dirtydoogle

Get them to check your  bearing clearances and ring gaps if you're not too confident. There's 3 different bearing clearances used and with a crank polish it's likely increased clearance by 0.002-0.005" 

If you're feeling handy, plastigauge/flexigauge is fine for a street engine if used correctly 

All those clean parts look 👌 😍 

"Engine swap doesn't need certification" 

Classic 

You fellas need a beer. Atleast it's not the vintage British car community, they're all dead, except me😉

Jeepers, it's raining oil!! And people mock British cars 😅

That's a real bummer man. B25 and B30 use same valve sizes, I believe B22 has smaller valves. 

90 would likely be Brinell or Vickers hardness test numbers 

Alternatively if you can't find a complete motor, an M52 or M52Tu stroker build could be the go. 

When did reverse lights become a WoF item? 

Would be lovely mated to a ZF, much nicer ratios than the FJ boxes. PMC gear is nice though, and good customer care 

25 minutes ago, Driftit said:

If these new BMWs are reliable I'm calling that unfair on the classic BMW owners like us. 

They won't be, don't panic 😉

Different guibo is between ZF and Getrag boxes.

4 cyl driveshaft is a little longer on the front half, 4 cyl gearbox sits further forward 

4 cyl shifter will work on a 6, gear lever just sits 20mm back

Early clutch master is longer, has an aluminium housing and holds the pedal a bunch higher. Later master is a more natural pedal height, is plastic housing and uses a push in fitting with a clip. 

Later cars with dual mass flywheel had a clutch delay valve, throw that into the bin of replace with a new one 

Leave the auto shift selector in the car, in park or neutral position. It will fit under the console fine and means you don't have to bother joining 2 wires 

Try to use an m52 starter if you do it, the starter flange has threads, VS the stupid M50 nut and bolt 

On 5/4/2022 at 1:39 PM, Driftit said:

Its just such a huge step away from what we all thought was BMW. Slap a Hyundai badge on it and it would never have been discussed here. 

"The German Corolla has morphed in to a German Mustang MachE?" 

I don't think it's such a big deal  that FWD active tourer thingy was less of an issue and that was a genuine POS. Mediocre, and unreliable. In comparison to nice and unreliable 

For a car that appears to have very nice seats it sure does spark some huge controversy. 

Thats brilliant, haven't seen an FJ swap in anything for yonks. Very underrated engine. What box are you running behind it?

I would be wary 

Last UK MOT milage record and milage records here all signal it is in miles, even though odometer says km 🙄 

First thing to check is even tyre pressures, makes quite a difference on brake machines 

If handbrake mech was playing up enough to effect foot brake it probably wouldn't be getting the rotor off easily 

Otherwise, replace hoses and flush the hard lines out 

I reckon my MG midget is smaller than one of the kidneys on the X7

You can down load a spreadsheet with the conversion rates from NEDC to WLTP-3P from here https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.transport.govt.nz/assets/Uploads/CCD-Calculator-2022-v1.02.xlsx&ved=2ahUKEwjulPej25D3AhXmJ0QIHahzDlcQFnoECAUQAQ&sqi=2&usg=AOvVaw2Bv0AiyHzri80GGS75Nihn

Ring a tyre/mag shop for spacers, easiest way and also ask them about anyone they may use for re-drilling 

Measure your hub outer diameter to see how much room you have for a larger PCD, would need around 125mm to be safe with an M12 wheel bolt 

Any engineer can re-drill your hubs, brake rotors and or drums, piece of cake. Do not fill original holes, that's illegal and foolish

Use hubcentric rings

Dunno about offsets on e21s though 

I usually have a laugh whenever going through palmy 

It looked trashed about 6 years ago

Luckily it has a timing belt and not a chain 😉 

Could be an efficient way to empty your wallet in ownership costs though

1 hour ago, NZ00Z3 said:

Agreed.  1/2 of the Z3 fleet is the same.  DME and EGS are OBD2 with the rest of the car being OBD1/ADS.  That's why I have the Foxwell NT530 with BMW software.  It will talk OBD1/ADS to the older cars.  Better than carting my XP computer around in the Boot.

XP PC is a total PITA to carry around 🤦‍♂️ 

How early are we talking? If it talks early e36 I'll grab one 

16 hours ago, NZ00Z3 said:

The Foxwell NT530 scanner with BMW software list the E39 as being in it's coverage.  http://blog.foxwellstore.com/foxwell-nt530-bmw-obd2-scanner-vehicle-coverage-faqs/

Most pre-lci e39s outside of the euro and US markets are not OBD2 compliant 

May not be alternator is that is the case, 

Ignition switch issues (common) or a loose plate in the battery (not that uncommon these days either) 

Sounds like a broken solder joint on the rectifier pack in the alternator, would cause intermittent charge issues.

Try checking voltage after driving it for a bit, or carry a meter with you and check voltage when it plays up 

Diagnostic tool can be potentially difficult on that era e39

5 hours ago, Olaf said:

I bought my e60 545i for 45c in the dollar compared to a Commodore SS.  I was fully paid up dollar-for-dollar in the maintenance stakes within a two to two-and-a-half years, though with a *much* (much!) better car!  From my perspective - as I don't shy away from quality maintenance - the higher depreciation of the euro has always paid off.

This is the thing. They become pretty scary if you want a 10-15k car that actually just works. 

I honestly would be pretty hacked off buying anything other than a 50 year old British car that leaked oil at 120km. But I also despise working on daily drivers/family cars. 

I would be leaning towards wheel bearing. Angular contact bearings do some real strange stuff sometimes 

That's more like a turtle having sex? 

Two likely things, that CV boot could be rubbing between the bellows, that makes a horrible noise. 

Or a very interesting failure of the wheel bearing