dirtydoogle

A lot of over thanking going on here. 

Basically check what flywheel you have before buying bits, unless you plan on replacing the flywheel too 

Buy some decent quality E-torx sockets and some long 1/2" extensions

Borrow a 1/4 or 3/8 torque wrench for the clutch cover bolts (buy 6 new m8x16 cap head screws, 22-24nm for a grade 8.8 fastener, with a drop of loctite)

Get the car on stands 

Disconnect battery

Remove the exhaust 

Remove driveshaft and heatsheild (If it was put back on during conversion)

Remove slave cylinder and cable tie out of the way

Disconnect shifter linkage 

Unbolt the starter (m50 cars are bolt and nut, so get a friend to help from the top to bold the nuts on the starter side, unless you have small hands like me) 

Unbolt bellhousing bolts and cross member bolts 

Do not miss the little fellas on the dust shield around the bottom 

Remove gearbox. They're very light, you can lift them with one arm in to position while lying down. 

If replacing flywheel, please replace the bolts with the correct ones, and this will depend on what flywheel you have, these are torqued to 105nm, a drop of loctite doesn't hurt (use very sparingly) 

Buy and install a new pilot bearing, 6002-2RS is the number and available off the shelf at Repco, BNT etc. 

Removing the pilot bearing, Google how. Many methods, I like to use wet white bread if I don't have my tool with me

Once you've done one or two of these you can comfortably do a clutch and flywheel change by yourself under an hour on the ground. It's not as daunting as people make out 

I'll take the old motor off your hands 😉

We have two circuit pack GRs, and a DB9 on the boat now 👍 The Aston should arrive next month 

On 7/10/2021 at 10:47 AM, Sammo said:

Jeez - is it as tidy on the outside as it looks?

I'm trying to figure out what caused Wolverine to have an epileptic fit on the drivers seat

You should be able to pick up a G220 for around 4-500 all day long

M20 bellhousing is the same, but as you say mounting angle is on the wees 

D/shaft won't work either. 

Clutch will be okay unless you have a 240mm one due to internal clearance, I think, but don't quote me on that

Your shifter will sit on the piss too

1 minute ago, Sammo said:

Sold inside a day...

Not too surprised, seemed extremely well sorted and very tidy.

Yup that was a very nice example that one. I did the engine and diff for it. Drives really nicely  

9 hours ago, E30 325i Rag-Top said:

It’s a genuine M3 and low Kms, but considering the other M3s that struggled to sell around that price, it’s not an $80k M3.

Down sides are: US Spec, non-original colour (big question - why re-spray, flagged as as damaged import..?), front seats (very hard to find genuine M3s), broken front bumper & missing tow eye covers & caps. Wheels on it have been sold separately, so it comes on what..? And this is just from the photos.

Could be a good buy for someone, but not at anywhere near $80k, sorry.

I know the car from before it being registered, was in Dannevirke 

Damage flagging was parcel shelf cut for bigger speakers 

IIRC correctly it was a tarted up car from Japan and had a set of BBS RC304s on it. 

Nothing special to drive unfortunately, was a total let down for me  

6 hours ago, E30 325i Rag-Top said:

There’s quite a few threads around on this topic have a search for those.

I’ve personally brought in three cars, but all were quite a while ago, it was quite straightforward if you read up on what was needed - NZTA web-site was very useful, plus talking to your local compliance guys to get them on-board.

Rules are a bit tougher now, but a new Yaris should be fine.

Aware of the basics and info online. Just never hurts to ask if anyone experienced has tips, looks like 2 cars will be coming back 

5 hours ago, lord_jagganath said:

My Boss wants to bring in a 1998 911 Targa from Shropshire. i see fun times ahead. 

Please not a 996!

How many of you have personal experience with bringing a car in?
A friend of mine is going to be traveling to the UK to visit family and we are planning to get them a Yaris GR, and bring it home after 6 or so months under the PES scheme.

Has anyone got any useful contacts or advice?

TIA

What model BMW do you have

On 5/11/2021 at 4:13 PM, Ghost Chip said:

Genuine question here as I’m new to this. What would you maintain to be able to prevent that? Replacing plugs? Injectors? Pump? Regulator? Would that mean that it’s “fixable”?

Probably just a faulty anti drain valve in the pump. 

It's about time. There have been multiple recalls on various brands in the states for quite a while

Likely worn out dies and typically poor Chinese QC 

Ratchet stands are poo. Pin lock is the way. 

I had a reasonably new ratcheting stand drop an RX3 at my head while servicing after the Motu. That was scary 

On 5/5/2021 at 1:29 PM, Driftit said:

My old man has had an E55 AMG since new.  Still has it.  Is a great car and probably one of the best towing vehicles on the road.  But most of the E55's here are Jap imports that flooded in around 2008 to 2010.  They were dirt cheap which put them into the hands of people who could not afford to maintain them.  Be very careful what you buy.

I also once argued that an E30 is superior to an MX5 in every way.  However now they are far more expensive than an MX5...  I think I would still have an E30 over one though.

Certainly isn't too easy to get a real nice E55 now, but still doable and they are an absolute bargain. 

I can see both sides of the argument with e30s and mx5s, but they're totally different cars for different people. Personally I find the mx5 is a much more fun/pure entertainment drive. I've always found e30s to be a "nicer than normal, normal size car" from the era, not in a bad way though. 

I do have appalling taste though 😁

I'll risk being banned here  

If I was spending the money l would buy an E55, and save 25k for tyres. Family skids in comfort. 

And keep my current MX5, because 1st gen MX5 is best car ever. 

You air consumption/maf reading looks much to high for my liking, that's around 3.5gm/s and I would expect nearer 2gm/s or 7-7.5kg/h

Short answer, no. 

Would require cert for welding 

PSI is a measure of restriction, so really isn't worth reading in to, too much. 

As an example a 2jz toyota I tu-tu with is making 730whp on 23psi. 

The same car, with a different turbo and divider on the manifold was making ~580whp (same dyno) on more boost, with lots less torque and far worse response

CFM in to the engine, exh turbine pressure and cylinder head design are the key elements here. 

You will find the general majority of OE turbos are quite inefficient and only work okay through the mid range 

That would be an awful job trying to remove paint defects that bad. 

Lovely car, once. 

M52b25 uses the same valve and cam package as a m50/52b20, not worth putting money in to. M50b25 or b28 head is where the difference is 

That manual plot looks pretty decent, airflow deviations in the midrange like  that would be consistent with vanos position 

Are you able to graph the o2 voltage and injector duty? 

I would certainly be doing a smoke test on the car, purely due to its age 

Are you able to view and plot the maf readings? That's usually the "easy" way 

Should be reasonably linear under low load (in nuetral) 

I would expect to see above 3.5 gm/s and below 4.5 at idle

If you have a non linear deviation then the fun starts 

Yes, there are a few guides online to diagnosing them 

Cheap pressure tester from trademe has a shrader adapter and they're fine for occasional use 

Scan it with something that will talk to it. Otherwise there is a plethora of things that will cause an ABS fault 

You can test the sensors with a DMM with diode function