edhardley

I had a similar problem on a staker in a merc, guessing it's similar- just open it up (be slow when pulling it apart), and see whats stopping it, should be some DIY's out there as it must be common problem. good luck.

hahaha yes it does: 'RMS Power at 2 ohms 2200W x 1' thats specs from the factory. I'm not trying to get any last words in or whatever your saying, I'm realy not as concerned with this as your essay above suggests you might be. I just find it frustrating and funy how your so pig headed and can't accept you were wrong. This amp simply has 3000 watt RMS peak power rating (.. at phm) ring/ email boss if you have to. Whether or not its a good amp is debatable and I accept your views on boss,they may have a bad name but this was the best amp they ever produced and IMO from using it, aswell as other more quality brands is a very good amp. Finally it seems ironic you tell me to drop the presonal insult... As you did start them yourself in the last post (see bottom... 'dad'.. 'rock'?? sound familiar. My age is an excuse but your old, you should have more maturity mate. Anway this is never going to end, so go on.. I won't reply...you have the last words.

BAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA, you need to get a life... I know its a sunday but that must have takin an old man like you a while to think up. Very good you did some research... and prooved my point that some people 'rave' about this amp. BTW even tho your too old for this stuff, let me teach you a little about heat sinks... there not heavy... heavy metal= dense= heat retained longer, so no 3000w RMS at 7kg is fine. Also yes I did say RMS because it is... if at 2ohm it pushes 2200 RMS then its not a surprising figure??? do that maths its basic fractions... you should go back to school. And finaly I'm not under a rock, (I'll stop with anologies if you stop with old coloquialisms), and since when were 40 year olds into subs- mid life crisis? still driven old cars?? yea, mayby you should look at yourself before judgin me on my age... Yes I'm a student if you had to know. Anyways You put your $2 in, thats just my 2c. Catchya

Yea agreed, a piece of paper with some numbers only means so much, hp definatly doesn't always equate to speed/ acceleration, there are lots of things one can do that will make a car quicker but wont change horsepower one bit. You have to drive it/ take on other similar cars to see the results. But there cool for bragging rights, and like a certificate for all the hard work you done.

I have the shift lever out of my 328i. This shifter acts as a short-shifter for any e36 other than the 328i/m3 (that came with a shorter throw shift). I upgraded to an even shorter shifter so it's available. If you read around it is common to use the shifter out of a 328i/m3 as a short shifter- as its genuine BMW, fits well and gives a 30% decrease in throw. In great condition (comes with bearing/ bushing, could use your existing one), not that a shift lever can realy be in bad condition... Easy install, lost of DIY's around, took me about an hour to put my new one in, just need to jack front of car up- or get your pro to do it should only be half an hours work. If you have a manual e36, you should get a short-shift (easy upgrade, and the beemers do seem to have a long throw). $50.00 PM me.

+1, +1, +1, finally. Yes I've done the swop and I believe it's worth it (yea may be slightly biased) but seriously. Alot of people do a quick google search and see 'low end torque lost' then quickly come onto other forums and spread their wealth of knowlege. You have to have done it, or been in a car that has had the mod before you comment... (you do loose minimal low end torque, but the gain up high is way beyond what you loose, and with a remap most people gain any loss in torque, and upper end even goes more crazy). It pulls alot harder past 3500 revs, almost like the effect of a turbo (not quite but just that late pull). Only good for a manual tho, complete waste of time for an auto, the standard manifold would be better in an auto. Also on the cams note, if your going to do cams, you might aswell drop your tools and go buy an m3, cos without some major strengthening, new springs and a few other bits and pieces while you've got it apart your engine isn't going to last long. The best mod list (least money, biggest gains both power and handling, without killing your engine) = m50 manifold (+boared TB and T/C delete), CIA (I mean COLD AIR not metal piped pod filter in the middle of the engine), remap, 3.23 or 3.46 LSD if you got it in you. Now if you know a few people/ can do some things yourself, your looking at just over 2k, your also looking at taking on those 3L m3's (It's a risky call, but take out those subs, your spare tyre, and some heavy sound deadining material in the boot, and no doubt it'll be close). If you also did do the m3 cams properly and had it remaped completely then you could join the guys that have done it elsewhere, think theres a few on bimmerforums and are beating m3's. m3 exhaust= waste of time... 328i exhaust is almost the same performance wise, very non restrictive, all your going to get from and m3 exhaust is slightly larger diametre pipes giving a very slight deeper sound. Along with the mods above because of increased airflow you may gain a couple of hp with one. Anyway thats just my views, this topic always comes up, as there is alot of performance to be gained with the 328 e36/ m52/b28 engine. The above is prety much my mods list, Not quite finished but when I am I'll have some dynos to show for it.

Can blow them up to

'Ive never spent a cent on Boss, so my statement isn't really that valid.' Quoted for reference ***space held*** (cool)

Unfortunatly I cant say how s***** you are, but seriously you need to keep your immature unexperienced views to yourself. I'm guessing I, and the guy who wrote that review have a little more experiece than you in car audio (looking at you chicks car, I'm guessing xplode and fusion are your thing? lolololol). I'm sorry I had to burst your bubble... yes you got the wrong model number... and yes you got the wrong wattage, I didn't want to make you look like an idiot but too bad. lolololol.

BOSS R3000 RIOT Series class D Remote Subwoofer Level Control Line out (for system building) Variable low pass crossover: 50Hz - 250 Hz @ 24 dB/octave Variable subsonic filter: 10Hz-40Hz @24 dB/octave Phase switch Peak Power at 1 ohms 3000W (RMS) x 1 RMS Power at 4 ohms 1200W x 1 RMS Power at 2 ohms 2200W x 1 Frequency Response 20-300Hz S/N Ratio >100dB Dimensions: 11 3/4" x 2 3/16" x 15 3/8" Full Sonic Electronix Warranty Product Summary Manufacturer: Boss Model number: R3000D Weight: 16.00 lbs Internal SKU: r3000d Internal Product ID: 223 Now for Somone elses EXPERIENCED view (OVERSEAS FORUM): Posted on Thursday, July 10, 2003 - 07:50 pm: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- i have a boss R-3000D. And let me tell you. It kicks butt. I have it hooked up to two alpine type r 10 inch subs. The bass is clean, tight, and accurate. Im a total audiophile and i can tell you that this amp is the best band for you buck. It may be a little rough around the edges but overall you cant buy another amp with that high of a THD and rms wattage around. It's like a corvette Z06. Brutal, fast, and handles like a champ. However some people like to spend twice as much and get a NSX will go the same speeds but cost twice as much. So its a good amp in my opinion, i myself used to own an audiobahn alum12 hooked up to a sony amp. This set up is the bomb . All my friends like my set up due to the clean loud bass. Thats the most honest one I could find, If you want others get them yourself. I hope this puts you noobs to rest... yes it is RMS, and yes it is a very good amp, I really can't be bothered teaching you stuff you can go find yourself. Thats my last words finished here.

Look mate, you have your opinions, but the thing is you havn't used this amp... obviously, so your talking from a very general and unexperienced (in this case...) view. I'll give it to you, BOSS do have some crap stuff, but so do the good brands, So please don't tell me my amp, which I used to power two competition subs for a couple of years, and were more than happy with the result, are s**t. You may have had a bad experience with them, or you may just be paraphrasing what every other sheep out there says, but as you ironically say... I'm entitled to my opinion, so lets leave it that ey.

Specifically hot wire- MAF, its less restrictive than some of the older AFM, supposedly a few horses/ throtle response to be gained- espically when you done other mods and have it remapped. Thanks whoever just confirmed its a wire... I thought that might be the case, which is great and will just leave it.

You obviously havn't owned one, or had the experience I've had, yea in general alot of people say similar stuff, but its the best amp I've ever had... in saying that I havn't tried any other boss ones and this is supposed to be their best. Not to kill the analogy but just like Nissan generaly makes cheap cars, they do make the GT-R.. my boss is the GT-R of its brand. Anyways each to their own.

I heard somone say MAF. Anway does anyone Know if an 328 (e36 97) has a MAF, or just the standard AFM?? cheers.

Looking for the front lip (plastic/ rubber like strip) that attatches to the bottom of the sport/ m3 bumper.

It's your computer/ setting, not the bimmersport sight.

Yea fair enough, I meant best quality BOSS, sure there are better ones out their for 3 times the price but not much more to offer. And Huddyboy shush you name changer.

Yes I'm very familiar with rms vs 'peak'... its a pity you got the wrong model number, so no not pawnd?? As asked, it use to run my dual premier competition subs, along with a capacitor to keep enough power supply I still wasn't fully using the available 3000watts. Talk to anyone whos actually had one theyl tell you they are simply awsom. In general BOSS make some average stuff.... so do Nissan but they made the GT-R...

Thanks, I'll give them a go to. See what prices are like.

ahhh what are you talking about haha

finally some hope, will contact them tomorrow.cheers for that

Don't know what your laughing at, you obviously don't no much bout car audio if your 'loling', the best amp iv'e ever run...

I got a boss amp: One of the highest quality ones you can find, D class mono-block (cost me over a grand), at highest puts out 3000watts (rms) at 1 ohm. Used it for a couple of years but not lately, use to run 2 premier competition subs, and more recently a 10inch R-type... using this amp will get you the best out of whatever equipement you got, would av thought my ten inch was a couple of 12's. Mint cond. eletricaly and appearence wise. Looking for $600. If your interested pm me.

Lol just did a swap for my bimmer! jokes. Its my pops old one- just need those parts to get it looking mint.

Hey there, I have a 95 e320 (old school large square headlight- facelift model), and am looking for some used front and back bumpers and front grill. Have looked/ rang around but seem hard to come across, and for all the above new from Coutts I would be looking at not far from 3k. Anyone know know where I can find these parts, or have a try? any reccomendations would be great. cheers