richard.pykett

Drown it in CRC, walk away (overnight), refit the tool, crank it up and then warm the alloy with a heat gun. My old BJS would not fit so I bought a Toledo from Tool and Industrial Supplies at the end of Harris Road East Tamaki.

Progress on the roof spoiler and start to the boot sheetmetal, dry sump tank, fuel cell etc... https://www.facebook.com/pages/Elan-Motorsport/662026323873874?tab=public&view Cheers Richard

Well done for seeing the light Martin! Poxy Audi's, We have 2 x 1 Series (a 135ms and a 1M) both are great drives. If you feel you need an LSD, Kayne Barrie at Kayne Barrie Motorsport is the man to speak with. 0274 975 330. Cheers Richard

Change of plan for the E21. Bought this new from Cardwells, but it's not going to work now with the planned steering column. Wilwood part number 340-11299. Overhung reverse mount, balance bar etc.. Retail is $388, let it go for $250. Unused and still in original packaging. Pickup Manurewa, but would freight at buyer's expense.

Thanks Cam - sorry only just read your post. Wow, you have thought quite a bit about this! You are way ahead of where I'm at and I have much to learn in this area. We should talk more about this later on. I was pretty much going to talk to a tuner (thinking Hans at E&H Motors) with experience with the Link and also the TTI gearbox and do what they said. Is this for your 02?

That would be Mike Delmont on low boost on a bad day

Hmm... We originally wanted to do the build with an N/A S54 to have revs similar to the original M12 2.0 (well close anyway) but costs looked like they would spiral by the time we brought a possibly dodgy one in and rebuilt it. We would be restricted to probably 400hp tops, likely less with our small budget. Our boys convinced me that after driving the 1M, a turbo would be OK provided it was loud enough and revved. We know that the m50 nv 2.5 will go to 7500 or possibly 8000 with solid lifters, so close enough and it can make up to 1200 hp if you are Scandinavian. But we have the issue of it being a cast crank. Kayne Barrie has been in my ear about rod/stoke ratio and a longer rod is better for a number of reasons. With special turbo pistons we can get a 140mm rod in there and with the 84 throw 2.8 crank, the rod ratio is 1.66 (ideal is apparently 1.7 or greater according to the gospel of KB). If we go to the even longer stroke 3.0, the rod may need to be shorter than 140 to leave enough meat above the piston pin in order to get a reliable piston. Rod/stroke ratio then goes down to 1.56 with the 140 rod and 1.5 with a 135 rod. Logic might be flawed somewhere, but we think that the 2.8 will be more of a rev box

Thanks Tony - E46 it is. I'll need to add a lump of something to the block. Idea is that if this can be done, I'd set the alloy block up in the mill and tram the CPS hole etc... then remove it and substitute the cast iron block without disturbing the setup, then bore and face the hole for the TPS. How hard can it be...??? Just need a toasted e46 2.8 bottom end now. Cheers Richard

CJ, what do you want for the engine if you still have this? By all means send me a PM Cheers Richard

Thanks for this Tony. So sounds like we need an E36 2.8 crank if we stay with the current M50 crank pulley/damper/CPS, or we need to pick up a an E46 2.8 block, crank, pulley and CPS if we are to reverse engineer this into the M50 block. Anybody have a buggered E46 2.8 block etc...please?

Thanks Steve - the Oracle as always.

Thanks Steve. Wasn't so much the control I was concerned about (so ignore the OBD2 reference) more just what do I need to do to fit a smaller harmonic damper to the M50 and dodge some of the heat soak from the turbo. I see pictures from overseas, supposedly of M52 2.8 cranks, which have the internal trigger wheel found on later OBD2 engines. I know that the M54 has this arrangement, but wasn't sure that we saw an M54 2.8 version here, only the 3.0 (realise we had 2.0 and 2.5). Don't think we want to increase the stoke to 3.0, so 2.8 is still the preferred option with a 140mm rod and suitable low comp piston. So need to find a 2.8 crank with the internal trigger wheel, unless you have some other weasel cunning plot?

OK, so I have an M50B25 nv engine for the E21 Group 5 project - usual stuff, crank position sensor on the front cover. We want to go to a 2.8 crank, so that we can rev the thing higher for longer than we could with a 2.5 cast crank (600hp or so 7500 - 8000 rpm turbo). Through trying to get the turbo mass as low as possible, I've ended up with lots of hot turbo pipes which sit quite close the the giant toothy crank pulley thing. If the engine were converted to an OBD2 crank, the trigger wheel would then be internal on the back end of the crank. This would mean we would have a smaller pulley/harmonic balancer up front - further away from Murchies nasty hot turbo. This means munching a very accurate hole at the back of the block and probably adding a lump of metal by some fair or foul means, to the back of the block so that it could be suitably bored and tapped for the CPS. I think I have the process nutted out for this. So what I need to know for all you Oracles/Obewan Kenobis out there is: Which M5x 2.8 crank has the integral crank position trigger wheel? and Is there an M5x iron block with the internal CPS option. (I think only M3??) Many thanks chaps and chapesses. Cheers Richard

They no nuffink overseas...

Steve, you are not nicking my idea that I nicked from you are you???? A four banger a bit easier to form the cone hopefully

Hi Lionel Are the rears from an E39 540 of any use here? Nice alloy caliper and the rears I think are 298x20 ish... Cheers Richard

Dumb idea number 423... Wondering about fitting the smaller crank pulley from the M52 with the rear block mounted OBD2 crank position sensor, to the M50. There will be some gluing /welding and machining involved I know. I need an alloy block and crank to have a play with please. Guess that it could be any 6 cylinder, but need to end up with a 2.8 crank for the final build. Ideally would have the crank sensor and front pulley. Block can be stuffed. Auckland area please, cheaper the better as none of this may work. Thanks Richard

More progress on the headers https://www.facebook.com/pages/Elan-Motorsport/662026323873874?tab=public&view Cheers Richard

Tom Taylor of Taylor Automotive in Auburn St Grafton - 377-8404. Tom is a clever old fart who has seen everything and does this sort of shitty stuff day in day out. He can come to you if need be and may be able to fix it in place. Give him a call on Monday and I'm sure he will be able to fix it for you. Cheers Richard

Some progress on the headers https://www.facebook.com/pages/Elan-Motorsport/662026323873874?tab=public&view Cheers Richard

Thanks Glen. Dunno why you over cut, but every post I read on the subject said you had to. Did the first ones on water pipe and at 60, they were way off at the pointy bit. Cut the second practice one at 62 and was fine. No doubt my youngest who has just started engineering at Auckland Uni, will be able to explain it to me shortly. Four into ones - cut at 92 also. Started the snakes today and it looks much harder than I thought it would be. Hopefully I haven't backed myself into a corner with the turbo placement and exhaust outlet.

Start made on the headers.. https://www.facebook.com/pages/Elan-Motorsport/662026323873874?tab=public&view

Hi Blair Not sure if you are still looking for bits here, but spotted this on Race Cars in Sheds. A firm in the UK makes adapter plates for BMW V8's to the 6 cylinder boxes. Just 250 quid. https://www.facebook.com/ErgenLtd?fref=photo. I still have the M3 box for sale. Cheer Richard.

Hi David. What about a 6 speed M3 box? Been checked by Kayne (but not modified). Cheers Richard

Dual Plenum intake is now finished. https://www.facebook.com/pages/Elan-Motorsport/662026323873874?tab=public&view