richard.pykett

Hi Darren. Do you know what ratio the diff is please? - Richard 021 991 900.

Thanks Dan - spoke with Kayne on Monday morning, but he was a bit dazed and confused after the Targa and the Hampton on Sunday. I'll go back to him once he has caught his breath. Brent - thanks for this. Already have the LSD which I gather is in a 7 series case. Just need the ring and pinion or a non-LSD diff head to rob the parts from.

Hi folks. Anybody got a large case 3.9 ring and pinion (or non LSD diff) please? Think it can be any flavour other than E39? Further research seems to point to the E34 535 auto being the most plentiful source. Just bought a large case LSD with a 3.45 which will means we are doing about 400mph at Hampton. I'm going to need incontinence pants as it is... Many thanks Richard 021 991 900 [email protected]

Hi Jonathan. I'm looking for a bellhousing from a Jatco. How much do you want for the trans? Thanks Richard 021 991 900

Hi Duane. You don't by any chance have a busted auto? Just need a bellhousing. Think Jatco or GM have detachable ones. Thanks. Richard 021 991 900.

Thanks Tyler - price is about right, but the freight might kill it! I'm sure there are a few in Auckland round the back of the shed with weeds growing over them.

Stupid idea number 473... Looking for a just the bellhousing from a Jatco autobox from a 4 or 6 cylinder E36. I may be wrong, but I think there may be a difference in length between the 4 cyl and 6 cyl bellhousings. Ideally I would end up with both to play with if they are different. Auckland area please and even better if around South Auckland. Update - looks like the GM box may also work. What do you have lying around the back of the garage? Many thanks - Richard 021 991 900 https://www.facebook.com/pages/Elan-Motorsport/662026323873874?tab=public&view

Hi Brad This is what we are doing for our E21 Group 5 replica (https://www.facebook.com/pages/Elan-Motorsport/662026323873874?tab=public&view). Base engine is a NV M50 and will be doing all of the forged internals for longevity. I gather however that lots of people are getting 500hp+ on stock M50 internals, just with a thick head gasket. A lot will depend on what you want the engine to do. We are keen on a nasty sounding revvy engine and want around 600 flywheel HP and 8000 rpm, so will be sticking with the 2.5 crank for a shorter stroke and running 290 degree cams (I think). Steve Murch knows plenty about these engines and turbo setups and is guiding us with our project. I think Steve's current development engine is all stock internals, but he has a fully built motor waiting to go in. He will know. We thought about the 2.8 crank just from a forged perspective - and they are cheap, but this puts the rod/stroke ratio below 1.7. I understand that there is an advantage to having a larger number in this area. https://www.facebook.com/pages/Steve-Murch-Motor-Sport-Engineering/255636937679

Please help me clear out the shed of some of the bits we are not going to use on the E21 spaceframe. E39 540 front crossmember, steering box and all arms, swaybar etc... Car had rear damage, so all of this should be straight. E39 540 auto diff, large case 3.18 E39 540 auto driveshaft complete and tidy E39 528 rear axles, very tidy, no leaks good boots. E21 M20 complete power steering kit - rack, pump, reservoir E21 M20 Auto driveshaft E21 M20 Auto radiator E21 M20 Manual radiator Give me a bell on 021 991 900 or a PM. Pickup Manukau area. Thanks

Yep, power steering, engine oil leaks and the two stage fan resistor. Fan is an easy fix with bits from Jaycar, oil leaks more troublesome. My boys have two R53's (youtube nzkarter52) and we finished up with a full engine rebuild at 120kms chasing an oil leak on the older one. Not sure what sort of life it had had previously, but when we took the head off we found that the gasket had fretted on the block and when we decided to skim the block deck and check out the big ends, we found that they were all shot. Genuine bits are hideously expensive for shells etc... ($35 for half a shell) but the canny Tom Taylor of Taylor Automotive fitted Mazda piston rings and some obscure Izuzu shells for bugger all. Now runs really well and is great to drive. Later Peugeot turbo engines seem to have a habit of dropping valve seats. We have done heaps of little mods to both cars and the boys would be happy to share if you do end up with an R53. - all the best R

Hi Graham - thanks for the lead to Walloth and Nesch. They have quite a few bits for the E21 and the roof skin at probably under $1000 is an option. Thanks for researching this for me. Richard

Nasty job... but a good thing to do. The E21 donor car for our spaceframe turbo has a sunroof and like most of the early ones (my 633 is the same) the sunroof cassette sweats under the skin. This is what causes them to rust out from the inside. The cassette itself is difficult to remove without making a mess of the remaining skin. There are a number of spot welds which need to be drilled out and then the welds at the back of the cassette which joint it to the roof rails, cut through. The sealer/adhesive between the cassette and the roof skin comes off easily enough. It's a good chunk of weight lost. We are still in two minds as to whether we wheel a steel patch and weld it in or trim the skin back to 50mm of the gutters, step the edge and make an alloy skin to bond in. If you can get a new roof skin, that would definitely be the easiest and cleanest way to go. A new E21 roof skin is probably not available now for our project. In the old days we would have just found a good donor roof and chopped it through the pillars and welded it on. Blocks under sills before cutting in both cases....

Looks like I have a block and sump now, but would be good to have a scrap head to complete the mockup and not have to split up my good engine. Head can be bare, prefer Non-Vanos 2.5 if possible. Auckland area if poss. Thanks - Richard.

Thanks Brent, but needs to be M50. Long story, but I have a good E34 M50B25 (nv) as the future race engine, but wanted to convert the sump to the rear. Got given an E36 sump, pickup and windage tray, swapped the E34 sump for some missing suspension bits, but then found that I had no mountings for the E36 windage tray in the E34 block. Hence now trying to source an E36 block or cooked engine that I can use for a mockup and then swap the blocks later on. I will talk to you about that 2.8 crank you have later on, as I'm still leaning towards a forged crank for the likely HP.

Bare M50 2.5 block or bare M50 2.5 cooked engine. Prefer Auckland please. Needs to be E36 with rear sump. Thanks - Richard 09 268 4140.

Hi Tim I have just swapped this gear with Ray at Hell BM - he will be able to help (E34 M50B25)

Hi For my sins I have a 2005 Audi A6 Wagon, bought at 4ks as an ex demo. Should have gone with the 530, but thought we were going to relocate to Queenstown, so the 4wd was attractive. The front shocks failed a WOF at 60kms and both Contis and EMD said get stuffed. I then started to have similar issues to what you describe. Was OK for perhaps 20 mins but then just scalding hot air from the drivers side vent. The Audi technical bulletin fix was a heater control valve replacement at many hundreds of dollars. I eventually found a thread on repairing the valve. Not sure what system the E34 uses, but the Audi has a mixing valve just in front of the firewall which has two poppet valves (one for each side of the car?) controlled by solenoid coils. The issue is that for some reason the poppet valves end up with a tiny bit of tar like varnish on the pistons and this causes the piston to stick in the 'boil the driver' mode. Removing the tops, coils and poppet valves and cleaning the pistons (I used a small ultrasonic bath that we used to use for Kart carbs and then some Solvol Autosol) did the trick. Hope this helps Richard

Hi Richard I may be able to help around that time. I have just built one for the E21 project (away getting blasted on it today at Atomic Strip) ad now that it has undergone 'spec creep' to a full spaceframe, once the spaceframe is done and the vestigial body re-mounted, there should be a time when it doesn't need to be on the rotisserie for a few months. I'm also going to have a tube bender sitting around at the same time (new Pro Tools 105 with roll cage dies. Would be prepared to hire out either to recover some of the costs. I can post a picture of the rotisserie later in the week when the E21 returns. Cheers Richard 09 268 4140

or a wailing 6 with a carbon airbox....

Just had a guard stripped by Stephen at Atomic - 100 Princes Street Onehunga, 09 36 8698. Looks pretty good and on the strength of that they now have the E21 shell for the racecar which is going to be dipped this week to kill the termites, etched inside the box sections and then blasted and coated with Epiphos. Not sure if they do bead blasting which is probably more what you need for a painted alloy casting (m50). On the subject of M50 valve covers, how do people normally refinish them? Ours is the grotty NV faded gold and will need the same treatment one the build is finished.

Hi Mojo Eurotech Auto Repair Centre in Sylvia Park Road Mt Wellington turn out consistently high quality work. They do many many BMW's (situated just near BMW NZ) and are the only A grade Jaguar authorised repairer in NZ. They will be able to help and I'm sure you will be pleased with anything that they do. Dave Dumelow (petrolhead) is the Paint Shop manager. They have courtesy cars available if you need one. Let me know how you get on if you do use them. Website is http://www.eurotechauto.co.nz/ and phone is 09 573 1094

Hmmm... The bits are piling up on the floor for the E21 Turbo spaceframe. I now have a non-vanos 2.5 engine complete (thanks Grant Scheuber) and Steve Murch donated an E36 sump from a scrap 2.0 so that I have the desired sump lump at the rear. Steve also gave me the pickup and the E36 baffle plate/windage tray. So far so good, but the issue is that my 525 M50 doesn't have the 8 mounting bolt holes in the block for the E36 windage tray. Anybody have an M50 E36 2.5 block lying around for not much money? Or a cooked bare engine (head, block, sump)? Auckland would be good please. Thanks - Richard. Mob- 021 991 900

320/6 radiators - 1 x manual, 1 x auto $10 each Rear beam, trailing arms and drum brakes $20 Steering rack and P/S pump, probably have hoses and oil reservoir as well $25. Brake booster $10 Richard 021 991 900 Thanks.

Thanks Andy - Ray from Hell BM was first to respond and he has the other bits we need as well - R

Hi folks. Have recently purchased an E34 2.5 nv engine for our E21 turbo spaceframe project. The lump in the sump is at the front and I think we should be looking for a rear sump option. Does anybody know which bits I should be looking for? Would be happy to sell/swap the current E34 sump and pickup if this is of use to somebody. Many thanks - Richard.