edhardley

[edit] We dont appreciate xenophobic comments on Bimmersport, keep those opinions to yourself. Learn what xenophobia is before using such a big word... relating something negative with a culture or race isn't xenophobia... having an intense dislike for one such group immigrating/ coming into your country is. Hmmm somone needs to moderate the moderators, get rid of some if these dimwits. [edit] welcome to the wonderful world of the warning system. Let me know if it needs explaining.

Ahhh no, don't twist words, you don't have to condone it, just don't bring it into the equation... Whever somone wants to put darker tints than their 'allowed' on their car is their buisness not yours/ ours.. its doesn't affect you, nor did they ask for your opinion, I didn't ask for it either. Btw it's a fine line between being considered 'illegal' and just bending rules... its not in statute, simply a reccomendation required to pass a warrent of fitness... seriously mayby your just an old man but you make me laugh taking something such as dark tints so seriously... I think your comment was the more stupid one to make. Get real.

Yea I agree with you, people don't ask questions on this forum and want you telling them whether its legal or not, and how much of a perfect law abiding citizen you are... I'm sure most people no what the darkest legal is.. heard it more than once on tint-a-car adds. I'm surprised everyone is so strict by the book, wouldn't expect it here. [edit] We dont appreciate xenophobic comments on Bimmersport, keep those opinions to yourself.

Going back to who ever asked about tint-a-car prices... cheapest (which is 35% MIDNIGHT) =$400-450 on average, thats there cheapest tint they offer- no where near as cheap as '250'. But they do a perfect job, and ten year warrenty's good.

I'd go Hamann, then go about the appearence side of things, and make it look a bit more like a tidy stock version but with the beast disguised. Agreed- Carbon fibre is yuck, keep its light weight, but paint it!

I doubt it, being track tyres and all there not common, and usually worn pretty quick, also very expensive, may I suggest going down to Puke, may find a few down there?... just take your jack and 'borrow' somone elses. All I could suggest to be honest. Good luck, guess you'll be drivin the sub for a bit.

HAHAHA yea settle huddyboy, swearing isn't realy appropriate. haha

Yea well said, and true, its a good time to buy cars, but it may be an even better time in months/ years to come... hate to be like those economists/ media but this 'crisis' (people loosing jobs/prices falling) realy has just started... you may find people even more in need to sell of their unnecassar pride and joy get even cheaper, just look at the dollar against the US... droped from above .7 to .5 in 2 months, and still said to be decrasing (one night I was up late and saw the dollar go under the .5 mark, it was very depressing, no more ebay o well. Yea true huddy I prob should summarise buts its easier to just type what I'm thinking.

I think most people into there Bimmers, old or young love the idea of an e30 m3, and have respect for it's real guts as a track car but usable on the road. As somone stated, one is worth what one pays for it (whether some people would like to think its worth more than it is and see some intrinsic value doesn't matter, if a buyer is prepared to pay what a seller wants, that value is its market value). As for cars increasing in value, No. Cars are not investements, any investor will tell you this. Full Stop. A general rule suggests a car must be 1/100 or less evermade for it to be worth more than its original value at any point, Every now and then you here of some 1/17 ever made Bugatti or similar being picked up for a large price as recently. The one thing many people forget when looking at a car as an investement is maintenance costs (this must be included when looking at an investement- and with old cars this is HIGH). M3's are rear, but there are thousands and thousands of them. Look at even older bimmers like the CSI's (rear), worth a good price considering there age and costs but there not exactly expensive, I doubt anyone selling one is making money (espicially after looking at how much they spent on it over the time they have owned it). E30 m3's are awsome, and they fetch a fairly high price showing they are somewhat a collectors item, but there not impossible to find (a few up for graps on trademe atm), and are still decreasing in value. Not to naysay but very very very few cars can be considered an investement, buy one cos you love them, not because you think it may go up in value.

I thought it was pretty funey, and pretty obvious it was a joke (hence the smiley face), anyone who takes it seriously needs to be less serious and pc, and besides if you want to carry a gun round I don't blame you, as long as you have a lisence and its concealed. Hmmm in the back of that 750 sounds like something I've seen of a movie haha.

My bad, got that trade-off the wrong way round- The toyo's are specifically good in the wet (there really in there domain in the wet), but I also felt just as good in the dry (direzzas may be slightly better in dry). Alot of other people comment on their amazing wet performance. Sorry for the confusion. Also road noise on both is very low. In terms of life there both the same (maybe 30 000kms) A little less than usual but that comes with being sticky like track tyres which last a 3rd of that.

There good in the wet too (unless you get specific tyres designed for one or the other, they'll be good in both wet and dry). I found the T1'rs riduculous in the dry (could use them on the track), and very good in the wet. I've also used dunlop direza's (as somone else mentioned above) and they were on par, pretty much the same standard, but may have been a little better in the wet, and not quite as good in the dry (I think the direzzas were disigned as a good performing wet tyre, more specifically than the Toyos). But yea very similar, very grippy tyres, unless your trying to get the wheels spinning it won't happen, even in the wet, and I never found that cheap tyre screeching/ squeeling going round fast corners like you do with cheap tyres. I personally would go for the Toyo's, the difference in price is nothing, depending on where you go one or the other will be slightly cheaper. Not to hate on Nexen, but there tyres available, although generally cheaper than the above, are very average. I have them currently and wearing them as quickly as I can before getting some more Toyo's, there fine/ good in the dry, but have the cheap squeel, and are fairly poor (in comparison) in the wet.

hard wire it to wire coming to lights/ switches on roof behind rear-view mirror- easier, no need to drag wire round, straight through lining and comes out at top of windscreen (have radar hiding behind rear-view for best detection and subtle). You might have a certain need to wire it to steering colum, but thats how I did it and its perfect.

Algood bro!, yea ring round if you wana be a jew, I've had a few done, and normally costs $20 but some places try get 30 or more outa you. ps: text me when theres somethin on huddyboy!

I have nexens and think there average, there not crap but just not great (there some of the better nexens to), there not to gripy and squeel a little round hard corners, also prone to sidewall damage- have a few bumps and now need new ones, read reviews and seems to be a common problem- have weak sidewalls). Your right on the mark with Toyo's- Ive had the T1R's and they were simply amazing, stuck like glue and yea just great- they are a bit more expensive but IMO worth as much as some tyres twice the price, you would be able to pick 225's in ur size for just under $500. Do it!

Realy you should just stop driving like a maniac bro. But yes its repairable, bring it to me (you know where i live) n i can fix it with a sticky plaster or two. Reccomended pressure for these babies in bout 10psi?? so you got it right on with the puncture bro! just my 2c

I have a guy do my tyres whos been fitting tyres for the past 20 years, and see track e30's getting new rubber done at his mag n turbo ova the shore. What I said he reccomends, I'm guessing he knows what hes doing. It is common knowlege to have more pressure on back than front.. ur back tyres are your driving tyres, unless you want to reduce speed and acceleration you want them pumped well, ur front tyres are ur steering tyres(obviously) and they need controll so you want more tyre sticking to the road. (this is the same idea for staggered race wheels). Safety wise unless you go to either extreme(too pumep or to little), pressure will have little effect, the tyre itself is more important (get something for atleast $250 a trye or your comprimising alot). Im no tyre expert just repeating what somone with the knowlege reccomeneded me... and find it great. BTW worn out tyres (unless completely done- no tread in which case you wouldn't be driving) have the same surface area on the ground no matter how much tread they got left on them (the tread goes down perfectly perpendicular to the tyre).. If you painted your tyres tread at new, then rolled it along the ground, then after a year the footprint it leaves behind would be indentical...

Hey Nick, got pretty much same wheels as yours. 38psi on rear, and 34psi on front is whats reccomended (thats for best performace, but also daily driving). Being rear-wheel drive, and taking into account you need sticky front tyres, it's always been noted to have a higher pressure at back, and lower at front. I definately wouldn't be pumping these specific tyers above 40psi unless you want to increase chances of punctures, sidewall damage and loose some steering feel. Good luck finding a good medium between speed and handling.

Yea seems almost half the price of a few vehicles I looked up. In terms of bimmers, it really just looks at the model, having sports option/ manual probaly all most doubles the value, espicially on e30's/ e36's. Then again with the economy and all- 'buyers market' you probaly would expect your average car to decrease in value by a 3rd, giving values similar to what this new feature spits out.

Haha keep your mouth shut huddy . haha yea.

Cheers glenn, point taken. Yea I can see how there may be other problems (computer related), I'm having it plugged in on friday, and see if the computers throwing any faults, and should be able to have it reset to take the T/C into account, or tell the system it's fine. If not probaly will throw the other one back in. The difference isn't huge but I think noticeable(maybe placebo haha), because with the m50 manifold I need to get as much air through the runners as possible or their was little point in me doing it, if theres a bottle neck before it (along with a remap, and the CIA, and new TB this should be good). Sorry for the arguing, I know you know what your talking about.

No I think it is you who has missed the point. I have stated that I will let my insurance company know I have replaced T/C with lsd and see if its a prob(please read), if so will remove it. As for resale, I don't think I will, will just run it into the ground, and if i did decide to sell it, id chuck the old traction contoll back in within 2mins(maybe less) , or otherwise not list the car with T/C or say 'no T/C'?? seriously think about it. Please don't compare internet porn(what made you think of this ), with a question on some forum about whether having T/C in effect turned off would affect insurance. No, car companies don't put it in because it makes their job easier, they put it in to keep up with industry standards, and hold buisness with a large sector of people who drive a car from a to b and want safety over speed. If I just wanted to get from a to b, I wouldn't be on this forum or have the car i do, with a saftey rating of 2/6 and mods. Thanks for all the advice, I don't mean to be rude, but sick of the endless line of people posting negative nay-saying comments that arn't fact or related to the question to start, and seem to be posted purely for the fact of wanting to hold opposing views, Mayby I should have posted this under the performance section, where people are more interested in performance gains, than arguing over minor/ reversable asc changes, seriously asc is just a pain in the neck, it's not saving anyone, I personally feel less in controll not having full controll of throtle, and more than half the time it is safer to accelerate out of a slide, than have power cut and keep sliding. New versions are a different thing. But BMW's first shot at a T/C was basic at best. Anway please don't bother with further posts about the insurance, As one decent comment did suggest, I will just be straight up with the insurance company and see what they say (would definately rather have the piece of mind), don't think it will be a biggy. fineto, and lets chill

Hmmmm maybey in theory, but don't see it happening, brothers written off a bimmer before, and have seen what they look at and questions they ask, they are more interested in warrent/ tires/ drunk. Anway, used the throtle body hose of a Z3 roadster(as it fits perfectly), tied the single plug down behind the fuse box, and disconected bulb for asc warning, aka its looks like absolutely nothing has been tampered with- genuine bmw part(looks like the old one) and no warning light. Besides if they ever asked about it you just say, must have been done before i brought the car(which with a couple of previous owners is very likely and can't be proven, maybe asc was faulty and they removed it with standard TB). Once I have the lsd in I will let insurance company know of the switch, its no biggy and my broker knows the ins and outs, If it causes problems may just plug the old one back in and deal with the minor inconvience.

Thats alright, I like to do things, then talk about my experience and what I actualy know is the outcome, rather than give unobjective thoughts about things I havn't done and don't understand.

Pointless argument, you got it. But please stop with your subjective opinions. If I loose traction, even the slightest around a corner, my lsd will send/ divert power from the wheel loosing traction to the wheel firmly planted on the ground(path of least resistance), allowing continuallly acceleration and grip where previously I would have needed to slow down or skid out, whilst T/C wants to reduce throtle(or abs depending on model) and slow down the car... For crying out loud- no they do not work in harmony!!!-not at all (unless your car comes stock with both and they are in-coorporated to let both do their job). And then you can say, well turn it off, as somone mentioned above turning it off doesn't completely deactivate it(as i was saying before) it just delays the trigger point. And as for gains well, I went to the trouble of doing a manifold swap, so I dont want a bottle neck secondary throtle body right before the plenum, and for all of a 5min reversable task I have unleashed a little throttle response and power (you would be surprised it's not actually that minor- just like the manifold swap my new TB allows about andother half as much airflow again-less restrictve). I have checked with insurance company, the reply I got wasn't as exact as I would have expected but the lady at Tower said that in terms of loss of traction, the only check to be done if the car has warrent, interms of traction, was on tyres, even if you have a warrent and they deem them not to standard you got no hope, she did say they didn't have listed whether some cars had T/C or not, she did say you should tell your insirance comany any modifications you make, but I got the feeling although technicaly possible for investigation, no insruance company goes and checks into the electrical history of your car- more interested in tyres and quick tests that would definatly have a major role to play in a crash. Also on a last note: T/C is for grandma's, it takes the fun out of driving. End of story.