740i_Lou

Oh really? Was going to be ringing BMW with the part number on Monday. Really need the car back on the road asap as I need to go up north next weekend. Which Merc dealer did you use?

Damn. Just broke my nipple off this arvo trying to get the hose off to install a new one. Was the last peice of the puzzle before my car was back on the road. God I hope I can find one localy.

I'll just have to try the dealer in the morning. Need the car back on the road for sunday

Needing it tomorrow. Where are you located? Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk

Need the whole plug. Snapped the head off when I removed it. Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk

Everything's back together and the engine seems to be running fine. Stuck some new spark plugs in while I was in there and cleaned everything up when it went back together. Flushed the coolant system out but as I was putting the drain plug back in, she snapped off inside. Managed to get the broken shaft out with some easy outs sweet as but on the hunt for a plug now so I can get some fluids back in.

Wheres the easiest place to buy a radiator bung from? Do I need to go to a dealer or can I get one from repco/supercheap?

Cheers for that. The clicking seems to have stopped. I ran the engine for a while and it went away. Kinda strange. I'm going to clean all the plugs tomorrow as the ASC light keeps coming on.

Put my 740 back together after doing the waterpump/pipes/rocker gaskets and a few bits and pieces but when I connect the battery, there is a clicking noise coming from the heater valve/pump on the firewall near the ECU box. There are no engine check lights and the car starts fine. I turn the heater on and whenever it clicks it will turn off and back on again. Any idea's as to what I? should be checking? A sensor somewhere I may of left unplugged?

Did it not come with wiring diagram?

Same reason I did the textured black. I didn't bother coating the inside of mine. Will see if baking it prior does what I was told. Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk

That goes without saying. My problem, as with OP's stems from the previous owner.

I read that you can stop the oxidation from recurring by baking it prior to coating. Apparently its caused by the engine temp getting up and by heating it up for a period of time you air it out so to speak. Also, I ran some Wynn's brand oil flush prior to doing my covers and the engine still looked like yours. Would be interested to know a better product.

The degreaser? Would i run the engine to temp with the heater on hot?

Half way through doing a cooling system overhaul and just wondering what the best way to clean it out when its back together would be. Is there a cleaner I can mix with water for the first top up before I dump it out and put the proper coolant in?

Cheer's Brent. Already had them coming from Pelican Parts though. Got rid of all the paint flakes and crap that was around the valley pan. Found a tiny wet spot. Wasn't really sure if it was a bit of fluid from when I took off the pump or I had a tiny tiny leak. Rather that have to pull the intake off again later, I got stuck in... Unfortunately, as I was unbolting it one of the bolts sheared off. whats the easiest way to sort this? It sheared off part way down the shank and about 3mm into the hole.

Sounds tasty. Makes me want another LS400.

Finally got the intake manifold out and the water pipe out. Here's the bastard... She crumbles away to powder when you pick at it. And for those interested, a pic of one of the rocker covers reinstalled.

Yeah that's what I ended up doing. Guess fuel hose isn't that expensive given what I've already spent.

Sorry, its actualy the brake booster hose.

Cant seem to get the hose of my PCV off. trying to disconnect from near the brake booster but cant pull it off. The clamp is loose and the hose spins freely but it just wont pop off. Any suggestions before I get a knife?

To-do list has also been updated. Has been given an alignment and no longer have to wedge the boot open with a piece of 4x2

Got the rocker covers back from the coaters a couple of days ago. Had them done a textured flat black. A little different from factory but still give a standard look. Looks good with the contrast of the smooth plastic covers. Now that they are back on I will be removing the intake to get at the water pipes. Still waiting on the next shipment of parts. Will upload a couple pictures tomorrow.

As per title Key fob shell for a two button remote. Has the straight blade and was bought for an E38 but should fit other models with the same fob. Key is uncut and Item is new and unused. Same as pictured $15 including postage. Also have a waterpump pully from an M60. Is the 104mm one part number 11 51 1 736 910 Would take $40 including postage.

Maybe if it wasn't fluro green...