callumb

New BMW Customer Assurance Booklet PDF https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zYEBx7-TfHDo1Xbm6MY602YlUN9FffBZ/view?usp=sharing

I have emailed and FB messaged BMW NZ. Called AKL City BMW who didn't know and said they'd email them to me - that was yesterday. And just now emailed sales at continental where I bought the car. It's the first car I've owned that's covered by a manufacturers warranty - seems important to know what my options/obligations are for servicing?! You'd think that sort of information would be readily available.. apparently not.

Hi, I've recently upgraded to a 2017 3 series. I'm wondering what my options are for where it can be serviced that will comply with the manufacturers warranty. Does anyone have a definitive answer or better still the actual terms and conditions of the manufacturers warranty? (which doesn't appear to be online) Cheers Callum

Hi, I'm looking for recommendations on who to contact re upgrading the exhaust on my 09 335i sedan. I've been looking for a while and there's not a lot that comes up when googling that doesn't seem overly expensive eg. SuperSprint / Borla being 3-5k. I've read about the mod that can be done to existing mufflers which isn't really my thing. Who are the go to people for this kind of thing? I'm in AKL. Cheers

Sorted now. They order me an "enable code" and I pay $270incl. It can stay outdated for that price. Cheers

Hi, Does anyone know how to go about getting this done? TM takapuna mentioned I have a DVD model yet I don't have a slot for a DVD so not sure how that's going to work - the car is NZ new and originally purchased from JC so you'd think they'd know? Currently waiting on service/parts to get back to me - been waiting a week now, called them again this morning and still no answers. Cheers Callum

Hi, Wondering if there's anyone local that sells these? I'm in Auckland. Cheers

Yes.. whoops!

Thanks for the advice guys. Putting in Caltex Castrol Edge 5w30 A3/B4 (ie. what repco sells) which is what I've been using on my 06 330i. The main reason I was asking is when I looked through the service history I noticed Burgers used a Castrol Edge Professional oil.

Previous page just says contact BMW to find out.. ie. hopefully fear and uncertainty will lead to the owner paying triple for "BMW oil".

Hi, I recently acquired a fairly low mileage (40,000km) NZ NEW 335i and I'm wondering what engine oil to put in it. Castrol EDGE Professional E 0W-30 has been used in previous services which isn't available to Joe blog. The Castrol Oil finder application lists these as suitable: EDGE Professional E 0W-30 EDGE 0W-40 A3/B4 EDGE 5W-40 Your thoughts? Cheers Callum

The problem has finally been fixed - by cleaning the vanos solenoids. I recently took the car to Steve at Milford Auto Electrical - who by the way is excellent to deal with. He said in my case there were no codes that related to the solenoids but other codes did steer him towards the solenoids - although I suspect what really happened is he chucked in a couple of working solenoids to confirm it was the problem because when he called mine were already in the sonic cleaner and he was quite confident that cleaning the solenoids would fix the problem. Either way.. if you have a problem like this I suggest you first clean the vanos solenoids. It's cheap to get them cleaned and they are easy to get in and out. For what its worth I replaced the coils, plugs and maf sensor before taking it to Milford Auto electrical. Cheers Callum

I'm interested if you've still got them. Pretty sure we actually know each other. I'm Theo's mate Callum (from Auckland). About a month ago I bought exactly the same model as Gab's car. 98 323M.

Hi Ron. I like the sound of your steering setup. I've just replaced all the shocks on my 323M and am about (well once I put the front struts back in tonight) to take it for an alignment at Wairau Alignment & Suspension. I talked to Merv down there about improving the responsiveness a little he said he can shim it in such a way that will produce 1 deg of neg. Do you think that is too much? Its not a track car but I feel the steering could do with being a little more responsive, especially on the open road (it currently understeers). Btw. I have stock M Technic springs.

Aha!! Thanks Glenn.. If you have a working key you will want to do the procedure (as described by Glenn) with the WORKING key first. Once you get to step 9. (with the working fob) the doors should lock then unlock, at this point you need to repeat steps 4-9 for the non working key. This worked for me! Note: This proceedure changes the rolling code which means you must repeat steps 4-9 immediately with any additional fobs if you want them to work with the new code. Only thing I would mention is the first time I attempted this (with the working key) it didn't work on step 9. and afterwards my working key no longer worked. But after cursing loudly I tried the procedure again and it all worked as described. Glenn also suggested that before starting the procedure it might pay to start the car and turn it off again. I did this as well. Thanks again!

Still no success.. bloody thing! Thanks anyway and will give you a call.

Thanks Glenn but still no joy on step 9. The led flashes as you described in step 8. but when I hit 'unlock' the led stops flashing and no locking or unlocking occurs. Perhaps the fob is somehow faulty. I have a second working fob so I know the receiver in the mirror is working fine.

Hi Greg. Thanks for replying.. Your instructions worked up until the last step - ie. pressing the lock button didn't lock then unlock the doors. After I held the unlock button and pressed lock 3 times the led did in fact start flashing (its the first time any proceedure has worked at all so was getting quite excited), but when I press the lock button after that nothing happened. And yeah I aimed the key right at the rear view mirror. I tried it a few times. Can you recall if there's perhaps another step?

I have a 1998 323iM coupe. I have tried the instructions below a few times without success. The instructions seem great but aren't 100% clear, for example.. 1. When cycling to almost start should I be using the fob I'm trying to sync or a working fob, does it matter which? 2. Do I take the key out of the ignition after cycling the 5 times. 3. I presume if the car is already unlocked with the doors shut you can start from step 3.? Does anyone know what the trick is? (I've attached a pic of my remote fob) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Preperation 1. Close all doors,trunk,and hood. 2. The security system must be in disarm mode and key must be removed from the ignition key slot. Enter Code learning mode 3.Open trunk and leave it opened. 4. open the driver's door and sit in the driver's seat 5. Close the driver's door. 6. Cycle ignition switch 5 times between Off and On (DO NOT START ENGINE) The red status light will illuminate continuously, and the siren will chirp once to indicate that the code learning mode has been initiated. The ignition switch cycling must be performed within 10 seconds. The sequence in steps 1-6 must be performed within 45 seconds. Register/Delete ID Code(s) 7. Open driver's door (remain seated in driver's seat) 8. Close driver's door 9. Press and relase any button on the remote you wish to register into the system. The status led will shut off momentarily to indicate that one id code has been registered. 10. Repeat steps 7 to 9 to register the remain the ID codes. Exiting code learning mode 11. Open driver's door and exit vehicle, leaving the door open. 12. Close trunk. 13. Close dirver's door. The LED will turn off and the siren will chirp once twice. 14. The initializaiton procedure is now completed; test all remotes to confirm operation. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Have updated the attached picture to be of my actual key rather than a pic I found on the web (which after looking closely was a little bit different)

The differential housing is part of the main cross member, so by the looks of it you'd have to undo all the bolts holding the differential to it, there is also a small cylinder thing on the right hand side of the diff/housing looks like a reservoir? I'm thinking I need to detach that as well..? Here are some pics - as you can see I've removed most of the bolts already - there is one on top (right front) of the housing which is a real pain to undo, have only managed to turn it about 3 times - arkward to get at - you have to weave your arm through the fuel filter assembly to get to it.

Cheers for the advice. I have all the parts, just lacking the know how, I don't imagine its particularly difficult when you know how! If I don't get much of a response I'll just keep unwinding bolts.. Will take some pics under when I'm under the car next.. its pretty messy under there!

Hi all, Have a few repairs to make to this baby, hoping someone out there knows more about how to do it than me

1979 635csi Can anybody out there please give me some quick tips on how to lower the diff enough to replace the differential mount? (After spending 2 hours trying to undo 1 bolt I figure its time to ask for help. I don't have a service manual for it) The Diff has a surround which looks to be attached to the car somehow, from what I can tell its attached by 2 bolts either side and 4 on top, most of which I've loosened. I have this feeling I didn't need to do that? thanks