98_s14

Yeah I did, I will try to pick it up tomorrow after work. I'll text you tomorrow to see what suits, Thanks again

Bump

Appreciate the heads up thanks Andy, I don't have AC in the race car but it would be nice I was more trying to demonstrate roughly which bit of plastic I meant. I bought a SA radiator because it was a bit deeper than the one I had, but the plastic duct I have now blocks the lower 1/3rd or so.

I've found a front lip I think, just waiting to hear back from APT. Part number 2 below is the bit I mean, the plastic bit that ducts air into the radiator. The brake proportioning valve is part number 5 below, has to be from a car with rear disc brakes. Thanks for your reply Top Secret, are those pictures big enough to see?

Hi all, I'm after a front lip for a facelift E30, the 318iS lip would be lovely, but I doubt anyway has one they'd part with....normal lip would do fine. Also after: - the pre-radiator shroud from a South African E30....ie the bit of plastic before the radiator. (it just needs to allow for the deeper radiator). - brake proportioning valve from a disc rear E30 Any or all of these would be much appreciated, please PM or reply. Thanks a lot

Very tempted, what would you expect shipping to Auckland to be? $60-$70?

Yeah I'll take it, I'll send you PM. Thanks

Very keen, what offset and one piece? Thanks

Do you have a 20mm E30 325i front sway bar available? Cheers

If anyone has an E30 325i (maybe some 320i's?) 20mm front sway bar and the links, I would happily buy it off you. (As long as price is reasonable). Please PM Cheers Michael

Still possible to buy an E30 strut brace?

If you guys do go with an international supplier, I would pay the extra dollars for AKG. I've read bad things about Ireland Engineering products.

Wayney in your opinion, who makes a well priced free flowing rear box? (Or in anyone else's opinion too)

I tried a spare air flow meter last night and hey presto! the problem seems to be gone. Hopefully thats the end of it, thank you for your help

I don't think I've got them mixed up. I'll try bridging those pins tonight. If that doesn't work I'll check voltage across the pump and swap my spare one in if that comes up good. I'll keep you posted, thanks for the help so far.

Ok thanks for that Glenn, I'm hoping to get it sorted so I can race this weekend. Even the fuel lines are new. Is there a similar relay I can swap for the fuel pump one? Are they expensive?

We put all of the bits and pieces back onto the rebuilt engine, but the problem was happening before the engine was rebuilt. It happened after a roll cage was welded in which makes me wonder if something electrical got damaged (the battery and ECU were disconnected at the time). The car is in West Auckland. Edit: So your initial thought would be fuel and not spark? I have a spare used fuel pump, I could swap that in and try it.

Yes I suspect it is something quite simple. I didn't change the spring tension on the AFM, just the little arm that sits on the carbon track (to make sure it has a good contact). I don't have a fuel pressure gauge, I can borrow and ammeter to check the voltage at the fuel pump. I'm guessing I could swap the fuel pump relay with another relay to check it perhaps? Edit: Location added, thanks for that

Thanks for replying, Yeah it has a brand spanking fuel filter, injectors have been cleaned and flowed, I don't know about the FPR, whats the best way to test the fuel pump?

Hi there, I'm having some engine trouble with my E30 320i engine. I've had an intermittent (well 90% of the time) engine fault since having a roll cage installed (it may be completely unrelated), the engine will start, idle ok and drive a short distance before spluttering a bit or just losing all power and dieing. Since then, the engines been completely rebuilt, I've had the alternator tested, it has a new battery, air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs and I've adjusted the air flow meter to make sure its on fresh carbon. The engine started fine the first two or three times after putting it back in the car, and would idle, rev a bit etc but wasn't driven. Then last night it started fine, idled ok, would respond poorly to throttle, I drove it up the driveway and it died and wouldn't start (but had enough voltage to crank the engine). So, what can I check? The fuel pump? Fuel pump relay? The coil? Is there an easy process I can go through to check these things with limited equipment? I don't think the engine is flooded because it starts fine. I don't know whether parts like the dizzy rotor or cap can cause an intermittent fault? Thanks a lot in advance, I won't be racing at Hampton Downs this weekend if I can't get to the bottom of it

I used AKG motorsport. Subframe, rear trailing arm, offset control arm, etc. Awesome bushes. I do have some noltec (I think thats the brand) adjustable trailing arm and offset control arm bushes I got with a trademe auction which I'll sell at a good price if anyone wants them, there new in the packet. If you go for powerflex they make a 'black' option bush which is harder, depends on what the car is being used for I guess but none of the powerflex bushes are as hard as the 75D akg ones.

I'm looking for a wiper bottle/motor unit in good condition, to suit facelift if theres a difference, preferably cheap and in auckland. Thanks

Bump, anyone?

Nice video and nice driving. I like your style

Bump, someone must have one??? Someone replied to this topic and now their reply is gone?? Is this normal?