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Matth5

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Posts posted by Matth5


  1. http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-901721424.htm

    Bet that's the one you're talking about. It's the only one on Trademe, it's been the only 330i coupe on there for a long time... That auction has been ending and coming back up constantly for months

    Know this because I've been watching for a while, been after an E92 for myself.

    BMW doesn't use the 'ci' naming since the E9x series.

    MSport and Coupe are both things that add to the price. This particular one is a very rare combo, haven't seen another 330i coupe in the months I've been watching, only sedans. The fact that this is MSport and manual too is impressive.

    Seen a few 325is though. And of course heaps of 335is.

    I think price is ok but a mechanical inspection would be needed to conform. Maybe not too many people brave enough to rock the the red seats/msport/manual combo and that's why it hasn't sold (I think it looks awesome).


  2. They are very reliable. Spoke with transmission solutions recently and tech said the new product is superior to the vw group dsg. I've had the oil changed in mine recently at bmw and the dealer who told you it's over a grand is bull shitting you.

    They are a wet clutch system so can handle a lot.

    Thanks for that, I'll tell him about them as well, just googled and found their website.

    Yea he was guessing with the price I think, that was before he got quotes, and he's paying for it anyway

    You had yours done at the dealer? Team McMillan? Would be interested to know the cost,can PM me if you don't want to say it in public.


  3. Managed to find out a bit more myself.

    Firstly, the dealer has agreed to have a DCT service performed for me before purchase, he tells me it costs over $1000. New fluid and filter done by a BMW specialist (think he's sending it to Team McMillan but haven't confirmed).

    Found a couple of second hand DCT transmissions online, there's one on Ebay for 3.5k. So having an Autosure warranty that covers up to 5k should keep me safe enough even if I do have total failure.

    Still would love to hear comments from some more knowledgeable people, especially any of the mechanics around here who might have actual experience.

    Allycat, you're right. I've been keeping an eye on Trademe for months and DCTs aren't too common. I've scored a 2010 MSport Coupe, pending inspection and test drive though.

    • Like 2

  4. Considering making an offer on a 335i with DCT. It has over 100 000km.

    Hard to find info on servicing and the issues they have. Seen some crazy prices thrown around but only a handful of issues reported.

    At that mileage should I ask for the fluid to be changed? I know BMW say it's lifetime but to them lifetime probably means the warranty period.

    With clutch replacements and other potential issues, what are the costs like in NZ? I guess the clutches don't really wear but who knows what could go wrong.


  5. Well if the insurance pays out, maybe you could get something a bit different. E9x series, 335i if not an M3.

    Otherwise, there's a fair number of E46 M3s on Trademe, some seem to have been listed for a long time.


  6. That's a shame. Cool car in Hamilton had great service when they did my E46 a couple of months ago. Though prices for servicing parts were rather extortionate. $200 for the AC Drier (USD $34 for a Behr one on Pelican)

    The one on the North Shore has given me ridiculous estimates on two occasions, both times I had the issue fixed for a fraction of the price elsewhere. Would not recommend.

    If it was a BMW I'd say any of the reputable BMW specialists like Bellars would do a fine job.


  7. He must've got it cheap if he's spent $7K and wants $26.5K. He's a dealer so surely wouldn't want to lose on a car.

    Either that or he bought it for himself and the bills keep mounting so he's cutting his losses.

    Don't think you can sell them for much more now. Some E60 M5's are in the low 30's these days.

    Although I find the E39s more appealing somehow...


  8. 2.5 and 3L is a big difference

    If both options are E46's, yes.

    E46 2.5l: 141 kW ; 245 N·m

    E46 3l: 170 kW ; 300 N·m

    E90 2.5l: 160 kW; 250 N·m

    With the E91 you're getting a newer, more modern car.

    Love my E46 but in this situation I'd pick the E91.

    Only thing the E46 has the lead on is power. The E91 will have all the E90 improvements like better seats, handling, maybe you score some nice options like comfort access...

    Although I'm sure you could actually find a much better deal on an E46 330i than that one.


  9. ^^if you really want to look at 318 / 320i E91s maybe. It would have to be a very rough / high miles E91 330/335i M-Sport for that kind of money.

    Heaps of E91 325i's for close to that price...

    http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-851053370.htm

    http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-822632859.htm

    http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-839260436.htm

    http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-867185912.htm


  10. I think I'd lean towards a DCT over a manual if I was in the market for that kind of car. Going for a spirited drive and smashing through gears with the paddles would be great fun.

    I enjoy driving manual and would choose it over the cheaper and/or older style autos that can be slow. But the modern DCTs and fast shifting autos are hard to argue against.

    Knowing how a manual works makes you a better driver because of the understanding it gives you, but driving a manual doesn't necessarily.

    Not having to shift lets you focus on other aspects.

    My own car is manual so when I do drive autos it does throw me off how they move forward as soon as you put them in D, especially the little ones that like to lunge forward quite fast, takes a bit of adjustment whenever you switch. When I drove some new model Holden's, I found those autos pretty decent and I'd be happy with that.


  11. well, i've been reading up and yes, oil consumption/leak is a very common problem. i'm puting in a litre a month on average which is probably too much, given how low my usage is in KMs. just been a bit tied up and busy to having it looked at in detail to find out the real source of the leak. the coolant leak is a funny one though.. it can go for a long time with no drop in level then one day all of sudden i find a pool of coolant on the bottom of the engine bay....

    My car is 16 years oil with visible oil leakage. After an oil change, it took 8 months before the yellow oil light came on.

    Still not sure it even needed that top up as the oil light came on another time from going downhill but a check with the dipstick showed it was fine.

    So yea, that's bad.


  12. That was thru Paul at Milland, new clips and screws too.

    Curious how much you paid?

    BMWorkshop quoted me over $200 for one...

    I ordered one online from FCP Euro. Was about $100 including shipping.

    So stupid that it's cheaper to import parts yourself. Local suppliers are only good for stuff you need urgently...

    • Like 1

  13. And the "emergency door opener"... that breaks as soon as you use it (unless you remember that time you read the manual once), and presumably means you can't get out in an emergency...

    So if you drive it into the sea or a lake, you'll panic, break the tabs in your attempt to frantically open the door, and drown :P

    • Like 2
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