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dirtydoogle

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Posts posted by dirtydoogle


  1. My original example was regarding a BMW E30 with too much power, trying to save gearboxes, diff's and CV joints. In a manual road car it is much less stressful on the drivetrain to load it up, especially 4WD cars with all the traction they have (and usually weak gearboxes to go with it) It's common practise on a road car if you want it to last more than a year. Your drag trannies are much, much stronger for a reason. (also spools up turbos if you don't have anti-lag by putting a bit of load on the engine)

    I can do it back to back, I'm no god, letting the clutch out using muscle memory, developed from practise, at a certain amount of revs while droping the handbrake is not exactly 4 year Uni level physics.

    Drag cars and their 'technology' are something I hope to never, ever be involved with. Would rather melt down 100 dollar bills and drink them. It's cool if you do it, but in my personal opinion I'd rather go to the track and continue around the corner at the end of the straight.

    Our drag car has around the same technology as my e12....

    Well our drag car uses next to no technology :ph34r:

    The reason the 4wd gear boxes sh*t out is the sudden take up from d*ck wits dumping the clutch, don't dump the clutch in a 4wd unless you have it on grass....take a mitsi cm5a gsr for example, the fastest way down the strip is launching from 2700rpm. With an e30, easing the power on slower and using the brilliant throttle control I wish I had and it will be faster and last longer, dumping the clutch breaks any car, launching properly means there is no sudden take up on you drive line meaning your e30 doesn't go pop, loading up is unnecessary stress in any vehicle, it stresses your gears, engine and diff. It's not hard to build revs up to a certain amount and have consistent launches :)

    Our drag car has mechanical injection like a ww2 air craft did and a set of points like anything 50 years old did, running through the recommended replacement coil for a misti cordia, it's only a 380ish cube small block with a c6 3speed auto, no real technology. I prefer corners too, I just also like watching 1800hp take off and having the experience of working on such a cool machine. I'd rather ride a bike though. You got the melting money part right...but 7 sec quarters aren't cheap :(


  2. I mean having the Rev's where you usually have them, but the handbrake fully up and the clutch just sliiiightly grabbing. It also compresses the rear suspension so you get a much, much faster launch because you don't have to wait for the cars rear suspension to compress before it starts moving, also reducing wheelspin. It works :)

    Try doing that back to back with a tidy launch on the strip dude, loading up a vehicle is slower, we don't load up our rail, because it's slower and will sh*t the diff. I explained this to a mate who was running sh*t times in an s14 [as they do] he was bringing the revs up with the factory stall converter which locks up very early like any auto, he dropped .2 of a second just putting his boot in it off the line without loading anything up, same has been done with many cars, loading it up is slower. If you are going to "load it up" the only way that is faster is by having a trans brake, common to do with linko boxes. But that really isn't loading it up. If you suffer from too much wheelspin don't launch so hard, or soften the rear tires a bit and do your burnout across the line not to the line. Our rail runs around 1 second flat on the 60ft at 100mph, our driver doesn't load it up, it only had a moderate stall converter but the same applies for a manual. As I said, when loading it up all the ignition and injector timing is out. Which makes a fast FEELING launch by being a bigger shunt but it's slower. Not meaning to be a picky prat sorry, but we've been there and done that on the strip and nope, it's slower.

  3. The 4g63t idea is quite cool! Go for it, do what ya want. You can make some good power from the 4g motor and keep it reasonably flexible too. I know of a few good builds [not in a real car though :( ] and they make reasonable power, do a good skid too :D Better than the ole e39a vr4 I had...urgh

    Just load up the gears by holding the handbrake, and letting the clutch slightly out till it lurches a wee bit, for launches. And nice smooth shifts. Once the drivetrain components are loaded up they can take hundreds and hundreds of newton metres. It's the lash and crashing teeth together that kills it really.

    It's slower, believe me. I'm a strip junky and loading it up is a waste of time. Your A/FR is all wrong and your ignition timing too far advanced to be breathing properly in sync with your cam. low rev launch. Try doing the same thing down the strip in an auto, slower, guaranteed :P Not meaning to be a knob, just offering some advice.

  4. Depending on what information you are after, I might be able to assist <_<

    There are generally two aftermarket manuals for the E12s, one for the 4 cylinders and baby 6s, and one for the big 6s. There were still manuals available for the 520's but you need to search for them by model designation.....have you tried Amazon.com?

    For engine related stuff, the engine is shared with the '02, so a 2002 manual might be useful if you cant find an E12 one.

    I will try track down a 2002 one. I'll give amazon.com a try :D

  5. Mate just buy this http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=235811136 you can use all the running gear, pretty sure your manual will bolt up to the M30 as well.

    No motor in it mate :unsure: Would be neat though, but the body I have is in very good condition! Well, I took all the rust out today, a hole around an inch long under the top of the boot rubbers. A couple of bubbles on the RHS passenger door and had to make a piece for the bonnet.

  6. Ok I was recalling that there was an issue when I looked at putting one of my 2002 engines into Alice (E30) before I sold her to Westy.

    I'm running an E12 block in my 2002. There are a couple of minor differences between it and a 2002 block (ie dipstick location) but if you can get an e30 block into a 2002 it should also go into a E12.

    You may also want to note that the E30 uses a smaller clutch than the E12, you'll probably want to change the flywheel.

    Have a look at the www.2002faq.com forum, lot's of people have used E30 bits for their 2002's their experiences should be also applicable to E12's

    Thanks for that! I will look further in to it

  7. So the dirty hotrodder has got a case of the restorer disease huh

    Thought it was too good to rod

    Good one Save it for the younger generation so they can appreciate how cars should be and not made of plastic.

    Yeah, I've always liked classics but never thought I would end up wanting to restore something. I think it drives rather well for such an old girl, slower than a wet week in a kayak though and makes some terrible noises

    Should bolt up Ok, I've done it the opposite way (a 318 manifold on to a 2L M10) You may have to also change the front coolant housing as the E30 one may interfere on the carbs

    You'll probably also have to change the sump and the oil pump.

    Note the distributors of E12 & 2002 rotate the opposite direction to E30's If you're going to use the E30 dizzy then you'll have to grab the E30 ignition module and associated wiring. (probably a worthwhile exercise) If you're planning on using the E12 dizzy then you'll have to change the cam shaft.

    I'm not certain but the E30 block also may lack some of the threaded bosses required to attach the engine mounts.

    I think I would be better off ripping the 2.0 apart and seeing how glazed the bores are and how munted the bearings are. I'm not sure if I'm getting clutch thrust bearing noise or a bit off big end, there is a rumble when I bring the revs up. Good fun!

  8. Good luck with the e12 mate (you picked it up from my place yesterday) Should be nice with some tlc.

    Cheers, ah yes I recognize the e30 and e36 in your pics. Shes begging for a rebuild from what I can tell :ph34r: .

    But I will do a service just to check [don't have and leak down testing stuff at home or a compression tester] May have to track down another m10...I see you are stripping some 318s? Got a reasonable m10?


  9. Wanting a 2.0 m10 for the e12 520, the rings are poked on this one :unsure: Just a long block will do. Also a radiator [if the price is right] it's 400mm wide by 500mm tall by 65 thick. Top hose on the left, bottom hose on the right.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated guys and gals.

    I have decided to restore it instead of throwing the 350 chev in it, it's far to nice to put a boat anchor in and do skids.


  10. I picked up the e12 today from bemagirl, blo*dy stoked with it!

    Fixed the shifter sandwich plate as soon as I got home [missing one bolt and a nut] so that involved dropping the prop shaft off the box. Fixed the indicators, a few more of the lights. made a vain attempt to see rust in the dark. Gave her an oil change and cleaned the plugs. The airbox wasn't on quite right [i'm a pedantic prick] so I removed that and fixed the rubbers to the carbs also.

    As I said I'm stoked


  11. Welcome!

    My first bike was a Spada. They're neat little machines.

    Sounds like your car is going to be... interesting.

    The spada isn't anything great really but as far as a two fifty twin goes then there's no other bike to choose, rather lame compared to the bros650 I had before it though.

    Yeah, I picked up the e12 today, blo*dy stoked with it!

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