The H. Behemoth

Greetings! I just wonder, for someone who claims to be in a witness protection program, is it a very smart thing to do by publicly announcing this? And out of all places a BMW Forum. Are you sure its not called a public protection program with a lifetime supply of prescription pills? 😂 Honestly, our time is used more wisely by not discussing flat earth and covid conspiracy theories, batman, aliens, and perhaps now what remains is to pin the dinosaurs extinction among other things on people you dislike for your own shortcomings. Apart from that, we had a great laugh! Had some friends read it out loud the other day. Just brilliant, one friend was seriously concerned actually about you, poor chap. It maybe best you see a doctor, don't let the lock down get you down poor chap! 👍 Best Wishes Your wording speak much of your humble intellect and great wisdom. I would say you kids have following the foot steps of the previous "Great President" of the United States, remarkable resemblance and if you find enough people as yourselves you may also become a "Great Leader" to your country! For some reason some of us are thankful you are not. On a serious note, Its a pity what has become of this place. You represent this community and right now you are casting a bad light on it by posting and encouraging such behavior. Full stop. And in the end if anyone, it is the community and its owners that get into trouble because of what you said and allowed to be said. And no one should get into trouble because of your personal problems. I think its best you gentlemen follow the rules that are set, and clean up your mess and that of the ones you allowed, before someone decides its not fun and games anymore. As you know, morons with money can afford to play with you and have a laugh at your expense doing it, if they took you seriously that is. 😅 All the best! ====================== Thank you everyone, please excuse me, I must retire from this conversation before these kids get into trouble. Best wishes and warm regards. 😊👍

Hey there, I feel I just have to add to your post and correct a few points, so by any means don't take it personally, as it seems we have enough kids lurking about's here as it is. 1. Its best to never run water injection or such with a supercharger (Twin screw and Roots) that has coated rotors, basic physics and thermodynamics will dictate a few things here, most importantly your rotor coatings pealing off in given time due to the rapid hot and cold cycles. Specially never run it in front of the blower, which you can do with the older 6–71 blowers. Even if you put it in the manifold, on a closed system with the MAF, you will have to use a re circulation valve that will come in front of the blower intake and it will go inside there, not to mention the cyclone effect and droplets sticking to your MAF. Its best sticking to air to air intercooling. 2. On to the second point, actually if you notice, the post said the LOWEST seen was that. And I emphasis on lowest. That said remember the most an SC14 has seen has been 400WHP on a S52B32. And that was a 323I M52B25 which was an increase from 150 at the wheels to 200 at the wheels. Others have seen much more, some more attached. Here is a Dyno done in of Matt / Penguin Pools in Tauranga, NZ. And you can see the output a whopping near 290whp. And he was not even running 8PSI, but 6. And here is the other with a whopping 330whp on another dyno. Typically the average M50 / M52 sees some 155-160whp. Here is a good example if what just 3 PSI can do. A 39% Gain of power just with 3PSI. Now the calculations are just a formula, but they are far from poor or made for duping people, numbers are right in front of you. 3. The SC14 is just one of the many superchargers available, Today there are HMW kits for pretty much every single popular supercharger out there starting from M45, M62, M90, SC14, SC12, AMR500, M122H, TVS2350, The KB/Whipple 2.8L-2.9L. Literally the largest supercharger kit ever built for these cars has been done by HMW. Next step is just to acquire the license to produce their own TX15's and TX28's. Hi Troy, There are a few things we need to add to this. 1. Penguin Pools must have used multiple engines If I recall the M52 was used later on? Dynos are above/below attached of their cars. 2. The Brackets were MADE BY Penguin Pools using our instructions and whatever material / method they chose to use. And they regretted it and mentioned they would had preferred to gotten the brackets from HMW. So the brackets were not supplied by or and official HMW Product, which is huge chunk of metal 10mm thick. @M3AN @dirtydoogle@polley@Greenday694 Now I want to give some perspective here for you guys and everyone else. Every Supercharger or Turbo has a efficiency level and is ratted for a certain amount of maximal airflow which we can translate to HP/CFM vice versa. There is a give and take. Efficiency will drop after you start hitting that limit and you wont be able to push more. This part is clear. Question is if we buy a Compressor ratted to 300HP, Why expect it to deliver 400? If you buy a brand new SC14 it would run you upwards of $3000-$4000, If you buy a refurbishment maybe around $1000, a Secondhand unit for $150 - $200 ($350 - $400 NZD). So let me get this straight. We are supposed to pay 1/10 the price of a brand new SC14 unit, to go and buy a used second hand 30 year old SC14 unit, knowing their rated power output shall not be more than say 300-350HP. Then we complain why it does not deliver more power than its rated for, and then we refuse to service or rebuild it and then blame the supercharger for failing after a year and a half? Do you see the logic behind this? This is the mentality that is the root of the problem. Now let me give you something else, You want 400-450HP. Have a small budget, and cant afford to build the motor much if at all, Then you have the choice of going with some cheapo chinease turbo kit that may or may not work and get you there for a while. Everybody has been doing that. So in Matts (Penguin Pools) Case, they wanted a cheap setup, built the brackets following our V2 designs, had a relatively good power output as you can see for a stock engine. It went well, Then they wanted more power, now for their budget, the next upgrade kit is the M1 ratted for upto 500-700HP. Last year they wanted to upgrade to the M1 Kit, but due to work and personal life problems on his side, he could not afford to go that route. And perhaps he was not needing that kind of power, Anybody who has doubts can go check with him directly. So in such a case, what is someone to do? They have to make compromise, and get what works best for them within their budget. That would be a turbo. Be honest, Most people would consider themselves lucky to see near 250HP to the wheels on these 30 year old cars, specially in NZ. The next step up would mean to build an engine that can handle it, most people don't have either the knowledge, skills, time and mostly finances to afford that, specially in NZ. There are HMW engines here that cost upwards of $30,000 - $40,000 NZ Dollars in parts alone, in parts alone gentlemen! These are build to hold over 1200 HP's. Do you think anyone here will go that deep on a single engine? Now imagine having a shop do the work. If you have the money, you can grab a kit that allows you to fit a blower that is larger than your engine capacity, Then don't forget everything else that needs to be built to hold such power, the whole drive train, the gearbox, the differential, the whole sub frame and chassis that needs work. How many people here do that? Not too many. No truth is most people cant and wont go that far. In the end it depends on what your budget is, what you want and what you can or can not get from your budget. They are NOT Teflon coated. Something we found out as well. The cost to rebuild one of these units (including the rear bearings) would typically be around €1500 euros plus shipping. There are 3 workshops under us in Europe that will do it. I would opt for the TX28 however.

Applying virtual power is one thing, however In Germany, there is a law about slandering ones reputation, last I checked the 30 million euro insurance covers the company and the owner. Future accusations from them may result in a lawsuit one may not be able to afford. Thanks for being fair, just and reasonable in the face of ignorance and hate. Should you ever be around these parts, some beers await. 😀 Topic Printed. Abuse of power is one thing, slander another. Even using words like that, you are just a signature away from legal, do take notes. have a great day.

Dear friends, Its amusing and interesting, So much hate and so much misinformation, tall tales and even lies. Monty Python would be proud and one can certainly reach the yellow press with such. In the end I can only wish some of you the very best. I must respond and say, last I checked this 'moron' was on the German newspapers and was meeting the mayor of the city for his contributions: https://wilih.de/neu-stuttgarter-spendet-10-000-einwegmasken - These days hes hanging out with some higher ups at some very big companies in the automotive sector and I heard his company has gone international worth a few million and 6 branches around the world. Last I checked his company was one of the 7 in the world doing what they did. Things crazy morons do. He even gave away a car above to a Charlie from Christchurch whose a member of this forum and he can confirm the false story above, he had run the car low on oil (after a 1200KM Drive back to South Island) and he confirmed it, and he still had a year time to pay. Dont know many people doing that. I must forward this topic to the former director of the MB Kompressor department, so that moron who lives 2 houses away from him, can sit down over a nice evening and have a laugh and remind themselves that the Eaton was only the second option as the original choice was the German designed and lisenced by Ogura SC14 (Wankel AG - https://www.wankel-ag.de/seite1_e.html) and was not an option due to low manufacturing capacity (Toyota buying them all up) Back on topic, We all should respect the beliefs others have, but science is science and has no place but facts. Below are the lowest numbers seen this year. Before and After. Much love and warm regards.

Hi Doug, I wouldn't be too dismissive. Having seen a few hundread installations that typically are setup to make 8PSi or more...and these having run on 3.2L Engines that have been in enough races. The M54B30 is nothing special apart from having 15mm longer headbolts. The M90 is the same size as the SC14? A lot of factors come into play, and a M122H that produces 600+ HP on a 5.8L Ford modular engine is 2L. A lot of factors come into play and for a mesely 300HP at the crank, I would not invest my money on anything but a M62 (1L) or SC14. The M90's would cost and arm and a leg. An SC14 with a 80mm pulley will be all you need for 8PSI +. Here are some maths, you can input your values as you go. Hope that helps and do whatever works best for you. ====================================== Calculating Engine Liters/min @ 0 Psi Formula: Liters x RPM / 2 = Liter of Air/Min at 0 psi (N/A Motor) Multiply engine capacity (in liters) times maximum engine Rpm. 2.8 liters x 7000 rpm = 19600 liters/minute. Divide this figure by 2 as engine only fills every second stroke. So, 19600 / 2 = 9800 liter of air/min on a naturally aspired M52B28. Calculating Boost Ratio Add the boost pressure desired (5 Psi) for the engine to 14.7 Psi (atmospheric pressure). 5 psi +14.7 psi = 19.7 psi Divide this answer by 14.7 and this gives the boost pressure ratio. (21.7/14.7=1.476) This is the boost pressure ratio above atmospheric pressure. 19.7 psi / 14.7 = 1.34 Calculating Actual Air Requirements at Desired Boost Multiply the boost ratio by the liters/minute obtained for 0 Psi and you get the actual air requirements in Liters/min for the engine at that boost. In our example this is 9800 liters/min X 1.34 = 13132 liters/min Often the question arises if the SC14 is adequate for the 2.8L or even 3L M3’s, They flow more air(1.4L) vs the Eaton M62(1L), and we will be doing some calculations to decide on the correct size of supercharger for your car, you need to know:- 1. The swept volume per revolution of the supercharger. (Eaton M62 1 litre/rev, SC14 from a 1G-GZE 1.4 litres/rev) 2. The maximum continuous safe operating speed for the supercharger. (Eaton M62 14000 rpm continuous, Toyota SC14 12000 rpm??) 3. The maximum pressure that can be safely produced by the supercharger continuously. eg. Eaton M62 = 12 psi, Toyota SC14 = 10Psi(? Beyond that Teflon on rotors melts?) Calculating Supercharger Rotor Speed Divide the desired air flow (13132L/min) by the swept volume of the supercharger (SC14 from the 1G-GZE is 1.42 litres per revolution). This will tell you the maximum speed the supercharger rotors must be run at to produce the volume required. 13132 / 1.42 = 9248 Calculating Pulley Size Ratio Divide the rotor Rpm by maximum desired engine rpm to get the drive ratio of the pulleys. For an SC14 on a 2800cc @ 5psi boost the desired supercharger pulley ratio is 9248 / 7000 rpm = 1.32  Pulley Size Ratio With an 4″ (103mm) Pulley on the supercharger the size of the crank pulley for this ratio would be 1.32x 4 = 5.28” Note: M52B28 Crankshaft Pulley is around 6” or 152mm, the SC14 differs between 115mm and 125mm, We are using a 103mm pulley.) Final Calculations Pulley Size Ratio –> 6″ (crank pulley) / 4″ (SC14 pulley) = 1.5 Max SC14 RPM –> 1.5 (Pulley Size Ratio) x 7000 (Max Engine RPM) = 10500 RPM Air output with 6″ Crank Pulley –> 1.42(SC14 Displacement) x 10500(Max SC14 RPM) = 14910cc Boost Ratio –> 14910 / 9800 = 1.52 Max PSI Boost –> 1.52 x 14.7 = 22.34 – 14.7 = 7.6 PSI at 7000RPM or 5PSI at 6000RPM – both using the 4” (103mm) Pulley. ===========================================

Hey, here is some input from experience. All this will depend on your power goals and how much power you start with. In your case, If you are set on the SC14, you can typically get 280-320 HP at the crank with a proper tune at around 8 PSI from most M52B28 engines. The Penguin Pools NZ race car used the M54B30 engine with the HMW V2 SC14 Kit and saw over 330WHP 3 years ago, and the American Endurance race cars saw well over 400rwhp with the S52B32 build engine in 2017. You can get a little bit more with the M90 (they are both the same size, the M90 is tri lobed so 10-15% more efficient) but those units are hard to come by. They are all roots blowers and will give a linear torque curve unlike anything else, But I would not push a stock engine past 300. Go with 36lbs or 42lbs injectors. The ECU you have is likely the MS43 (if you are lucky) otherwise its a MS45, both can be flashed by a good tuner. Its all in the tune. Keep reading through the forced induction section of this forum, you will find enough information, all the best with your project.

Hi everyone, I have some fantastic news. All my issues have been fixed and the root was ASC & ABS. I did the ABS repair, and just went for a drive, no more misfires, no more hesitations! no more issues, didn't even need to disable the ASC. All is working great! So I went after the ABS module today, took the electronic controller part off, cut the plastic housing open using a angle grinder (can use a dremel rotary tool) I found the dry solder joints. I re soldered it all then put the lid back on and plastic welded it (you can use the soldering iron plus some left over abs plastic to do such repairs) then cleaned it off with the grinder a bit and sealed it with some plastic epoxy just for good measure. I also found a fuse (IIRC fuse 21 5A/32V I believe?) that was blown. Thanks to that fuse blowing I was able to narrow it more down to the ABS/ASC as I believe the solder joints after the speed bump were so lose that it was intermittent when the engine was pulling hard the ABS must had enough of a kickback/jerk to loosen the solder joints inside, then same applied going uphill and shorting that eventually lead blowing the fuse months later, which thankfully disabled the ASC and the car was able to just drive fine. But now all is running fine, the ABS & ASC works fine and the lights have gone. The down side was when putting it all back together one of the ABS lines are now cross threaded which I will have to repair! Haha! I could had done the repair without taking the abs lines off (a little bending will be required). Something I will attempt to solve tomorrow or this week when time allows but for now I am so happy that my little Red Ti is working fine. Now I can leave this here in NZ as my holiday car! Anybody having misfire issues, kindly check the code and for any codes, then this code I had 121 Height Adaptation Load Management (which is not well documented online at all) this error code was all due to the ASC MK20 ABS module having bad solder joints inside that made things intermittent! These are the pictures

Yes I did AB activation part in INPA, but didn't do much. I wonder if its the speed sensor on the car? I see the grey one on the passenger side front, I wonder if thats the one the ASC is using. I saw a few folks working on them on youtube, seems very straight forward. Now I wonder if the ABS could been related to the whole engine cutting power thing, maybe a good idea to inspect it and open it up tomorrow and see if the traction control and abs goes away and the error codes. May also delete the asct with a 10ohm resistor as found here - https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...BS-light-fault! I also wonder what the deal is with the 175 Output suction pipe-switching and how it can all relate to code 121 (height adaptation)...could never find anything on it, maybe its all ABS related. I will try the repair this week and report back! Thank you for the input!

So I think the issue I was having months ago with my little Ti finally came to light. I bought the car as a daily and after a few months the issues began after a speed bump and I have read how the ABS not working can cause the engine to misfire. Anyway so today it was driving fine, no usual hesitation or misfires but I finally saw the ABS light came on (no issue with braking) Here is what I get in INPA ASCMK20 129 main relay inside control unit - How do I get to the bottom of this? Is it a relay inside the ABS Unit or the relay in the fues box or is there one inside the ECU compartment? 121 height adaption (Error Load registration) - Unsure what this is for but I assume its related to the two. 175 Output suction pipe-switching - This I understand is DISA Related? I cant seem to nail down if its the front two sensors or the ABS unit the culprit or some relay. This was my first 318Ti and I really like the little guy, this is a issue I was not able to resolve however. Any input appreciated.

For what its worth, I have a M44 Red 318Ti I bought from the forum as a daily and side project earlier in the year, was nice for a while but a few months later it hit a unsuspecting speed bump at 10km and since then been misfiring, scanning codes brought out bad knock sensor and a bad cam sensor which I replaced, checked everything the chain tensioner, and timing, abs sensors, vac leaks, clogged ccv and all I could. Still misfires if going above 2500 rpm or if climbing a hill, otherwise drives well. height adaptation error (121 or something iirc) oh well..? Edit: Fix? Turns out I fixed my issue, was all due to the ABS/ASC, Easy fix is basically taking out the ABS electric module and resolder some broken connections, why at certain RPM's the ASC retards the timing on the engine and cuts power and the unit is often without codes, I only found my fix when I had the ABS/ASC light on after 3 months of this ongoing it finally blew a fuse that lead me the right direction, Car runs brilliantly now! Here is where I wrote in detail - http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/62531-318ti-abs-issue-rough-running/

Hows everyone here? Hope you are all doing well.? Sorry I haven't been as active and posting updates for you all. Has life kept me busy. I was in the Netherlands on a business project that was assigned by a Dutch University that my associate took on and I was dragged into it. After that I was invited and sponsored on a winter holiday to stay at the private Stuttgart residence of an well known ex Daimler PR. I only returned from Germany earlier this year and went for a holiday driving all around NZ, was in Christchurch 3 days before the horrible event happened. Anyone who hasn't been to the Southisland, put it on your bucket list, best drives and scenery you can have in this part of the world. Currently they are processing my application for joining a private German university around March 2020. Meanwhile I have been in touch with some very high ups at 2 big companies in Germany and will likely be joining ZF or Daimler. Meanwhile at HMW we have gotten some projects completed an released to public, others are coming ahead. The M122H KC Setup using the GT500 M122H Eaton Blower was released mid year. Its a setup capable of 600HP's + as well as able to utilize the TVS 2300 Supercharger as well as 2.8-2.9L KB & Whipple Twin Screw Blowers. This is The Largest Supercharger Setup ever conceived for BMW's. We have also released the M62/M90/M45 Setups. A New version of the SC14 setups is also coming, and have under development a project for the 4 Cylinder M40, M42, M43 & M44 Engines on the 318ti etc. That and next year we may be finally able to release the kits for the BMW V8/M60/M62 engines as well as the M20 and M30. So here we are some pictures and videos for you all below: HMW M122H KC - The Largest Modern Roots Supercharger Ever Put on a BMW HMW SS Manifolds HMW V3 Eaton M62/M90/M45 HMW V2.1X SC14 2018 Batches HMW Custom Supercharger Pulley HMW V4 MOAB - Largest SC Setup Project for the BMW 4 Cylinder M4X Engines - Uses 4 different Superchargers (AMR500, M45, M62 & SC14) I had so much I'd wanted to show, unfortunately most builds don't look neat and tidy enough to our standards of presentation, here are some that caught my eye recently September's prettiest SC14 V2.1X Build in UK Augusts Top SC14 V2.1X Build in France Videos: SC14 @ 3 PSI and 200WHP M52B28 (MS41 ECU) HMW M122H KC M50B30 Stroker @ 17 PSI 500WHP (*Link ECU) I have been part of this community for over a decade, meet folks, said good byes, had short comings that allowed me growth while I lurked and came once a while. ..I'm leaving NZ permanently in some 8 weeks time, next month the shipping company will be taking over, HMW operations have already been moved to the US. Now its time to thank you all for everything. I dedicate this song to you and make this my final bow to you all ? Wish me well, thank you once again; god bless you all and go well!?️ Much Love & Warmest Regards, - Hyde

yep stock rear wheel hp was about 150, with boost thats 200rwhp and 230 at the crank.

I have run personally upto 12PSI on an M52, all stock for a while. But really you dont want to go above 8-9PSI on a stock motor and retain the longevity. 1K NZD wont take you far, even if I gave you the bracket designs to make one yourself. but even the shops will end up trying to eat half your budget to make you the brackets. in the end with a stock motor how much can you push it? I mean you will be fast as or faster than the E36/46 M3's. The alternative as I said weight your options and go big, build the motor and then go with the M122H type of setup. thats the GT500 blower and will go as far as 600+ HP with no issues. the SC14 will cap off 300-350 for most folks. I would say if you stretch your budget to 1.5-2K then you will have a lot of breathing room and come off with a decent setup if you do it all yourself (not paying anyone)..I can get you the designs, free of charge. least I can do. all the best.

Hello, well I will give you the ins and outs. They are good blowers, Although the same size an eaton M90 (about 1.5L) but still older technology. I speak from experience as we developed the original roots blower kits for these m5x based BMWs and started using them. Best one saw 400HP from and s52 us m3 motor, that car went to become the first ever supercharged car in the event and won 3rd place in the american endurance races. Now usually the sc14 are good for 300HP unless you have a 5 speed manual or a modified auto to take the extra torque. What a lot of folks dont know is that this is originally an German blower, Licensed by Ogura from WANKEL AG, in Korb, Germany. There is a much larger version TX28 used for mining and that we are playing with. While I was in Germany last year (sponsored by ex Daimler PR), one evening while taking with the director of the former Mercedes Kompressor department, he said they originally chose these little guys instead of the M62 Eaton, the main reason being ogura clutch couldn't supply enough of them at the time to keep up (Toyota was using them). These are dual lobe dual rotor while the m62/m90's are tri lobe dual rotor and 15% more efficient. But at the end you only go so far with either one, still better than an M62 (1L). All roots blowers. That said whats your budget? And whats your HP Goals?? if you want to fabricate anything yourself, you will end up with a belt chewing headache if you go the full fabrication route and pay for it. Not to mention the hurdles you will come across will push the whole thing out of the comfort zone of "a budget setup". And for the love of god dont put a blow off valve in a closed system that has the MAF infront of it. But if you want to do it solo, you can download the installation guide here (HMW SC14 Installation Guide) and try to do it yourself but be warned, not a walk in the park. Finally your biggest issue on the OBD I M50 will be tuning, your best way to tune it will be using the Ostrich II Emulator, worth some $200 from the US. Its a piggyback system and works well. Here is what you are looking at..at 3 PSI it will see some 40HP Gain with a proper tune. (Dyno attached below) There should been a topic here in this section that had a lot more information as well. Around 6-8PSi you see most M54B30's around 300 at the wheels..depends on the tune. Now the SC14 with lets say the 80mm Pulley will see some 6.5PSI - 9PSI Max before you max out its efficiency as well as put your stock motor and trans into the red zone. Use this pulley. So if you want some real power and willing to build the motor a bit, grab yourself an GT500 Blower and use one of these setups, good for 15-25PSI or 500-600WHP. Hope this helps, all the best!? Dyno with 3PSI/Stock SC14 Pulley. Smaller pulley can push upto 8-9PSI.

Yes, Thats the concept, The final revision will be using our own air collector, much shorter to accommodate large blowers (the reason for its inception). We are still months away from the final revision. That said still to see any feedback for the concept really, other than diverting with usual escapism. Oh well. Regards,