jom

E36 pump has a plug, not spade terminals. Got one from Milland for $46.

Or these guys, used to be next to Road and Track in the Hutt

http://totalbodyshop.co.nz/

The forum won't allow comprehensible data like a .png file.

Sorry, I don't want to copy the entire Consumer report. I was merely trying to point to some actual data rather than hearsay and rants.

'Consumer" couldn't do an objective tyre test because they don't have the facilities, resources or expertise, they are no better than the totally subjective "consumer based surveys. Which are just subjective rubbish.

" nine out of 10 consumers liked their henkels bier worst flaccid under cooked and drowned in ketchup and in a stale bun"

Not only that some of their criteria are typically meaningless and totally skew the results. Having price as one of the criteria is the worst offender.

noise and comfort are nest on the list.

An objective test does specific performance assessment preferably in a blind test scenario and then adds commentary on noise comfort etc in the summary take a look at the tire rack tests as an example.

Well they measured this data somewhere....

Average stopping distance - 205/55 R16 Speed Shortest distance (m) Longest distance (m) Difference (m) Dry braking 50km/h 9.54 - Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin RE002 10.65 - Michelin Energy XM2 1.17 80km/h 23.47m - Achilles ATR Sport 27.03 - Nexen Classe Premiere CP661a 3.55 Wet braking 50km/h 13.65 - GT Radial Champiro BAX2 17.62m - Kumho KH27 3.98 80km/h 34.04 - GT Radial Champiro BAX2 Nexen Classe Premiere CP661a 7.91

Consumer have just done a test on these tyres (205/60R16). The Champiro came out at 80% against the Bridgestone Turanza ER300 at 82%.

Best at 85% was the Maxxis Asymmet M35 (205/55R16).

If you're stuck with the Champiros they don't sound too bad - and have better wet braking than the Bridgestones.

I have a set of Koni springs from a 328. Very stiff rears so ideal for a touring...

Looking for $150

Autoglym is a low-end budget product in the UK. There are much better polish and wax products available as previously mentioned.

Most wash products in my view do a similar job. It is the effort that goes into polishing that makes the difference.

Aston Martin use that low-end budget product for their show cars!

I clay bar and re-Autoglym my 97 328i about every 2 years (yea, lazy) and it looks good and glossy for the whole time. Mind you it is under cover night and day....which makes a big difference, no UV, no dust, wind blown salt etc.

Yeah, its no Mk5, but its not terrible.

I did a 0-100 test in it, seems to be 7.5 - 7.8 seconds.

(this was before i cleaned the throttle body and MAF.)

As far as I can tell the only modification is a Remus catback exhaust (not loud at all).

My E39's is about the same, as is my Mk3 Golf VR6's

I'm going to change the cambelt, waterpump etc next week, diagnose an issue the car has when its fully warmed up (Popping/backfiring on deceleration) which will likely be a Vac leak or Temp sensor etc.

Once I know all is well with it, I am going to install a K03S or K04 turbo with a remapped ECU, for about 200-210hp. (Stock its only 150hp)

If it's popping /backfiring pull the mechanical fuel pump and check that the cam bucket isn't worn through.

If it's the 36mm socket, I couldn't find one in NZ and got a 3/8" drive shallow socket off e*ay for about $26

Rubbing: BMW dealers kept a stock of rack limiters for E36's on 17" wheels as some would rub.

My (1997) door plate shows:

The only 17" tyres it shows are the staggers - 7.5" front, 8.5" rear. So it would appear that a 225/45/17 is correct for an E36.

And with ALL the 4 cylinder VW/Audi/Skoda engines - Check the high pressure fuel pump cam bucket every oil service unless you want a $1500 (or more) experience.

God knows why they perpetuate a bad design, or maybe the bean counters do....

Having seen the 728 on the forum with a tiptronic gearbox, has anyone fitted one to a 328 E36? What do you need to swap? - I presume that the gearbox electronics will need changing, for a start....

Have a set of Koni Road/Race springs spare. PM me if interested and I'll dig out the ride heights.

"You only need to lead the last lap" How old is that? Brabham?

I deliberately set them lower than the Re001s, too. The fronts are also crowning a little at 31psi.

I've just put a new pair of PS3s (245/40/17) on the back of my E36. The previous pair have lasted about 28,000km. Run at 33psi the tread depth was 3mm outside, 0.7mm centre and 2mm inside. So a bit overpressured.

Why not just swap run flt Michelins for normal? The ride is much better than Re002s, and there's no downside.

Mike Wallis at Porirua City European looks after my E36. Ace bloke.

Some time ago (when the $ wasn't so good) I got a set of E36 adjustables with springs from Demon Tweeks in the UK for $1250 all up, and air freight too. Worth a look.

From Dictionary.com:

verb (used with object)

Dreadful. built for drainage, and sometimes not even that.

The big difference in country roads between here and the UK is when you have an accident. In the UK you go through a hedge and wreck the car, here you will probably not survive.

If you want to see proper roads in a country with low population density, go to France - the Autoroutes are superb.

And - I watched the M25 being built in the UK - there's about 3m of coarse tarmac before the top seal is put on in some areas. On our SH system we're lucky if we get 1m.

Road repairs are like Jason said - cheap. Sometimes there are more bumps after the repair than before.

Visitors are amazed at the white painted wooden fences that we use to separate the road from a sheer drop. I've tried to convince them that the white paint makes the fence stronger, but it's a hard ask... (and this is not on rural roads - try SH2 over the Rimutakas)

We desperately need a 4 lane divided highway between Wellington and Auckland, with a sensible speed limit, 120/130km/h in rural areas? I guess before that happens, we'll have to teach the driving population to keep left...

Rant over.

Jo

I have PS3s in that size - they replaced Bridgstone Re001s. Same or better grip, and a much more comfortable ride. Cost about $1150 for the set.

With standard motorsport springs on a 328 Coupe (17' rims) I get 582/575 front (L/R), 557/553 rear. I'd suggest that that's as low as you'd want to go at the front if you want to keep the centre undertray - otherwise you'll lose it over speed bumps.

As some of the parts are identical and any E36 that has replaced items like rear shock mounts would now be using items made during the E46 generation - the argument of lesser quality lacks logic.

Didn't I say that the stiffer chassis may be the cause?

Anyway, anecdotal evidence (from my mechanic) is that E46 parts that are the same as E36 parts wear out in fewer kms. Go figure.

and ignore the comment about value engineering E46 chassis is very similar to E36, body shell is stiffer so benefits from good tyres and shocks.

That must be why the bushes seem to wear out faster. Not a joke, E46 suspension parts seem to need earlier replacement than similar E36 bits. That could well be down to the stiffer chassis.

Can't speak for the E46, but those size staggers on an E36 with standard motorsport springs, koni sports (adjustables) and Michelin PS3s are fine. As far as i can see the E46 suspension is the same as the E36 but has been "value-engineered" (i.e. it wears out faster)

Jo