_Matt_

good luck finding an automatic flywheel

not sure if you're talking about the car or that strange dance that man is doing.

HellBM or Brent might be able to help you on these forums. Also milland.co.nz can supply one. Otherwise Pelican Parts have them

Shipping will probably be like $40 though

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/pel_search.cgi?SUPERCAT_FLAG=&make=&please_wait=N&forumid=&threadid=&command=DWsearch&description=13711285479&I1.x=-351&I1.y=-128

#8 on the 1st or 2nd link?

What Number?

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=1442&mospid=47275&btnr=13_0234&hg=13&fg=15

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=1442&mospid=47275&btnr=13_0597&hg=13&fg=15

You're right, check the fuses/relays etc. you probably still have to remove that cover on the firewall to see the fans, check using a multimeter to see if power is going to the motor, if there is and it's not spinning I would say that's your problem.

I would suggest taking new photos now you are selling it. There will be people all around New Zealand interested in this and 5 arty photos of the exterior and nothing else isn't going to help you fetch 20 grand.

Drove my e30 in the weekend, only to have the air conditioning/heater unit die completely (doesn't blow out any air). The fan has been squeezing quite a bit lately.

Any idea why this may have happened and is it an easy fix? Really want to get it going again as I'm driving half way down the country over new years in it...

My first thought, seized blower motor (check and see if it spins)

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=816093

The top one can be had for about $95 US inc shipping for bremi brand...or about $120 US for genuine Bosch.

How is this piece of trim held on? Is it held on by some sort of adhesive which has perished and is where those rusty spots now are?

The rust spots are where clips were. Clips similar to this I assume, can't seem to find the exact ones on real oem

what kind is it?

This...

or this...

back of the cylinder head #13

I have the same as that ^

but that + a rachet didn't fit between the gear box and the cars body, which is why i put a spanner around it.

yum

Just want till june, no point selling a car during xmas.

I am officially on holiday, which mean this project WILL get done during the christmas/new years break. At the moment I'm tying up lose ends while waiting patiently for my last crucial pelican parts order which contains the crank position sensors. This was a slight hiccup on my part. The M30B28 was non motronic so didn't need crank sensors on the bell housing, that means I am missing the holes in my getrag 260. I am taking it to an engineer to drill some but I need sensors for the engineer to use as a reference. Since that is taking so long to arrive Brent has been nice enough to send me a second hand sensor to use.

Apart from that set back, I'm pretty much ready to drop it in.

When I first took the engine out i took a few reference photos incase I forgot where something went, I decided to upload them and place them beside todays photos, it's pretty cool to see the difference.

Here's the assortment of update photos (sorry if there is no real order)...

Old clutch on the right, new (more meat at least) on the left

Detail photos (then and now)

Then:

Now:

Then:

Now:

Then:

Now:

Small difference between the two blocks. No Biggie I guess.

I've replace both input and Output shaft seal on the getrag.

Put the old girl to rest R.I.P...

Make way for the new girl...

Then:

Now:

Then:

Now:

And here is something that is probably of interest to most people. My dad laughed at me when I told him about this….remove rust with electricity, water, and sodium carbonate.

Result

Painted and ready to fit

What this method did to my air box (obviously surface rust underneath)

Before:

After:

The air box is yet to be painted.

I have various things still to arrive.

copper nuts, clutch slave, PS filter, washer fluid hose/tee join, trans mounts, 1.9 Z3 shifter (F*ck yea)

Lets hope the next pics and probably video you see is my engine in and started

Far out, you did well.

when I changed my fluid I used a hex socket, put a wrench over it and whacked it with a hammer.

Having a (very) hard time getting the fill plug out of my manual transmission. I have a 17mm allen key. A penetrating oil such as PB Blaster looks like my best bet. Are there any alternatives to this? or any tricks to getting this bolt out? There isn't a lot of room down there so it's quite hard! Some people suggest jacking the wrench/allen key but i'm not too keen on that. Any ideas?

Cheers

Edit: 1987 E30 325i

that's a rather large allen key you have there…i'd suggest putting a pipe over it to lengthen it and try again.

Does it have the holes in the bell housing for motronic sensors?

all it is is a piece of metal shaped like an L and some nuts and bolts. I'm sure you could fab something.

It's crazy what the unreliable BMW stigma and petrol prices are doing to these cars value. That's probably more of a steal than my 2k e34.

If you don't have the patience to buy in parts or fabricate similar parts you could just do something like this

My lower mount looks like this, a lot of people use this rubber bush (from afm mount) as Opposed to the one you have because it's good for this mod and apparently stonger.

do you have #5 already? if i remember rightly it should be welded on the body and that rubber bush pushes in as in your pic...