needsprings

Are these still available?

Hey mate where abouts are you located in hawkes bay? I'd be keen on the msport bumpers!

I know it's a long shot, but is there anybody out there with a M3 sway bar for sale?

I'm after an e36 OBD1 body with a blown engine or transmission or even both. Has to be a 6 cyl so either 320 or 325i, and in good conditon. I have cash or a wof reg 325i coupe for swaps. Coupe is solid mechanically but not up to my standards for what I want to do with it in terms of turning it into a show pony.

I'm after a set of e36 front guards, could swap parts from a e36 TI if you're interested. Front end from that should fit a sedan.

Whole new door shell with glass, I have all the other jazz. And yeah been searching trademe but mainly haven't heard back or they're gone. So searching high and low for a set. Maybe someone here is dismantling one? Can't hurt to ask around everywhere possible, not just confining my search to trademe, cheers.

Haha e36 coupe, the three button got stuck.

Anyone selling a set of e36 coupe doors preferably with glass?

Manage to sort it, I'll leave this up and explain in case anyone else comes across this issue. Ended up taking the motor from the links and pulling apart, and just lightly scratching the surface of all the connections. Chucked it in and away it went, must of been a bad connection to the motor when regarding the lower speeds. Might be helpful for someone else in the same boat and not wanting to buy a new motor.

Also to note, when switching out of the fastest speed onto rhe next slowest, the wiper blades stop where they are. Most issues I've found researching this issue seemed to be resolved with the replacement of the module so I'm not to sure to go from here.

So I've picked up an 1992 e36 coupe with a wiper problem, initially I discovered broken wiper links and replaced those. Once I had replaced the links I noticed that the wipers only worked on the fastest setting. But I could hear the relays being activated in the module intermittently as I switched through the speeds (motor was not activated with the relays). So I then replaced the module with a second hand one, and it turns out it changed nothing, and still runs exactly the same. What are the chances that both modules could be faulty in the exact same way, or is it possible that the motor can only work on the one speed? Which I find odd, because if it works on the fastest, why not the rest?

Where exactly is 650km south? ha

So thought I'd update this for when someone else eventually comes across the same situation. The wider ones are to reduce the turning circle on cars with a wider diameter wheel so to produce less wheel rub against the guard liner. Also about $35 NZ per washer sooo yeah. Otherwise they do the same job. Just thought I'd put it out there for the next guy.

So finally everything arrived for the tie-rod replacement, even the lock washers. So I got put the car on some stands, slide the boots accross. And it turns out I've ended up wit the wrong kind of locking washers. These are what I have just received to do the replacement with. 32111136526 But these are what is currently on there. 32111140464 They are near the same bar the 3mm gapping. But I believe they are used on M-sport suspension. Would it be fine to use the ones I received? Cheers.

Not sure if this is where this topic belongs but, cheapest place to get a couple small holes in an exhaust welded up for wof. Or even if someone is keen on here is ken on a cashy. Cheers.

As per tittle. Just seeing if anyone has anything floating around they don't need anymore, prefferabley in decent condition cheers.

Anyone have any information on the brand Hans-Pries?

Yeah I'm in contact with Milland atm. Just comfirming what brand they have in stock, although they do not sell without the inner part aswell. But I'm not too phased.

Wof man says both outer tie-rods need replacing so it is then. Where's the best place to source quality tie-rods in NZ, probably going steer well clear of supercheap products. And hoping to not pay the stealership more than their worth. Cheers.

How well/easy does the manual transmission from a m50b25 bolt up to a m52bxx? Is it it the realm of just a straight swap or is there some fine tweaking involved somewhere? I know it's probably already been asked, but google just inundates me with m50 manifold swap threads. Cheers.

Ahhh thanks guys, was looking for ways to pep up the 323, but nothing seemed feasible really. I'm not to phased on insurance, and yeah I've thought abit about suspension side effects and just figured the difference would be negligible. What about manual conversion? I know most people don't get certs, and pass their wofs just fine. But with the 323i I'm not actually sure if they came out factory manual, at least if they did they don't seem very common at all. I'm thinking that would could be a slight hindrance. Thanks for the input aswell!

This might not so much be a question of legality, but if one had a m52b28 engine in a m52b25 body how likely is this to fail or get picked up on a general WoF check? My understanding is that, the two engines are almost identical besides the internals and the exhaust. The only give away I can think of would be the engine number, which I'm thinking they might not go to such lengths to check. Cheers.

Thanks guys that part is all done now. Just wanted to clarify that nothing disastrous was going to happen if I unbolted it. Has any one ever tried fitting a remus back box to a 323i? the back adapter parts are meant to bolt vertically. Where as the 323i only has mounting for horizontally bolting them up. Cheers.

Second post, second problem. So today I got to installing a new exhaust on my 323i from the headers back. All the nuts came loose from the studs rather easy, so that was great. But as I came to remove the mid-pipe from the headers, the mid-pipe wasn't able to drop down far enough without hitting a bar to clear the flange holes from the studs. I'm wondering if it is possible to remove this bar (as pictured in red circle, not actual picture), without any dire consequences. The bar has to mounts the bolt onto it, so I'm not entirety sure if I should remove it, has no one else has seemed to run into this problem. Cheers

Thanks for the reply. Would I get it welded where the two sections kind of cross cross each other? Also what would be the effects of just not running the sensor all together?