Glacial Pace

I find that the super car stuff for M cars doesn't get included in those. Maybe it just missed the last one. Supercheap don't stock it either.

Not sure if it's of any use to anyone, but Repco are 25% off most things today. I know they go on sale regularly, but for things like Castrol 10w60 supercar this seems like about as cheap as it gets.

Yes, aware of that, thanks for the heads up though. Coding required immediately? I'll probably get the battery on Monday, but my coding tool will be probably end of the week, if not start of next. Unless @Neil McCauley is able to help me out?

I have an old garage laptop that I use for Audi diagnostic software, so that seems reasonable. But a simple Bluetooth scanner for in the car might be good as well. In case of emergency.

Oh, amazing. I'll DM you my phone number. Thank you!

So, I need some sort of diagnostics tool. Probably not going to get into coding anything but I need to read and clear fault codes and all that jazz. Is this one along with bimmerlink what I want, or is there a better option? Also, if anyone near Queenstown has a code reader I'd love to know what my check engine light is on for this weekend haha. https://www.stahlcar.nz/products/bmw-obd2-tool-for-bimmercode-bimmerlink?variant=44426037428499&currency=NZD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw5Ky1BhAgEiwA5jGujtNi9zWofyclHQUY4bWXjFGWmXtaCZrteeIKutle7dsD97Dv8WPsuxoCzyEQAvD_BwE

Also, it turns out it's got a Miltek exhaust. At least that's what the tips say, and they're welded to the back box so that much is Miltek anyway.

New car day.

And here it is in all it's ratty glory haha. Got a check engine light the second time I started it, and a low battery warning as well. Possibly related. I don't think it's been driven much in the last year or so, so I'll try charging the battery. Also need to get an obd reader and see what causing the check engine light. It seems to drive pretty well, and the suspension doesn't feel as lose as I expected. The edc dampers are still noticeable different in the different settings as well. I assume it all still needs replacing but not as bad as I thought it might be.

Got up early this morning and collected the car from the transporter. It looks used but in relatively good condition for the km. Took it for a short drive but it was -4° so the oil didn't get up to temp after 20+ mins off driving and I didn't exactly want to give it much with the chance of ice all over the place. I am very happy with it just now, and also quite nervous as to what I might find in there once I look at it in the light. Shockingly I think it has an oil leak from the filter housing gasket. Unprecedented I know....

Nice. I've been up that mountain, a few years ago. No snow when I did it though.

Nice! Any jobs planned for it?

Mr12volt make conversation boxes for E9x models, or you could try your luck with an Ali express box. I did that with my Audi A6 and it's ok, navigation is a bit of a pain without a touch screen and the sound quality is not amazing.

Ordered it all, including new bolts as discussed.

I do plan on doing suspension work on the car at some point, and I'll consider reusing the bolts then, but 280k km and I don't know if they have ever been changed, so I will do it for peace of mind.

I got the info from this forum post, though I am not sure where this comes from. I slightly misspoke actually, most of the sub frame bolts are ok to reuse, but the skid plate ones as well as the smaller size ones in the sub frame say to replace. I will get all of these, along with the oil pan bolts. https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1330067

Yeah, agree. They aren't bad, but they aren't quite right either. I would also be (and will be on mine) prioritising mechanical work over aesthetics. Need to get it driving just right before you make it look just right.

I will be consulting everything I can get my hands on yes, including Bentley or TIS. Honestly I think a lot of people usually this job having read a forum post and watching a video, nearly all of which do not mention replacing the oil pan or subframe bolts. Point taken though, I think I will replace any bolt that BMW state to be single use items.

Interesting, I had though the opposite, my reasoning being that the oil pan bolts are only done to 10nm and the subframe bolts are much higher, or even torque then angle so they see a lot more force when torquing and also while the car is being driven. Still unsure what I'll do about that, all the bolts are maybe $200-$250. Not huge but every saving is money that can be spent elsewhere.

Thanks. I'll price them up for the parts I need imminently and make sure I don't go over $1000, that was actually the decider to go with OEM rod bolts, not ARP. The kit with ARP was more than $1000 so I knew I would get pinged.

Lovely looking car. Not sure about the wheels but that's a personal preference and easy to change. E30s are such a classy design, perfect classic car imo.

Nice one. I'll call some of the NZ places mentioned and see if anyone can provide the towing eye cover. I'm currently putting together an order for the other parts I require for the rod bearings job. Anyone have an opinion on replacing the oil pan and sub frame bolts? Seems like BMW recommend replacing them but nobody who had done videos on it seems to bother. I can see the subframe bolts, but oil pan seems a bit overkill to me, assuming the bolts aren't corroded or anything.

Thank you!

Thanks. Looks like buying from over seas is the way to go. What about NZ based wreakers for bid of trim etc, is there any decent ones?

This will be my first bottom end refresh, but I have done multiple other jobs on various engines, and am confident that I can carry out the repair. Honestly some of the videos I have seen on yt of professionals doing this job have made me cringe, idk, maybe it's fine but I watched one a few days ago and the mechanic was removing the old roof bolts with an impact wrench, seems a bit rough to me. I also have a friend who can lend me a high end torque wrench for the rod bolts. My torque wrenches are fine for most stuff, but I want that to be dead on.