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About detroit

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    '86 320i E30

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  1. You're a wealth of Knowledge, thank you so much Brent.
  2. Appreciate your help Brent, thank you! Also, It appears to me that this trans is missing the crank sensors meaning it's a FL/Later Motronic only trans (although I haven't seen any photos of a g240 with those sensors either, only g260s) I have a Jetronic e30, so I'm guessing that this is going to cause me some issues because according to e30zone's wiki, Jetronic e30s use the trans mounted crank position sensors, unlike later Motronic e30s. But since I've never done a manual swap and I can't seem to find much info on Jetronic e30s, I'm curious if you have any info on this or can confirm/deny my thoughts. Also, I'll be contacting you soon about getting a few parts from you, is FB or here better for you?
  3. @BM WORLD and anyone else in the future, here's more photos, hopefully this can help in further identifying the transmission. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1EynHBADJEsjL7DXl4SgAG-iGhjvaeumE?usp=sharing Thanks!
  4. This seems to be the case with mine, so it's at least a m20 or m40 one! I'll get better photos when the weather is ok, It's rainy and I don't have enough room in the garage to take photos atm. Appreciate the info so far.
  5. Hey all, I've been trying to identify this Getrag 240 for some time as I continue to stack parts for my e30 manual swap. I've done some reading on the e30zone wiki and I saw this: "However, don't let parts sellers convince you that the boxes are identical. Getrag gearboxes can be identified by looking for the serial number stamped around the edge of the bell housing. This number should also contain letters, which will identify the following boxes: Getrag 240 - MN and BMV (M10 carbureted models), BMO, TBCU and BCX (M40 cars and some 318iS) Getrag 240 - BCO, BCP and BCT - 318iS and E34 518i (pre 1992 overdrive). These boxes are the longer units with the shorter prop. Getrag 240 - BMS, MB and BMT - 320i models." However, none of these ID my Getrag 240, mine says "144023 AMA" on the bellhousing, and that's the only part number that contains both numbers and letters. (Here's a photo of it). I've heard that the mounting points are different, which makes sense but as I don't know what the others look like, I can't tell if this is an M20 one, if you can please do and if you're open to it, please share how you know or how I/others in the future can know (can we measure the distance between two bolt holes? etc.) Here is a photo of it Lastly, not title related but if anyone knows of a manual swap guide that deals with Jetronic e30s, please send that my way too, I haven't seen one titled accordingly, but I'd love to see one as there's been a few differences with past maintenance work I've done. I'd appreciate any help you can provide!
  6. Hmmm, ok. That sounds a bit more vital that I initially thought. I'll look into getting a second hand one then. Do you think it's dangerous to run without one in the mean time? or at all? Thanks for the help! I took it for more of a drive today, and noticed the car seemed to be pretty much normal, but may be running a bit less rich. Before it was quite rich and smelly, now it isn't, like at all. It also seems to have a tiny bit more pep, and maybe even a slightly more dramatic deceleration (in terms of power, very subtle changes, that could be my imagination). As for the idle. It's so nice to have a regular idle. Despite my previous post saying otherwise it does idle at around 600-700 for maybe 30 seconds right on cold start, then kicks up to 1k, then down to 800 when warm.
  7. Ok I'm going to update this, just in case someone else has the same issue at some point :). After posting here I did a bit more digging and came across a thread on another forum. The poster of that thread had a different issue, but a high idle still, they had the exact same symptom I had (there was no line connected to the same port of the distributor) they also had the same exact cap over the same exact same port on the throttle body that I had and they too, couldn't see that valve that is mentioned earlier in the thread. It was strange, it was like looking at my car but from the UK. Anyways, this is what they did and I subsequently did too. Basically they just plumbed the capped port on the throttle body to the port on the distributor, therefore bypassing the "valve" that is supposedly there. I took the car for a test drive and the idle is significantly better, if not fixed. It seems to idle at around 800 when warm, but (I think) less when cold, around 600-700, which is sort of the opposite of what it says should happen? Even if that's not typical I can't see how a lower cold idle would cause issues? I will be double checking this tomorrow and seeing if I notice any other changes, especially in the higher revs now that the distributor timing should be able to advance. But if any of you jetronic experts would like to chime in and let me know if not having that valve is dangerous please do, if not, I'll continue to run this! Thanks for all the suggestions and help!
  8. I'll be sure to check this too then. Thank you.
  9. You talking about the Air Slide Valve? If Yes, I cleaned it and bare bones tested it when I did the timing belt. I tested it by placing the coolant side in hot water and there was movement in the air or vacuum side. That being said, I do have a used spare in somewhat unknown condition. I bought it just in case but haven't put that in yet. If you believe that to be more likely of the culprit, I could switch it out. Thanks for the help though, I'll have a better look for the damper.
  10. So I've had my e30 for almost a year now, It's finally time I try to address the high idle (1000-1200rpm, when warm in neutral). I have replaced the obvious stuff (Intake boot and a visibly cracked hose). But I noticed when doing my timing belt and water pump that on the distributor there was a vacuum port with no line connected to it. I'm guessing to advance the distributor timing. Idk what took me so long, but I'm finally going to plumb that back up, I looked on realOEM and found the section I'm looking at but cannot figure out what the vacuum line goes to. I haven't taken the cold side off to have a proper look but it's not immediately obvious. Here's the diagram. If you look at where #15 connects to the distributor, I believe that's what is in my picture. It goes to #12 but #12 isn't listed on realOEM, so I have no idea what it is. So, What is #12 and where in the engine bay would I find it? Here's my image: My vacuum lines aren't quite routed the same, and it doesn't appear that I have the second vacuum port on the distrubutor (shown in the realOEM diagram), but I haven't looked closely either. Also, for the jetronic experts out there. Is it likely that this leak could cause this big of a jump in idle revs? I could always just bite the bullet and pay for it to be smoke tested. As always, thanks for the help! You guys have saved my ass once before.
  11. Just thought I'd update this. I've bought everything. I got blacked out side markers, blacked out 335i Badge and a set of bulbs to make the front "angel eyes" white, not yellow. Thanks for all the ideas, although I didn't use them.
  12. Hey guys, Got an interesting idea, I'm doing a Secret Santa ($50 limit) and whilst I understand this is a long shot, I'm curious if you guys have any ideas on things I could get for someone who owns both an e92 335i and an e46 335ci. Totally understand if this isn't possible, just a random thought I had, not really expecting it to work. Thanks in Advance.
  13. FIXED! So it turns out the distributor was definitely out of whack, and needed to be re-adjusted, which is annoying as it's such a simple fix but because l-jetronic e30s aren't well-documented nobody mentions this in any guide. Here's where I put it, the tape mark on the side of the distributor is once again the mark where #1 cylinder spark plug wire is. Once again, huge thanks to the people on this forum who helped, especially Glenn from @B.M.W Ltd.
  14. Ok so today, I, unfortunately, got interrupted a few times and only got a small number of things done. I spoke to Glenn @B.M.W Ltd and he was extremely patient and helpful, he gave me some important advice on what I needed to do and I've done some of what he said already, so a huge thank you to him for speaking with me so thoroughly, an absolute legend. Here's where I'm at, I double-checked the #1 wire for resistance using this as a guide: I did this to make sure the wire labeled #1 was in fact #1 and not messed with by a previous owner, a really great idea courtesy of Glenn. It passed this test, #1 wire was connected to Cylinder #1's spark plug. I tried to do this with continuity, but it didn't work, so I switched to the way it's done in the video above. I then placed the engine at TDC and the Rotor arm faces here and turns clockwise, the tape mark on the side of the distributor is where the #1 Spark plug wire would come from on the cap. ( I ran out of twink but this way you can see it dead on and the mark all in one) Is this too worn to work? Does the timing look to be about right? I also noticed there was a vacuum line not going to this, I didn't check if it had one going to it other than the one missing, but if it only has one outlet then it's missing its vacuum advance line, is this potentially causing a no start, I didn't remove it so I imagine I bought it (running btw) without this. (just want to remind you, that I did for spark on cylinder 1 and it's there) I then did this test This was to see if my cap was faulty, I left all other wires connected, besides the #1 wire. I got no readings, even if I put one of the probes on the contact point for #1 on the inside and on the outside of #1 where the wire could connect, I got nothing in either test. I'm not versed at all when it comes to caps or rotors so my style of cap might not be susceptible to this test, or the fact that it's still connected to other wires maybe interfering. Either way, I'd love to hear your thoughts if you know anything more about Caps + Rotors. (just want to remind you, that I did for spark on cylinder 1 and it's there) I then was asked by someone to see if the cam lobe was up in cylinder #1 when at tdc, it's not (at least I think) here's that photo: Was asked the same but when the rotor arm is towards cylinder #6 and to slightly crank it, here's that video: So yeah, not too much progress today, but I thought I'd keep this updated so that if anyone has similar issues they can see what I did to (hopefully ahaha) fix this. Any input is greatly appreciated. Thank for the help already too.
  15. Just Pm'd you back, cheers. The crankshaft isn't out by 360, I was super careful about the timing matching. If I were to do one crank rotation, the cam would be 180 degrees off it's mark, but two and it's right on. As for moving stuff without the belt, I don't think I moved the crank at all without a belt, but the cam I did, I wouldn't say I moved it, more so tilted then tilted back, as I was trying to get to the cam seal and I had a screwdriver holding the cam mostly in place. I didn't end up taking the cam sprocket off as it was too tight. Thanks for the ideas though!
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