Slavvy

Specifically, facelift (post-83) e24 front bumper bracket (and bumper, has to be the 635csi sort), a driver's side window, some headlight parts, rear bumper. Anyone scrapping one of these?

I need a clutch pedal (and preferably a brake pedal, but not bothered without one) for an 87 635csi. I bought some ex germany via BMWarehouse, but they don't fit and appear to be identical to early E28 pedals? This makes me think that later E28 pedals might fit. If anyone has anything like this, please PM me or contact me on 0 2 1 14 4 3 0 8 6

This is a specialised clutch workshop that gets oursourced to by all sorts of places. And it's costing me 200, not 45.

The most vital issue here is this: if I fit the clutch and it malfunctions somehow, who gets the blame? BnT will claim that since the parts were modified, any guarantee on their part is void. I'm certain Autoclutch would insist that it was installed incorrectly and no fault of theirs. I don't want to get stung if it doesn't work, as then I'd be down a 600 dollar clutch kit and 200 dollars of labour, and still not have a car that drives. I can't visit them in person because I work during the week and they aren't open Saturdays.

I just called them asking why they did the work without telling me about it first; in response the guy repeatedly told me to quit whining and eventually hung up on me. Don't really know what to do at this stage :/

I'll keep that in mind. Seems vaguely illegal that they did the work without asking me first though. What if I had wanted to take the clutch back to BnT because it was wrong? I can't anymore since they've fooled around with it.

Why wouldn't it take the power of the m30 when it is a clutch for an m30? It's what I was sold when I asked for a 87 635csi clutch...I don't want it to end up not working at all because they've messed it up somehow.

Some time ago I bought a single mass flywheel for an m30 (it looks like an m10 fw but with a larger front area). Recently I picked up a clutch kit to match it from BnT, and since the flywheel was old and abused I took it to AutoClutch to get surfaced; I gave them the clutch kit as well just in case. I was quoted around $45 to surface the flywheel. Today I got a call back from them, and the guy told me that 'it never would've worked if you had just fitted it because you had a south african pressure plate and a UK friction plate etc etc', which means I now owe them about $230, because they not only machined the flywheel but took apart the pressure plate and fooled around with it. They never asked me beforehand if they could do this. Do I just suck it up, fork out and learn my lesson the hard way, or is there something else I can do? It doesn't seem right that I have to pay over $200 after expecting to pay 45 without being told beforehand. Plus, if I fit the clutch now and it malfunctions, I have the feeling they'll tell me it was my fault if I try to blame it on them. The clutch kit was very expensive and I hate the thought that it's been ruined. Does anyone have any prior experience with this company or these parts?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-315734813.htm This person is auctioning an 'Alpina 635csi' cylinder head. Is this massively over-priced as I believe, or am I missing something? It seems no different to a regular big-port m30 head, except the combustion chambers appear to be the lowest compression of any I've seen; there are no squash zones visible at all. How would this in any way be beneficial/worth the astronomical price? The valves aren't any bigger than normal from what I can see (I could be wrong about this though). Can anyone shed any light on this at all?

Half a turn on the wheel for minor corrections...must get pretty light up front when the turbo starts taking off.

Hrm...might have to pull the sump off and swap them out then. All of them torqued up perfectly without issue, and the engine is reasonably low km's. I'll have to look into this further.

I didn't, should I have? I dont know how to remove the bolts from the rods anyway, they didn't push out...

Brilliant, thanks a lot guys. Just wanted to make sure before the motor went in the car.

Simple question here. I recently put together an m30b34 and I put everything together according to factory specs. I took great pains to do everything perfectly and overall, I'm quite pleased with the result (fingers crossed it doesnt blow up ). I read something about big end bolts coming loose after x amount of miles (not specifically relating to bmw engines), and that certain cars specify having to re-tighten them after 1000km's. I can't imagine doing this with an m30 in a car because of the sheer P.I.T.A. factor, but now I'm nervous about my engine disintegrating after a few thousand km's. Is it a good idea to whip the sump off, take out the oil pump and re-do them with loctite, or will it be ok the way I did it (cleaned, oiled, BMW torques)?

Maybe your lifters are too tight? Are you sure the cam can spin freely, or maybe you've left something loose in there? Having one of the cam cover bolts missing can also make it sound that way, the hole acts like a resonator and magnifies the sound (ask me how i know haha).

Alright, after much delaying and running around I went hard yesterday and got the car done. Set the timing, flushed the oil, bled the cooling system etc etc and now it runs! It even drives! Unfortunately, there's one last nagging issue. When it sits there idling the idle surges rhythmically between about 500rpm and 1500 rpm...if I unplug the MAP sensor or TPS it idles perfectly, and if everything is plugged in it drives perfectly. It works fine in every respect, except for the idle surge. I'm not particularly familiar with hondas and I don't really know what the cause could be. I'm 100% certain there are no vacuum leaks, unplugged sensors or other issues. Everything looks to be fine. Does anyone know what the issue could be?

Cirrusblau, which seems to mean a metallic grey-blue that looks utterly brilliant when you cant see the flaws in the paint

Pffft, not a highline! All that weight made them pretty slow. True on the bodykits though, trying to apply that square blocky testarossa/countach sort of styling to the shark shape really doesn't work.

They got soooo close but the body coloured kidneys and grille kills it. Yet to see any old BMW with one that doesnt look stupid.

I'm doing the labour myself so that isn't really an issue, however it's nice to know a B series will bolt in. This might turn out to be a viable option if the engine shop tells me the head is full of cracks. The rest of the engine is in pretty good shape, all of this will only end up costing him around 250 dollars. That's accounting for leak testing and skimming, cost of head gasket (already bought previously), and miscellaneous stuff like new oil and filter, seals etc.

You'd do an engine transplant that isnt quite bolt-in on someone else's daily driver?

I've yet to meet a Laurel/Cefiro owner who didn't seem mentally impaired in some way...

I've got a few container straps, I've repeatedly used them to tow cars and hoist an engine out of a car, they're the sort of straps they use to tie things down on the backs of trucks etc.

A dreadfully boring little car made for old women to save petrol with edited for some bmw-related content, david and goliath shot:

Well my friend's 96 civic decided to act like it had a blown headgasket. After a HUGE amount of fooling around with people who didn't know what they were doing, he finally just gave in and trucked it to me, so here I am picking up someone else's mess. The idiot who started -but didn't finish- pulling the head off decided to undo the headbolts going from left to right, bottom row first. So the car sat with one side of the head under full pressure, and the other loosened off. Furthermore, noone thought to drain the coolant from the motor, so when I finally pulled the head off three of the bores were little green swimming pools. The factory head gasket is a multi-layered steel jobbie and has no breaks anywhere, so I'm currently assuming that the head warped due to overheating (the car overheated a couple of times right at the start of this debacle), and this let the gasket delaminate very slightly and allow coolant to start getting sucked into the cylinder. Note: there was next to no oil contamination, the breach is only from the cooling system to the combustion chamber(s?). Furthermore, the head has no visible cracks, so the plan now is to strip it, send it away for leak testing, then have it skimmed. I'll rebuild it, stick it back on the motor and see what happens. Here's some pictures, I'll update this when I take more pics or make any further progress. edit: posted this here cause I didn't want to clutter up the bmw areas with this stuff.