tima

A+++ service and parts from Gavin every time. Always a good chat and has a lot of knowledge.

So I did a coolant change and this issue has not come back since. Strange. Must have had an airlock in the solenoid or something.

Thanks Brent, Will give it a go this weekend if I make it out of bed!

Yup ill give the sensors a clean. Anyway to test with a multimeter? *edit* I do not have a temp option on my OBC, Only date time and check control options. Does this mean I do not have an ambient temp sensor? Would a stuck heater valve still open fully and close fully? Cause I still get heat, I have had the stuck valve issue with an E39 and I had zero heat. Like the valve is still actuating. The little vent on the digi control panel on the front? Its free of dust etc but will get the compressor onto it tonight. Cheers

Hi All, (1999 E36 touring, 328I/A, NZ New) I'll say it from the outset, this is not the fan or fan speed regulator. The blower fan is 100% perfect. My issue is heat. It will not regulate heat. -32*c blows HOT air. -31.5*c blows cool non heated air -Temperature slider thingi: makes no difference if on max or mid. I took out the pollen filter and breathed in enough soot to probably get cancer from it. Blew out the filter and put it back in which gave me much better flow. I am not too sure what to check, I suspect it is electrical and a sensor in the HVAC box. The solenoid clearly works as I still get heat and good heat when on max, the system just seems to not know how to control the water flow to regulate heat and seems the solenoid is either open or closed. This is apparent for both climate zones. Now for the curve ball, It seems to do this only in the morning and on the way home from work seems to regulate temperature OK. Maybe this is because the ambient temp outside is warmer and I am not able to identify the variance as well. Any help is appreciated. If someone knows how to fix it I'll buy a box of their poison for the help. I am in Auckland North shore. Side note: I have done 52,000KM in this car in 2 years, Never had a single failure or been left on the side of the road. This is the first thing wrong. Cheers Tim

Could equally be any door then aye.

Hi, My E39 alarm keeps going off at random. They keyboard mechanics of Facebook have not helped much. I have determined a few things. 1: Not bonnet thing as unplugged (Could a short in the cable cause an error) 2: Battery voltage fluctuates between 12.1 and 12.4 volts when car is off. 3: Thing in the roof has not been pulled out yet. 4: Removing the fuse stops it. But i want a working alarm. Any suggestions? Cheers

Update. I pulled the battery out and now it says its 100% empty but still reads 31l on the left like it said on the OBC.

Ill pull it out and give it a good shake about and see what happens. Strange it decides now its time and then both die..

Hi, My e39 540 fuel gauge has stopped working correctly. Started to only report half of what was in there and now i removed the battery to see if it would work and doesn't report any at all. Any suggestions? Cheers

I bet oil loosened it.. I dont have the tools to tighten it aye, Someone raxed my spark plug tool... Ill drop her to the mechanic

You can hear this tap? Cylinder not firing??

May sound impossible. My M62 likes to leak from everywhere, Sometimes i think its actually just seeping through the alloy block. Need to do the rocker cover gasket on both sides because of this lovely issue. I will take it to Causeway Automotive on Barry Point road, (My favourite mechanic) Would i be looking at under 600? Cheers

I would buy one for a samsung

Hi, http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=754133056 Bit of a dump from my auction: 1993 BMW E36 325I Coupe. Good body condition, All panels are straight. Interior is OK, Seats are well worn. Door cards were redone as with head lining. Engine is excellent and has low KMS. Had a FULL service from CauseWay motors with a check sheet. New oil (Mobil Super S), Filters (Genuine BMW) All CV's brakes, hubs, bearings suspension PASSED. Defects as per sheet: Right tail light (Fixed) Washer Jets (Fixed) Left Lower Arm (Fixed) Rear tire wall (Needs 1 new tire before WOF) Defects: Driver seat has a tear, Dent in front end. (as pictured) Comes on M3 alloys as pictured, These are genuine BMW mags. Tires are good, Need to replace 1 on rear. Has full tool kit, Spare tire is full alloy with good tire, Has jack and wheel brace. All speakers replaced with factory sizes (JVC's), Nothing chopped. Has domain stereo. (NO CD, has AUX.) Each wheel has a "lock" nut so it cant be taken off without proper fittings (included) All electrics work (AC, Lights, heater, Dual climate control) (Since replaced)No broken switches ETC. Rear lights since replaced didnt have check system built in so shows error when there isnt one. Still have original tail lights, (one is cracked) OBC has no errors apart from, whats said above. Welcome to view, No test drives unless proof of funds. Will come with a full tank of BP 98 Ultimate.

Hmm, I had a quote for paint + everything wired plumbed ETC for 15k with that paint. He will make wide body kit ETC.

Yes, Thats what i am planning for. Looks like a 6 month job. Its going to the metal worker mate of mine and 15k spent on it. I have decided ill get a S54B32 if i can afford it.

Right, I pulled it apart, I dont believe its a bearing due to the fact it will make a woosh sort of rubbing noise you could relate to a dry brake. But i cant see any contact patches that would cause this. It only does it when its warm (not engine temp) So after about 50kms of driving. The more its driven gets worse. The brakes are very smooth and unworn with no ridges and new pads are in it. Could it be half shafts or a UJ? It sounds like the back. We cant feel it at all. Could be related but the from left wheel has stuff ball ends and wiggles left and right. about 4mm so that causes a shudder in the brakes. There is always a shudder in the bakes cause of this.

More targeted at the USA markets.

Wow, Mint.

I have seen this one around. "Yeah g, Does mean skidz, Goes hrd bro, Not thrashed" Not the right words to sell a car with

If i have it foot to the floor in E mode it seems a lot slower than S mode.

Just fixed it actually. Decided to pull the switch apart and CRC it a bit. Found there was some broken plastic lens from the light blocking some of it. Took it out and working mintish now. Should be good for a bit.

What does the winter and e modes do, I know sport holds it in the gear longer.