Jadon

Since having my abs fixed, my cars throttle has been super sensitive. When I let off it’s very harsh and I get thrown forwards. If I hit a bump when in second, I’ll end up with my foot bouncing on the gas and I get thrown around and look like a dumbass. Anyone have any idea why this is happening? It never happened before.

I saw in an older thread that someone had the same issue with the same part and @promo was able to help them. I have also read today that people have had issues with there and module not calibrating because they have had issues with the ground connection. I was told that the pump was failing but I’m starting to think there might be an issue with the cables causing the abs module to not send a signal or calibrate. I’m going to give my mechanic a ring tomorrow to see if I can get the fault codes and see if he inspected any of the wiring for issues. Hopefully it’s actually just been a bad connection this whole time. Also if Pramod has any insight into my issue that would be very helpful as I’ve seen you have worked with this before.

I don’t know the exact details. It’s all been done but my mechanic and an auto sparky who said the abs modules were showing up not compatible. I got told the pump had failed but I’m starting to think the fault might be a connection instead.

Previously I was on here about an abs issue. I found a replacement part fitted it and it wouldn’t calibrate to the car. I then fitted the original part to the car and it also wouldn’t calibrate. Does anyone have any idea what could cause this? I’ve tried researching and my best guess is that maybe there is an electrical disconnect somewhere in the system causing the abs module to not connect. I’ve spent over 2 months now trying to sort this issue and I’m still so confused. Any more help would be appreciated. Thanks

Hi, I’m hoping someone will see this as it’s an old thread. I have the same issues, same part number. I bought an identical replacement part and have been told it’s not compatible when calibrating it. Then old part was then refitted and now also says incompatible. I assumed it was the incorrect part that had had some coding magic done to it to make it work but from reading this it is the correct part. @promo I see that you helped resolve the issue. How was the issue solved in the end? I’m terribly confused. My car is same build month as the car in this forum. Please help, I’ve been struggling to fix this for a couple months now Thanks

The part on realoem is a different part number to the part on my car. Im going to check history to see if it might have been replaced before.

Hey, I need some help trying to source the abs pump for my 07 130i. The part number is 3451 6778 48401. Coombes Johnston BMW have quoted $4k which is ridiculous for a pump. I so far haven’t been able to find it elsewhere. I have now started messaging wreckers around nz to try and find it. If anyone has one lying around or can recommend places to look for one that would be very much appreciated.

As much as it’s bad it does seem to work. It’s definitely noticeable not having it

My first thought was wheel speed sensors but I’ve had it scanned at a shop and it is the abs pump. The mechanic says it’s a simple job.

So my 130i has no dsc at the moment because the abs has failed and I have noticed that the car now likes to smoke one tire in the wet. Do these cars have an e diff in them? I’ve tried to google it but there’s not a lot of info. I feel it would make sense as my car did consistently spin both wheels previous to the abs fault.

It is the ga6hp box which I assume is the gm box. What cars came out with the zf boxes? I assume the xhp tune will not work on the gm box then.

How can you tell which auto box you have? Are there any ways of knowing without jacking the car up and finding a part number?

That looks promising. Has anyone had any experience with xhp tunes. My only concern would be bricking my car.

Sorry for the spam but does anyone know anything about tuning the auto gearbox so that it shifts quicker and is more responsive to paddle input. Also can it be tuned so the car won’t auto shift when in manual shift mode. Thanks

So I’m getting that I should sell my car for a lesser price and just buy a manual car. Thanks for the help and the insight.

Another note, surely if I manual swap the car I’ll be able to get a bit of cash in my pocket for the auto box. I plan on holding on to the car for a good while after and having a manual car would bring up the value if I ever came to selling it.

Another note, surely if I manual swap the car I’ll be able to get a bit of cash in my pocket for the auto box. I plan on holding on to the car for a good while after and having a manual car would bring up the value if I ever came to selling it.

Yea I timed that a bit poorly. My thoughts behind manual swapping are that I know my car has been well looked after and I like the blue colour and my cars paint is still super mint. My only concern with manual swapping is it having a warning light for transmission. Is it possible to fully code the manual into an auto car?

Since listing my car three weeks ago, I’ve had multiple offers for 5k. Is that really all they are worth now? I spent almost double that a year ago to buy the car and back then they were getting snapped up before I could get a look at them. I want a manual 130i and I’m starting to think going towards a manual conversion might be the better option for me. Does anyone have any experience with the swap?

I’ve owned my 130i for almost a year and never knew about this thread until someone mentioned it to me in my fb post. I’ve just listed my 2007 130i on trademe. I won’t explain everything again cause it’s in the description of the listing. I will say here that the car is very tidy in my opinion and I’m only selling due to wanting a manual 130i. https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-4682252838.htm