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Posts posted by Herbmiester
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11 hours ago, Eagle said:Id say yes in general but depends on what type of insert?. I know E30's with Bilstein B6\B8 you do not use any oil due to the design so im guessing E34 would be the same in that regard.
I am using Sach's OEM replacments.
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Just wondering, I read that I am supposed to ad 50ml of oil to my strut housing before inserting my new strut cartridge. Is this correct?
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3 hours ago, Michael. said:Hi John, did you have any luck with this problem? Hoping you found a viable solution in the last 13 months!
Not really, I am probably boing to use amodern fabric that is close but not exact.
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On 1/8/2022 at 8:04 PM, M3AN said:I suppose it's a matter of purpose and perspective, for example my 130i is well fast enough, and far too fast for most drivers in NZ based on observed skill. Nobody really needs even a 300 horsepower car unless they're heading to the track and I don't see the OP mentioning track usage.
A tune to 130 spec will provide a meaningful (and manageable) improvement, beyond that is totally unnecessary for a daily.
I had a 400+hp Evo IV and a (nearly) stock 6.5, the latter was the better drive (by quite some margin) on essentially the same chassis. Horsepower is not king.
Not sure I can agree with this, if a 135i is too fast for most NZ drivers then we should all be driving 1.3 Corollas. 135is are quite manageable and the big boost in mid range torque makes them easier to drive in some respects. Driver control is the key whether is 400hp or 200hp. When the 130i thread popped up on here I was intrigued so I went and drove a few as I really like the looks and thought it was time to replace the 335i. I was then and still am a wee bit underwhelmed by them especially in direct comparison to a 135i which I also drove. I drive a lot of twisty country roads to get to where I live and there was no difference in handling between the 130 and 135i but torque out of tight corners made the 135i auto both quicker and easier to drive than the 130i which you had to get up it to make it fun. I guess like others here I had a lot of high HP cars so my Stage 1+ 335i never felt anything other than nice. BTW I have had one speeding ticket in the last 15 or so years for going 56 in a 50k zone, I was driving a Toyota Highlander.
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For the price premium you pay for a 130i manual you are into 135i auto territory. The big torque curve of the 135i works a lot better with the auto than the the 130 in my humble opinion.
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LHD and questionable past really put me off. Prefer my 540is even though its not as fast or potentially desirable.
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Wow best 130i I have seen. GLWS.
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I gather the check valve is in the bottom of the hose that goes into the block?
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Ah I see now, thanks for that.
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13 minutes ago, F10er said:I've had a bit of experience with the vacuum systems on the n57. On one vehicle i found there was a check valve in the vacuum line near where it enters the sump. Tried to get a new valve but it was ex Germany (2 month wait) so i ended up disassembling the valve. I found it was full of carbon, (probably due to the ridiculously long BMW service intervals) so i cleaned it and refitted. That fixed the issue. I'll try to find the valve on ETK and get you a part number. Could be worth checking on your car. FYI, i remember it was a real prick to get at the valve, so prepare yourself for some cursing and anger.
Do you think I could get away with spraying a bit of carbon cleaner into the hose and letting it seep down into the pump? My thoughts are this might displace oil or grease and end up causing even more issues, not sure where the vacuum vents to?
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1 minute ago, jon dee said:Could be.... I know less than nothing about X5's of any species. Th web page from which I obtained that wisdom is labeled as Vacuum pump with tubes BMW X5 3.0sd E70 SAV Europe M57N2.
But if the 40 in you model code means 4 litres then you probably do have a different engine.
Cheers...
Yeah the M engines are completely different to the N engines.
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1 minute ago, F10er said:I've had a bit of experience with the vacuum systems on the n57. On one vehicle i found there was a check valve in the vacuum line near where it enters the sump. Tried to get a new valve but it was ex Germany (2 month wait) so i ended up disassembling the valve. I found it was full of carbon, (probably due to the ridiculously long BMW service intervals) so i cleaned it and refitted. That fixed the issue. I'll try to find the valve on ETK and get you a part number. Could be worth checking on your car. FYI, i remember it was a real prick to get at the valve, so prepare yourself for some cursing and anger.
Thanks that makes a lot of sense, Time to pull the belly pan off.
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17 minutes ago, jon dee said:This part 11 66 7 791 232 appears to fit if your vehicle is one of these... BMW X5 (E70) (Year of Construction 02.2007 - 03.2010, 211 - 286 PS, Diesel) 3.0 d, Year of Construction 02.2007 - 09.2008, 2993 ccm, 211 PS, 3.0 sd, Year of Construction 10.2007 - 03.2010, 2993 ccm, 286 PS. And the pump mounts to the end of a camshaft one end of the head
Cheers...
That looks like an M57 pump not an N57 pump.
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37 minutes ago, jon dee said:Was looking at this... https://www.nomaallim.com/brake-vacuum-pump-maintenance.html as the pump in the article appears to be similar to the type of pump used by BMW on many engines. Don't know if it applies to your E70 though.
However, if it is this style of pump there does not seem to be any possibility of the vane sticking as both ends are constantly in contact with the wall as it rotates. The tips of the vane have seals, so the possibility of seal wear exists.
An alternative hypothesis for your issue would be a vacuum leak in the booster. If the check valve is good the booster should still be holding some vacuum after the vehicle has been sitting. Do you get the hard pedal after you have driven enough to get normal braking back and then shut the engine off for a few minutes ? Or do you get normal pedal when re-starting ?
Cheers...
I dont think the booster has a leak because when I removed the vacuum hose there was a big hiss indicating I had broken a seal. That said the pedal was still firm-ish. Will check to see if there are any codes just in case there is another issue.
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42 minutes ago, Herbmiester said:Thanks for that I will try that and see what happens.
Any thoughts on how to clean it? Looking at real OEM I cant quite work out if its a separate unit or not.
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2 minutes ago, dirtydoogle said:It could just be a matter of cleaning the pump, they are a vane type pump as far as I know, so definitely potential for it to stick the vanes when cold.
Have you tried giving it a little rev after start up?
Thanks for that I will try that and see what happens.
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I have trolled the internet but found very little on whey I have no vacuum, I f anyone has any thoughts I would be happy to hear them.
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On 1/3/2022 at 2:15 PM, HalfJobHarry said:I'm really not trying to be contentious. My key point is, that troubleshooting boost leaks on turbo vehicles is pretty much the same process, I don't personally feel it requires any particularly N54 familiarity. A smoke machine without pressurizing the intake tract is objectively the incorrect procedure, that's all I'm saying.
Theory and reality are not always the same thing, as an Auto Sparky I saw this proved over and over again.
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On 1/5/2022 at 8:47 AM, E30 325i Rag-Top said:Auto, non-M Sport, funky colour is a hard sell at anywhere near that asking.
Exactly!
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1 hour ago, aja540i said:I would guess vacuum pump or plumbing.
The pipe I haven't tested is the one off the vacuum pump, its a bit tricky to get too but I guess it has to be done. Fixing/replacing the vacuum pump looks expensive
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After further investigation there is no actual vacuum when the vehicle is first started. I checked the one way valve with a simple blow suck test and it was fine. I then disconnected the main hard line on the passengers side and tested for vacuum, there was none. So the vacuum pump may be at fault?
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Hoping someone can shed some light here. My E70 40D has a hard brake pedal when I go to start the vehicle in the morning. When starting it the pedal does not drop down as you would expect and remains hard with what would appear to be no vacuum assistance. When the car is warmed up the fault disappears and I get vacuum assistance again. If I drive with the hard brake pedal I often get a half engine power warning that goes away after about a minute or two, and when it goes away I get the vacuum assistance back again. I have replaced the brake booster seal, where the vacuum pipe enters the booster, and initially this fixed the problem, but now its back again. I am thinking perhaps its the one way check valve but would appreciate any advice. I do find it somewhat odd that when the vehicle warms up the issue goes away.
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3 hours ago, HalfJobHarry said:Thanks, TRW or anonymous? Was that Amazon.com, and if so could you kindly point me to the seller
Sorry it was 4 years ago, just saying that amazon might be an option.
Can I buy a cheap and reliable BMW?
in General Discussion
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My Niece will be getting her licence in July and she has her heart set on a BMW. She will have a bout 3.5k to spend which I think wont be enough to get something reliable. I was thinking about a an E46 sedan. I see some 1 series are cheap but they are all 116i's which dont have a stellar reputation. Is this possible or do I steer here towards a Japanese car or maybe a Golf? What to do think?