Matth5
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Posts posted by Matth5
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The road from Nelson to Golden Bay. Takes you up this mountain roads up through the clouds and back down. Narrow curvy roads with lots of elevation changes, sheer cliff drops next to the road, like a tarmac rally course almost.
Incredible fun. Can put some serious wear on your brakes, I managed to overheat mine by having a bit too much fun...
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Is this a generic E46 problem or one that's generally limited to the M3? If it's broader than just the M3 how on earth did this happen?
Had it on my 328. Had the subframe replaced and the replacement was heavily reinforced with steel plates for good measure.
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Thanks for the support guys. I will definitely be going through with the purchase. I wouldn't like negative feedback on my trademe account!
I will try it out for a few days or a week and if I don't like it I'll buy the 540i and throw the 530i back up on trademe. It shouldn't be too difficult to get my money back.
Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk
Just pop it on auction again if you don't like it, easy.
Just have a bit of fun with it first.
That 540 being a high mileage auto, I'd wonder how much life is left in the transmission. But hey it's cheap for what you get regardless.
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Around $20 is pretty standard for fitting + balancing I've found. Some places might push it closer to $30.
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If the ambient light is sufficient that you don't need your headlights at that time (why are they on?) then the ambient light is also sufficient that your headlights are not going to cause glare to an oncoming driver.
You either need your headlights on and set to the correct height (read: length) or you don't need your headlights on at all.
The only case headlights at their "normal" height seem to create problems for me is those MF's that drive urban trucks with self leveling HID's and sit on your right hand hip and blind you through the wing mirror. Those lights on those vehicles need to be banned.
It's generally recommended to put headlights on when it's raining, foggy or when the sun has just gone down. Both situations where it maybe helps to be a bit more visible, but you don't need the road ahead it up.
I know I don't really need them to be on in these situations but it might be a good thing to do. Maybe it's pointless, but it's harmless
Agree with you on those trucks. Some people have annoyingly bright lights and maybe what I'm doing is just trying harder than I need to in order to not be like them.
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If the headlights are down and they note that then you simply adjust them there and then and the WoF guy will cross that note off there and then. No drama.
As for those that use that adjustment to prevent ("reduce"?) glare then you're holding it wrong. At the correct hight there should be no glare so never a need to adjust. If your headlights cause glare at their 'normal' position then that position is wrong.
The in cabin adjustment is there to compensate for carrying loads, that's all.
There will always be some glare when you go over bumps or approach other drivers over crests ect. I don't see the harm in pointing your headlights down to reduce that when you don't need them lighting up the road in front of you.
I know it's not a major thing but hey, I can do it so why not.
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If the headlights are out of alignment due to you having the dial set to point down then thats your fault for running it on the wrong setting.
Regardless of if its adjustable where it is pointing now is unsafe.
Its your job not theirs to use that stuff.
Be happy its an easy fix.
Poor focus can be dirty or faded lens, dirty reflector cone or bulb out of alignment inside the reflector.
Seems silly to say it's the "wrong" setting. There are valid reasons for lowering them if you car has a dial on the dash to adjust them while driving.
If I'm turning them on for the same of just being visible due to rain or dawn/dusk then I lower them. Only raise them when I need them for visibility - at night time.
I do that to reduce the glare for caused to other people.
I imagine if you explained that to the testing officer they'd use their common sense though?
I suppose this is why it makes sense to get a BMW place to do the WOF, since they'd know about things like this. Although headlight adjustments dials aren't exclusive to BMW.
I've never actually used a BMW specialist for a WOF though, might do so next time as I've often had VTNZ pick up little issues and it would just be easier if the place doing the WOF could take care of fixing the issues too.
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That is beautiful.
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Installed the Grom Bluetooth adapter behind the radio.
Bluetooth without an ugly ass head deck for about $150 (bought from the US via Youshop to save on shipping).
Seems to work pretty well so far
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Got my Grom unit and installed it today. Using the kit that goes behind the radio (actually end up tucking it behind the climate control,not enough space behind the radio, but hey that works just as well)
Mic mounts just to the right side of the gauge cluster, seems like a good spot. Can mount it elsewhere but it's fairly simple to route the cable behind the cluster.
Working well so far. Had a few issues until I complete disconnected the CD changer (which is not functional after installing the Grom unit anyway so may as well take it out).
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hey everyone, I want to mount my rear camera and don't want to damage the paint, what sort of double sided tape should I use? Or should I use some sort of mechanical fastening (seems a lot of hassle, and the camera is tiny and light).
Thanks!
Body moulding tape could work?
When removing something from your car that's attached with double sides tape you can use floss or cotton to remove it safely. Then you can clean off the remnants with some meths or something.
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Repolish every couple of years vs $500 lens replacement.
Mine is not a show car so ill stick with polishing
You can get them much cheaper with a bit of online searching. I just ran a simple Ebay search and found some cheaper ones:
Might get good deals if you check FCP Euro and ECS Tuning too.
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Not sure WTF I'm doing wrong, but I used Meguiar's Headlight Correction kit (contains 4 papers with increasing grits but no idea how much each are.. just followed the instructions) - and also contains PlastX and some lens protection solution. I did the following:
Ah, so I'm not alone.
What I found on the E46 lenses is there is some thick clearcoat-type layer on them and the sanding pads do jack-s**t until you use something harsher to get rid of it first. I imagine E39 lenses have the same.
Even then, improvement in the end was not what I'd hoped for, better than before but they still look crap.
I think the pads they give you wear down rather quickly too so I used them up a bit before I sanded off that clear-oat layer.
Wish I saved the money so I could buy new lenses at a later point. If you add up the time and effort you spend, it just makes sense to buy new lenses online from overseas (local prices are probably a joke).
I scored some headlights off Trademe for $1. Was hoping they'd have good lenses but they're in about the same state as mine. At least with a spare set I can safely experiment if I find another idea for them (and having the spare bulbs came in handy when one of mine blew).
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Sometimes you can save on shipping by using Youshop (or similar services). Will help you avoid some rip-offs.
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Just went ahead and ordered the Grom BT kit from the US. I wonder how they compare.
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Exhaust leak wouldn't disappear randomly, it would always make the noise?
Remember my old Falcon when a hole broke in the muffler, driving through a neighborhood at night probably woke everyone up...
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Dave we don't know what the discussion was so we would only be speculating and you would be correct if that was part of the discussion.
I am facing a similar dilemma , I have a quote to do the clutch on the X5 for $4,600
I can buy the same parts via Milland and I would save $1800 , they are genuine parts with exactly the same part numbers including a flywheel.
However the independent BMW specialist I use will not fit them and would not consider sourcing them from Milland.
I don't feel inclined to pay the nasty premium to BMW NZ for parts which they do not hold in stock - the fly wheel from BMW NZ is $2085 - Milland is $1089 exactly the same genuine part with BMW numbers on it.
BUT - who do I get to install it ?
Try these:
HellBM (Silverdale)
Bellars Motor works (North Shore)
Botany Motor Works
Burgers Motor Works (North Shore)
They're all good and reputable places. Seen the guys from HellBM and the owner of Botany Motor Works hanging out on this forum.
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Tell him, "Welcome to the BMW club, get used to it!"
Notice it has the same body kit as mine. Don't see that around much.
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Looks like an RE002 Bridgestone. Assymetrical
Correct
What's a good place in Auckland to get trim wrapped, preferably one that has a good variety of wrap in stock so I can see what it looks like before choosing? Carfolie maybe?
Coolant leak turned out to be the radiator
Bellars Motor works is currently replacing it.
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Done a few things over the past couple weeks...
1. Originally had the OEM chrome tips. One fell off while driving in the city. Replacement OEM ones were at least $100. Ordered a pair of stainless steel tips from Ebay for $30 shipped. Attach on with a metal hose clamp. They're fatter and stick out more than OEM do so I was worried about fitment, but they turned out great.
2. Used shoe polish on plastic trip and those matt black window pillars. Worked like magic, they don't look faded and it's held up fine even when driving in heavy rain. The difference hardly shows up in pictures though.
3. Replaced handbrake boot with a nice one I found online (did the shifter boot a while back and decided to get the matching handbrake one).
Also took apart the drivers door to fix the vapour barrier leak so the moisture absorber sitting there probably isn't necessary any more.
Next step for the interior is to wrap that wooden trip with something, maybe brushed aluminium/steel. Ideas?
I have aluminium pedal covers sitting in my room waiting to be drilled on too...
4. Found it left a green puddle on the garage floor. Expansion tank must have sprung a leak. Right after spending $700 to replace other cooling system parts a week ago
Hope pics aren't too big, I set them to what seemed like a good size.
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Only place I've found redline is BNT, and that's where I got mine (as well as some other redline oils). I'm no tradey either! haha. It's cheaper for a trade account, but they definitely do public too. At least the one in Wellington does.
Or you could get it from trade me http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/oil-additives/auction-779568757.htm
You're right, it definitely can't hurt! I'd say it's good maintenance, and it's not very expensive at all. Go for it
Ah cool, bought one from Trademe. From another seller though as his price was the same but $3 cheaper for shipping:
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=779180075
Will save it for when I'm closer to doing my oil change, probably in a couple months. Already got my new oil and filter.
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I can't answer your other questions, but I can tell you about my experiences with fuel injector/system cleaner
I bought Red Line SI-1 fuel system cleaner. It is considered to be the best fuel system cleaner that is relatively cheap, easily available (In the US), and has the highest amount of polyether amines (PEA) for the price. This is a critical ingredientfor fuel system cleaning. I did quite a bit of research before committing to it. The changes were very minor. The car felt a tiny little bit more responsive, and that was about it. No miracle stories like some people talk about on amazon. I can't say anything bad about it though, I just expected more from it in a 27y/o car that - judging by the condition of some of the filters - wasn't very well maintained before me and probably never had a fuel system cleaner used. Maybe our fuels are of a higher quality than those overseas. I'm not sure
Anyway, if you're going to do it, go with redline. $20 for a bottle (treats 1 tank) from BNT.
Good luck !
Thanks for that
Couldn't find Redline anywhere. BNT only supply trade?
Wondering of one of the other brands at Supercheap/Repco are ok.
I've read some websites/forums saying it's not necessary when using premium petrol as they contain additives that keep injectors clean but I imagine they're not as effective.
I don't expect any improvement, car runs very well as it is, just figured it might be good maintenance.
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Is this worth it for smaller parts? Keen to get some bits like new headlight lenses, windscreen cowl, and other random bits that are usually expensive to order due to shipping.
If so I'll nail down what I want and send you the list.
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Thanks for the answers from my questions not long ago. Had it in for a service at Bellars Motor Works since they were the most convenient for location.
Diagnoses was actually a leaking thermostat but I was told the water pump had excessive play in the bearing.
Thermostat, WP, upper hose and expansion cap replaced for $710 all up.
Left the other stuff for now as the shop said I should deal with this first.
Got a leak through drivers door for ages and finally figured where it's leaking through, not the door seal but the door itself, vapour barrier must have a leak.
Do you guys use fuel injector cleaners at all? The ones that you put in your fuel tank. On US forums some say it's good to do at the same interval as oil changes but wondering if the same applies here since our fuel is a bit different?
If so, whats good for BMWs and where can I get it?
1991 E31 850i
in Showroom
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Isn't it risky to lower such a big car? Seen a lowered V8 Falcon bottom out on a rather normal driveway recently, made a nasty metallic clunk.
I do envy your car, love the way it looks. Would buy it if I could. I dream of one with a V10 from the E60 M5.