master garion

There's a widely used aftermarket aluminium thermostat housing that's actually cheaper than the BMW or OEM plastic one. Lasts forever too. With the plastic ones gotta be careful not to overtighten the bolts.

Hi ppl As we all know, the E36 cooling system starts to play up anytime after approx 120,000 kms. In my personal experience with the 323i, I've had to replace the water pump, radiator, thermostat and housing (maybe more to come?). Each of these components were replaced by the workshop one at a time as they failed, resulting in lots of visits to the workshop and lots of bloody $$$. E.g. when the water pump failed, it cooked the seals on the new month-old radiator.... Instead of gradual replacement, how about an entire cooling system overhaul in one go? I'm sure it's cheaper in the long run and less hassle. Plus, no more intermittent overheating issues as well. The question is...what components should be replaced in an "overhaul" to avoid any cooling problems for the next 100k kms or so? Here's a draft list but would appreciate input from you guys: Radiator Waterpump Thermostat Thermostat housing Coolant expansion tank + cap Hoses (which ones?)

Anyone doing a trip from Welly to Aucks and have space for a set of mags? pls pm cheers Jeff

did you end up replacing the AFM?

Turns out to be the air flow meter returning a "too lean" reading. No air leaks found by BM Workshop. Conclusion is that the air flow meter is faulty. I told them to clean the AFM. They said the AFM looked spotless but they did as instructed. So now just wait and see if the code comes up again. Cost of replacement approx $900!! Anyone familiar with this problem?

So now the light goes out after I fill up with gas......Low fuel = Check Engine Light?? Anyways will find out tomorrow after i get it plugged in at BM Workshop.

This warning light just came on today while the missus was driving. Is this the main "Check Engine" light? Car's a 2001 E46 320i Jap import. 1. The manual (in japanese) says something about engine warning light/emissions/gas etc (translated by a mate who's Japanese is shite btw) 2. The US version of the manual says it's a "Service Engine Soon" light on Canadian models. The car's booked in with BM Workshop for Mon morning but thought I'd see if I can narrow it down first. Cheers

I'm no expert but I read somewhere (can't remember where) that the current safety "best practice" is to have the better tyres in the rear regardless of whether the car is fwd or rwd. Would love to hear what you tyre gurus have to say about this as I'm currently facing this situation with my car. *I just found the source I read this from: http://www.aa.co.nz/motoring/tips/ask-jack...r-or-front.aspx

Does anyone have a link to a catalogue of all BBS wheels ever made? Or does anyone know what these are? Are they even genuine BBS?

Price?

how much Ray?

Seats and door cards wanted in good condition and at a reasonable price. Must be undamaged especially the "hangers" along the top and the plastic clips.

Not sure how many different variations there are but the one I have in mind has 5 double spokes. Please pm thanks.

Had the same fault in my E46 recently. BM Workshop replaced the seat mat sensor and they said it's actually a pretty common problem. The part costs around 300+gst and takes a couple of hours of labour.

Glenn, do any of the Jatcos in the E36 Jap imports take Dexron III? When I had my trans serviced a few months ago, the garage filled it with Dexron III. They are unlikely to have got it wrong but thought I'd ask the question. Cheers.

No my car hasn't been lowered. Tyres are evenly worn. Just that the LR is more worn overall than the RR. Thanks.

My tyres are evenly worn individually but I've noticed that the left rear tyre is more worn than the the right rear one (by about 1mm). And also that the rears are more worn than the fronts (by 1-2 mm): 1. What are some of the reasons one rear tyre is more worn than the other? 2. Should I swap the fronts to the rears so I have got more tread in the rear? cheers

I've got the Jatco jerk and flaring. Fluid was replaced a few months ago to no effect. Tried clearing the adaptions a couple of weeks ago and it got worse immediately. Spoke to a transmission specialist with some expertise in Jatcos and they tell me that the trans had adapted to the wear and tear. By clearing the adaptions, the shift parameters had been reset to default. While this may have improved the jerk, the flaring had gotten worse. I suppose as the trans "re-adapts" over time, the jerk will return and the flaring will get better again? Seems like the only fix is to go manual or find a good replacement auto.

I recently replaced the pollen filter in my car using this guide http://www.bavarian-board.co.uk/forum_posts.asp?TID=9827 It was the best I could find on the net. Most of the guides out there are for LHD cars and obviously don't apply to us here. I saw your other post re parts prices. Gavin's price is pretty good for the pollen filter and probably won't be beaten for local stock. But if you're willing to wait for delivery from overseas like I did, you can buy one from http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-E36-CAB...sQ5fAccessories At current exchange rates, it works out to be less than $25 including shipping. The filter itself is of decent quality although I have not seen a genuine filter so can't compare. Hope this helps. * that DIY guide makes it look easy. The tricky bit is getting the new filter back in. I thought changing the pollen filter was hard on my Honda, but the BMW engineers really take the cake here. So if you want to avoid scraped knuckles and sore knees, suggest taking to a mechanic preferably one who's done it before. Some automotive air-con specialists may do fitting too.

tyre pressures just checked a week ago per info on door jamb, car tracks straight as an arrow, car is stock - no mods of any kind. as for the condition of the shocks/bushes, wouldn't have a clue? Long service history at BM Workshop and they haven't noted anything re suspension. I was gently accelerating from a standstill at the intersection so I was going pretty damn slow when it happened. If you're saying that's all it takes to lose traction, then might be time for me to get a better car. I'm not into spinning the car on purpose so I'm not one of "those" ppl. I have to put it down to either oil on the road, worn suspension or tyres. Surely the car wasn't designed to do that.

the intersection with the shell and foodtown? that's where it happened to me! but i didn't have the skills to correct

about 3 years old

Hey ppl I'm new to bimmers and RWD. Today, I spun out in my 323i E36. I was gently accelerating, turning right at an intersection. Just as I clear the intersection, i suddenly lose the rear and do a clockwise spin. Partially mounted the raised median and ended up facing the direction I came from. It was wet today but surely that's not supposed to happen especially at such low speeds? Drove home like a nana cos I've lost all my confidence in the car. A mate reckons there could be diesel on the ground from all the trucks nearby but I dunno. Do i need better tyres? Is there something wrong with the car? Doesn't the car have traction control to prevent this from happening? Btw, my tyres are Firestone Guardians with good tread. Thanks

Hi everyone I've just purchased my first BMW ever - 2001 E46 320i with the 2.2l engine. Can't wait for it to arrive!! It's got BBS wheels and has done 89000 kms. Pics attached. Any tips/advice for a bmw noob? What sort of problems (if any) on E46s of this mileage? I'll be taking my car to BM Workshop for servicing when it arrives. Will they be able to order a spare key from Germany? Thanks