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Herbmiester

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Posts posted by Herbmiester


  1. My Niece will be getting her licence in July and she has her heart set on a BMW. She will have a bout 3.5k to spend which I think wont be enough to get something reliable. I was thinking about a an E46 sedan. I see some 1 series are cheap but they are all 116i's which dont have a stellar reputation. Is this possible or do I steer here towards a Japanese car or maybe a Golf? What to do think? 


  2. On 1/8/2022 at 8:04 PM, M3AN said:

    I suppose it's a matter of purpose and perspective, for example my 130i is well fast enough, and far too fast for most drivers in NZ based on observed skill. Nobody really needs even a 300 horsepower car unless they're heading to the track and I don't see the OP mentioning track usage.

    A tune to 130 spec will provide a meaningful (and manageable) improvement, beyond that is totally unnecessary for a daily.

    I had a 400+hp Evo IV and a (nearly) stock 6.5, the latter was the better drive (by quite some margin) on essentially the same chassis. Horsepower is not king.

    Not sure I can agree with this, if a 135i is too fast for most NZ drivers then we should all be driving 1.3 Corollas. 135is are quite manageable and the big boost in mid range torque makes them easier to drive in some respects. Driver control is the key whether is 400hp or 200hp. When the 130i thread popped up on here I was intrigued  so I went and drove a few as I really like the looks and thought it was time to replace the 335i. I was then and still am a wee bit underwhelmed by them especially in direct comparison to a 135i which I also drove. I drive a lot of twisty country roads to get to where I live and there was no difference in handling between the 130 and 135i but torque out of tight corners made the 135i auto both quicker and easier to drive than the 130i which you had to get up it to make it fun. I guess like others here I had a lot of high HP cars so my Stage 1+ 335i never felt anything other than nice. BTW I have had one speeding ticket in the last 15 or so years for going 56 in a 50k zone, I was driving a Toyota Highlander.  

    • Like 1

  3. 13 minutes ago, F10er said:

    I've had a bit of experience with the vacuum systems on the n57. On one vehicle i found there was a check valve in the vacuum line near where it enters the sump. Tried to get a new valve but it was ex Germany (2 month wait) so i ended up disassembling the valve. I found it was full of carbon, (probably due to the ridiculously long BMW service intervals) so i cleaned it and refitted. That fixed the issue. I'll try to find the valve on ETK and get you a part number. Could be worth checking on your car. FYI, i remember it was a real prick to get at the valve, so prepare yourself for some cursing and anger.

    Do you think I could get away with spraying a bit of carbon cleaner into the hose and letting it seep down into the pump? My thoughts are this might displace oil or grease and end up causing even more issues, not sure where the vacuum vents to? 


  4. 1 minute ago, jon dee said:

    Could be.... I know less than nothing about X5's of any species. Th web page from which I obtained that wisdom is labeled as Vacuum pump with tubes BMW X5 3.0sd E70 SAV Europe M57N2.

    But if the 40 in you model code means 4 litres then you probably do have a different engine.

    Cheers...

     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Yeah the M engines are completely different to the N engines. 


  5. 1 minute ago, F10er said:

    I've had a bit of experience with the vacuum systems on the n57. On one vehicle i found there was a check valve in the vacuum line near where it enters the sump. Tried to get a new valve but it was ex Germany (2 month wait) so i ended up disassembling the valve. I found it was full of carbon, (probably due to the ridiculously long BMW service intervals) so i cleaned it and refitted. That fixed the issue. I'll try to find the valve on ETK and get you a part number. Could be worth checking on your car. FYI, i remember it was a real prick to get at the valve, so prepare yourself for some cursing and anger.

    Thanks that  makes a lot of sense, Time to pull the belly pan off.


  6. 17 minutes ago, jon dee said:

    This part 11 66 7 791 232 appears to fit if your vehicle is one of these... BMW X5 (E70) (Year of Construction 02.2007 - 03.2010, 211 - 286 PS, Diesel) 3.0 d, Year of Construction 02.2007 - 09.2008, 2993 ccm, 211 PS, 3.0 sd, Year of Construction 10.2007 - 03.2010, 2993 ccm, 286 PS. And the pump mounts to the end of a camshaft one end of the head :)

    Cheers...

    That looks like an M57 pump not an N57 pump.


  7. 37 minutes ago, jon dee said:

     Was looking at this... https://www.nomaallim.com/brake-vacuum-pump-maintenance.html       as the pump in the article appears to be similar to the type of pump used by BMW on many engines. Don't know if it applies to your E70 though.

    579133271_vacuumpump.png.f8138e6097c7726f161e3ac2afdf8a75.png

    However, if it is this style of pump there does not seem to be any possibility of the vane sticking as both ends are constantly in contact with the wall as it rotates. The tips of the vane have seals, so the possibility of seal wear exists.

    An alternative hypothesis for your issue would be a vacuum leak in the booster. If the check valve is good the booster should still be holding some vacuum after the vehicle has been sitting. Do you get the hard pedal after you have driven enough to get normal braking back and then shut the engine off for a few minutes ? Or do you get normal pedal when re-starting ?

    Cheers...

    I dont think the booster has a leak because when I removed the vacuum hose there was a big hiss indicating I had broken a seal. That said the pedal was still firm-ish. Will check to see if there are any codes just in case there is another issue. 

     


  8. On 1/3/2022 at 2:15 PM, HalfJobHarry said:

    I'm really not trying to be contentious. My key point is, that troubleshooting boost leaks on turbo vehicles is pretty much the same process, I don't personally feel it requires any particularly N54 familiarity. A smoke machine without pressurizing the intake tract is objectively the incorrect procedure, that's all I'm saying. 

    Theory and reality are not always the same thing, as an Auto Sparky I saw this proved over and over again. 

    • Like 3

  9. Hoping someone can shed some light here. My E70 40D has a hard brake pedal when I go to start the vehicle in the morning. When starting it the pedal does not drop down as you would expect and remains hard with what would appear to be no vacuum assistance. When the car is warmed up the fault disappears and I get vacuum assistance again. If I drive with the hard brake pedal I often get a half engine power warning that goes away after about a minute or two, and when it goes away I get the vacuum assistance back again. I have replaced the brake booster seal, where the vacuum pipe enters the booster, and initially this fixed the problem, but now its back again. I am thinking perhaps its the one way check valve but would appreciate any advice. I do find it somewhat odd that when the vehicle warms up the issue goes away. 

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