_Matt_

Is this a good thread to ask for a M30B34 block?

I'm in need of one for my poor E28.

When purchasing a timing chain with master link is does that come with the link and cir-clips to connect the chain?

It might seem like a weird question but I can't actually find pictures or confirm if all is included without needing a special tool to press the chain etc.

Looking to finish off my engine bay restoration but I'm stumped as to which radiator to buy.

Attached is my current one inside my M528i E28

I think one of those switches is a temp switch for the aircon radiator fan...I'm not sure about the other one...what replacement radiator will accomodate these sensors?

also do all radiators just have the expansion tank nipple you have to screw in yourself?

TIA

That the outfit on Hands Rd? Cheers, I'll give him a visit.

It's nice that he has some e21s, he'll appreciate the love I have for my E28

My 84' E28 needs a rust repair done on the engine support, about where the steering box/subframe/ all sort of suspension and steering components join up.

When they failed my WOF they basically said I'd need someone that cares about my car enough to fix it correctly due to the fact everything has to be precise. All the steering component etc surround the area.

My question is, does anyone know a crowd that would take this on? and has some good skills and attitude to do the job right? I feel it's not big enough to take to a classic restoration outfit but I don't want any old panel shop to botch my car either.

TIA.

Na, she did after my engine swap a couple of years ago. Until a few WOFs in. They discovered a bit of rust. We are only on one income after my son was born so $0 to throw at my pride and joy right now

Had her first wash in a year or two. Covered and garaged once again

I like!

I swapped the sensor positions and also tried turning the engine over with the plugs both ways around.

yep, factory setup.

out of a 635i I believe. Swapped them with no luck.

I'm only getting one correct resistance from point 1 to 2 of a single sensor, 1060ish ohms. Every other point on both sensors fail to read anything. The other points are suppose to shoot up to 100 000+ right?

anyone out there have one or two of these lying around? I believe it's what is stopping my E28 from starting since one doesnt pass the resistence test. I'm moving house in a week so it's rather bad timing.

Anyone got some working ones? dont care if they are bad condition, I'm buying new ones anyway, I just need to be able to drive it to my new place.

TIA

12 rockers - $180

12 valve seals - $12

Cam regrind - $150

some valve grind paste - $20?

and whatever a skimmed head costs...

``/*--/+/*7`9

It would cause excess load on the engine and a buggered bearing would also cause a whirring noise. Would it cause it to stall? it shouldn't.

But you've established the alternator needs repairing or replacement, so fix that and go from there I say.

I bet the price halved when it left the factory floor with that paint job

I'm sure people would love to spend 3k on a stock standard 525e with springs that will give it a pink sticker.

try selling it for a grand with stock suspension and sell the wheels separately.

is it warrantable with the makitas?

low pressure off the reservoir? if it's anything like an E28 you can just use a new hose from para rubber and a couple of hose clamps.

would be happy to if you were in chch, surely there are heaps of Aucklanders with 80s BMW's haha c'mon guys

Saw this on Innes Rd the other day, looks bloody good

Greeting,

I completed a compression test today because the engine is doing a few things that aren't quite right since I rebuild it a year ago.

It sometimes coughs bluish smoke after a hard drive and only at really high revs, it also gets a bit hotter than it should but I think my radiator and fan might just not be cutting the mustard.

anyway, my question was if this compression test is ok is could a leak down test show something completely different?

Test (I know it should be about 145psi but i'm guessing a $60 super cheap tester isn't quite accurate):

Cylinder #1 – 195psi

Cylinder #2 – 197psi

Cylinder #3 – 195psi

Cylinder #4 – 195psi

Cylinder #5 – 200psi

Cylinder #6 – 205psi

thoughts?

He's obviously put no research into his wheels, the fronts look shocking, offset is way out and too much stretch. The basket weaves look mint.

Might I add he has 20 photos of the outside of the car, I wonder what the interior is like...

this thread is depressing.

if only it was in chch

I drive a 1996 1.5L Mazda Famila Sedan, not as luxurious at the 535i E34 but defiantly more fuel efficient. it was also $2k exactly.