus install and alignment - done properly that should come in at about $1,600:00

Which is more than I paid locally and I have full support from Stocks

I called Stocks and got a very indifferent response - $1508 +GST for the dampers only, no springs.

So for me Demon Tweeks is still $250 odd cheaper, and I get a set of springs too.....

Unused DICE Ipod converter, bought for E36 but will suit

3 series 96-03 (not Ti), 5 series 97-03, 7 series ? -03

X3 04-07, X5 00-08,

Z3 96-02, Z4 00-07

M roadster 99-07, M-Coupe 99-07

M3 96-06

M5 00-03

Z8 00-03

It plugs into the CD changer cables in the boot. Enough cable to get the unit behind the dash (they are long...)

Note that you MUST have a BMW Business or Professional sound system without SatNav. I have a BMW supplied VDO head unit and it won't work with it - hence the sale. (It does do everything that it's supposed to , except get recognised by the head unit which will only work with VDO CD changers)

Price $175.

Jo 021 243 5009

Whatever you do don't buy Gur pads. Some clown had fitted them to my 328 during compliance.

They don't stop the car, they need warming up, and they wear the disc extremely fast. In the WET at Manfield they wouldn't even engage the ABS.

Recognition - white painted backs with GUR on them and made in India. Nuff said?

Jo

PS I use OEM and wash the wheels a lot. They work.

Price from Demon Tweeks for the full Koni Kit is GBP398 + GBP102 to ship. Approximately NZD1,265.

Jo

I'm currently running a Sachs suspension kit on my E36 Coupe (50 front, 30 rear) and it needs replacing (worn strut). I'd like to raise the front a little to avoid grounding on speedbumps etc, and also so that I can fit a crossbrace.

The current handling is terrific, and I want to keep it that way, but maybe a bit softer on the back for ride comfort.

I'm slowly working through all the suspension packages, and the choice has narrowed to H + R springs (40/40) and B8 Bilsteins, or a Koni suspension kit which includes Koni springs (also 40/40, and with adjustable front rebound on the dampers).

I'm looking at Bilstein B8s because of the lower springs - they have a shorter shaft. Are there problems with B6s with this setup? (B8s not in stock in NZ at the moment!)

The prices are about the same - with the Koni kit sourced from the UK a little cheaper......(and that includes horrendous shipping)

Use is road and occasional track days.

Any experience with either setup (or better?) out there?

Cheers

Jo