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dirtydoogle

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dirtydoogle last won the day on October 12 2019

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About dirtydoogle

  • Rank
    4th Gear
  • Birthday 01/05/1989

Previous Fields

  • Name
    Doug
  • Location
    Hawkes Bay
  • Car
    E36 328i/2
  • Mods List
    Kicked the clutch
  • Car 2
    E36 316i
  • Car 3
    E53 3.0d 6M
  • Race Car
    E36 325i

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  • Website URL
    http://
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    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Bikes, beemers...

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3540 profile views
  1. Right, I've had a look at my Hilux, Lexus, Corolla, e36 316, our work truck and Camry, all are below 100mV running
  2. I would be constantly checking the alkalinity of your coolant during the testing. 467mV sounds a bit high to me? I can have a look at some of my cars and see what they're doing
  3. Kettle is always on at mine, door open and dog waiting if you want Graham 👍
  4. dirtydoogle

    M43 no start!

    Bring it over and have a cuppa. I'll scare it in to behaving.
  5. Have you checked the harmonic balancer? Very common failure
  6. I have to agree. Same could be said of the Escort Cossie and E30 M3
  7. That's certainly true regarding the first generation 1UZFE, very heavyinternals and valve springs made of cheese, not a very inspiring motor in standard form. The 2and gen onwards ones go much better. The later 3uzfe is a lovely bit of gear, our GS430 goes noticeably better than my e39 540 did
  8. I use a cheapo one with my petrol blaster. I'm sure it's tool pro It worked pretty well but I did modify the nozzle a little for a better "sheet" effect and I have rejetted it too, keihin/mikuni jets work quite well for that ? Rejecting for better foam action does make a decent difference in the amount of product used
  9. That's quite true. But there's a whole lot more as circuit cars here in NZ than drifting. I'll stick to hoarding parts and driving old British cars instead
  10. I knew hoarding e36 manual conversions and useless OEM junk was my great retirement plan
  11. Use high tensile or stainless threaded rod, 12mm. Perfectly adequate The tool I have uses 12mm galv threaded rod and that's fine, unless you haven't aligned it correctly My tool is much the same as the one in the OP
  12. Getting an old laptop with a serial port is the way to go, but not as easy to set up as the plug and play foxwell I have a tinyADS interface for pre obd2 cars and run win7 on an old HP elitebook and it works extremely well for early and later model
  13. That's a spanner in the works Well, if it was placed there I would suggest access from under the car is the way Or just go from the top with skinny arms
  14. Follow the wiring in the clipped on harness that runs over the thermostat housing, that will lead you to your sensor above the pulley As far as I can tell only US market m44 ran the sensor under the manifold. I've got a Jap market one here and have had an nz new one, both triggered off the pulley. I am yet to personally see an m5x or m4x in nz that triggers off the rear
  15. You won't be running in to a restriction as such with forced induction on the standard cams until the 600+hp mark anyway. There are definitely gains to be had with a better cam design but it all depends on what you're wanting as an end result A basic re-grind will only take off some of the base circle, leaving you with a longer duration but the same slow ramp speeds. It is possible to build the lobes up and grind them to a better spec but for that cost you could get an off the shelf unit
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