Glacial Pace

That one from classic cars does look decent, shipping is often a total killer on something as heavy as a jack, but I'll look into it I have 4 good jack stands already.

In that case, anyone got recommendations for a jack? Looking at this one. It's low and lifts a lot. https://www.repco.co.nz/tools-equipment/garage-tools-equipment/trolley-jacks-car-jacks/powerbuilt-2000kg-ultra-low-profile-trolley-jack-jgs0503/p/A1268683?kwSearch=Powerbuilt jack

Fair enough. I get a lot more choice in new trolley jack if I don't need a removable saddle, and I can save $115 on the cradle.

Fair point on not being able to get the transmission out from under the car, but the work I have to do on the top of the gearbox is minimal, I just need to replace a seal there and i was planning on doing it under the car, I just need to drop the box a bit to get to it. I could just do it on a bit of wood, but I feel like the cradle just makes it way less likely that the transmission will fall.

I'm going to have to remove my transmission for some service/repair work and I don't have access to a lift, so I'm hoping to do it with one of these with the car on jack stands. https://engineerscollective.co.nz/products/proequip-250kg-transmission-adaptor?srsltid=AfmBOoqqorRelAFHxENtMy4MeIdyfpQWWMDllJG44r9yJHy0m8FR2_Uz I need a new trolley jack anyway but I'm struggling to find many options that have removable saddles so I can use the linked transmission cradle above. I have only found this power built one https://www.powerbuilttools.co.nz/product/jgs0432/ Does anyone know of any other options?

Damn, I ment to buy some more supercar in the last Repco sale, but not it's gone. Did they always have 10w60 edge or is that the new replacement? I'm sure a sale will roll around on that stuff sooner or later.

I find that the super car stuff for M cars doesn't get included in those. Maybe it just missed the last one. Supercheap don't stock it either.

Not sure if it's of any use to anyone, but Repco are 25% off most things today. I know they go on sale regularly, but for things like Castrol 10w60 supercar this seems like about as cheap as it gets.

Yes, aware of that, thanks for the heads up though. Coding required immediately? I'll probably get the battery on Monday, but my coding tool will be probably end of the week, if not start of next. Unless @Neil McCauley is able to help me out?

I have an old garage laptop that I use for Audi diagnostic software, so that seems reasonable. But a simple Bluetooth scanner for in the car might be good as well. In case of emergency.

Oh, amazing. I'll DM you my phone number. Thank you!

So, I need some sort of diagnostics tool. Probably not going to get into coding anything but I need to read and clear fault codes and all that jazz. Is this one along with bimmerlink what I want, or is there a better option? Also, if anyone near Queenstown has a code reader I'd love to know what my check engine light is on for this weekend haha. https://www.stahlcar.nz/products/bmw-obd2-tool-for-bimmercode-bimmerlink?variant=44426037428499&currency=NZD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw5Ky1BhAgEiwA5jGujtNi9zWofyclHQUY4bWXjFGWmXtaCZrteeIKutle7dsD97Dv8WPsuxoCzyEQAvD_BwE

Also, it turns out it's got a Miltek exhaust. At least that's what the tips say, and they're welded to the back box so that much is Miltek anyway.

New car day.

And here it is in all it's ratty glory haha. Got a check engine light the second time I started it, and a low battery warning as well. Possibly related. I don't think it's been driven much in the last year or so, so I'll try charging the battery. Also need to get an obd reader and see what causing the check engine light. It seems to drive pretty well, and the suspension doesn't feel as lose as I expected. The edc dampers are still noticeable different in the different settings as well. I assume it all still needs replacing but not as bad as I thought it might be.

Got up early this morning and collected the car from the transporter. It looks used but in relatively good condition for the km. Took it for a short drive but it was -4° so the oil didn't get up to temp after 20+ mins off driving and I didn't exactly want to give it much with the chance of ice all over the place. I am very happy with it just now, and also quite nervous as to what I might find in there once I look at it in the light. Shockingly I think it has an oil leak from the filter housing gasket. Unprecedented I know....

Nice. I've been up that mountain, a few years ago. No snow when I did it though.

Nice! Any jobs planned for it?

Mr12volt make conversation boxes for E9x models, or you could try your luck with an Ali express box. I did that with my Audi A6 and it's ok, navigation is a bit of a pain without a touch screen and the sound quality is not amazing.

Ordered it all, including new bolts as discussed.

I do plan on doing suspension work on the car at some point, and I'll consider reusing the bolts then, but 280k km and I don't know if they have ever been changed, so I will do it for peace of mind.

I got the info from this forum post, though I am not sure where this comes from. I slightly misspoke actually, most of the sub frame bolts are ok to reuse, but the skid plate ones as well as the smaller size ones in the sub frame say to replace. I will get all of these, along with the oil pan bolts. https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1330067

Yeah, agree. They aren't bad, but they aren't quite right either. I would also be (and will be on mine) prioritising mechanical work over aesthetics. Need to get it driving just right before you make it look just right.

I will be consulting everything I can get my hands on yes, including Bentley or TIS. Honestly I think a lot of people usually this job having read a forum post and watching a video, nearly all of which do not mention replacing the oil pan or subframe bolts. Point taken though, I think I will replace any bolt that BMW state to be single use items.

Interesting, I had though the opposite, my reasoning being that the oil pan bolts are only done to 10nm and the subframe bolts are much higher, or even torque then angle so they see a lot more force when torquing and also while the car is being driven. Still unsure what I'll do about that, all the bolts are maybe $200-$250. Not huge but every saving is money that can be spent elsewhere.