Hutty008

Unplugging the connector would give a code, if that's what you mean.

Update on last nights work. New valve cover installed, this n52 wasn't as clean as my 130i even though they are both at 123,000kms so this one hasn't had as many oil changes most likely. Also found a bit of foil from the cap of an oil bottle under where the oil cap is, don't know how people can manage that. There was also quite a bit of oil in two of the spark plug wells, surprised it wasn't miss firing. Plugs look old and coils are dated 2011 so both will need replacing. The air filter is a almost brand new Hengst one so that nice but it wasn't clipped in, it was just resting there so there is a chance some air wasn't being filtered. Also swapped the intake boot to the original one of my 130 as it has the sound generator, which reminded me to do the golf tee mod while I was at it. Over all the car runs a lot smoother however using an obd reader the car doesn't get about 70c oil temp and 60c coolant so I think the thermostat must be stuck open so not healthy for the engine.

6hp21 and 6hp19 are two completely different transmission the 21 is shifts gear more than twice as fast as the 19. The 6hp21 on came with the n52 in lci 525i's and 530i's so pretty much impossible to get. You need to get a 6hp21 out of a 335i or 135i make sure it's past a mid 2007 build date as the revised the transmission. Make sure you get the mount and torque converter with it. Then you need to find some n52 zf trans cooler lines off a pre lci 130 of pre lci 325i or 330i as the GM lines won't work. Also will need to get a N55 6 bolt auto transmission flex plate along with some new bolts. I could find the flex plate on NZ so got one from the US. For the install you need to repin the transmission connector and definitely would doing new mechatronic seals and a pan/filter. All good to go after that, if you also want xhp you will need to get you hands on a matching 335i or 135i Key And CAS module.

Wow, now that is a deal. Worth at least 40k in my opinion.

Yeah only one manual 125i in NZ and it doesn't have m-sport body kit, suspension or interior so for me it is easier to do the manual swap on this one.

Unlike the American 128i that doesn't have the 3 stage manifold the 125i does. I already have files to do the 130i tune to bump it from 218hp to 268hp but will probably wait until the rest of the car is ready to handle it.

She walked away with out a scratch luckily.

What would you actually want for them because for $600 I would take them as I'm in the need for some new wheels for my 125i I just got today. But if you want bidding to run it's course I understand that. Would go to a good home though.

Once my 130i is back on the road I'm planning a trip up Auckland way, going to hit all my favorite roads along the coast to the coromandel. So you can also have a go in my 130i and see what a car with fully ball jointed suspension handles like. And on the note of 135i's being to fast to enjoy on NZ road this is what happened to my friends one on Sunday with is girl behind the wheel. Stock brakes on 135i's just aren't enough to keep up and she learned that a little to late unfortunately, drive safe everyone.

Never even gave a 135i the thought, just not for me. N52 is more than enough power for the roads I drive and it much more reliable with a decent bit less weight, for me suspension and brakes is the main thing that matters on a car. And yes definitely a n52 enthusiast, I always thought it would be good combo e82 with the n52 but options where limited unless I swapped a 120i or 135i coupe. Plans for this one is a more cost effective car to enjoy driving everyday unlike my 130i which is a bit extreme. It will get a full suspension refresh, some wheels and my old 335i brakes. Along with a lot of little bits which need sorting. Also needs a 130i chip tune and a manual swap is definitely a must for this one.

Introducing my new car, an e82 125i. I had been looking at a few of these that have been for sale in the past year but none were quite right. This one was probably the best fit and with only 13 in the country I decided to make this one work. This one is definitely a project and needs a lot of TCL so lots to come on this thread.

Also got the eccentric shaft sensor replaced as mine was leaking oil through the pins, it hadn't given a code or anything so be sure to check yours. As for the valve cover the one Elring one I had got off FCP had small bolts in most of the slots, upon a back and forwards with FCP they sent me a new one luckily that one was all correct so the first one must have been a manufacturing error. FCP didn't want the error one back so I decided to hammer out the 12 wrong bolts with the captive bits and I will push in 12 of my old bolts to make it all correct, giving me another new valve cover for a new car which a deal is in the works for.

Bit of an update on the past few weeks. Got the sump gasket replaced, engine mounts replacement and the front subframe back in. All is nice and tidy however I think the M3 steering rack is leaking so it will have to be sent off to be rebuilt, will wait until I get the car started to confirm the leak first though.

I have had good experiences with DBA and they are well priced when on sale at supercheap. Let me know if you need help with DBA part numbers and finding them on supercheap as it can be a pain.

Scroll on Facebook marketplace for 2 hours a day 😂.

Would be lucky to get 800 for the calipers as they are very chipped and rusted. Have to remember that car has 200kms on it. Yest I do think you can make money on it but not a lot. He had it listed for 2k when I saw it and I offered him 1.5k and he accepted it but I still didn't end up taking it.

Went to buy it to do a 130i manual drivetrain swap. The car was in a lot worse condition than described. The entire car has bad clear coat chipping and the underside is covered in rust, like bad rust the brake rotors wouldn't even be usable it's that bad. At the time he didn't even have on his listing that the interior was covered in mold and it was missing the key. He even tried to convince me that the clear coat was fine and he showed pictures of it after he had washed it while it was still wet. He was pissed that I didn't take it, and couldn't believe that I made a 12 hour round trip drive and wasn't going to take it.

Rear subframe prepared and ready to go in. Treated the surface rust spots were the weld lines were and painted any gaps in the paint, low effort compared to refinishing the whole thing but should definitely prevent further rust. Installed all the new bits as well, aluminum subframe bushings, super pro diff bushings, ball joints in the trailing arm, M3 spring arms, hard race toe arms, SPL eccentric lockout kit and new knuckle side bolts.

Front subframe out ready for the sump gasket job. It cleaned up real good and I swapped the M3 steering rack on ready to go back in. Before that though there is lots and lots of cleaning to do to the underside of the engine bay, then new sump gasket and engine mounts can go in. Probably my favorite but about having it completely apart is to clean it spotless.

Thanks mate, I need about 430mm or more to clear so that's sad, really need to find another set of wheels for my car to put some more regular tyres on. Don't want to waste my semi slicks on big road trips.

Can you measure the barrel diameter, wondering they would clear the 370mm brakes.

Also a lock at my exhaust setup for those who it might insert. Muffler has a bypass pipe to the valve side and has the first camber pipe wrapped. The resonator has also been wrapped. And the mid-pipe has been crossed over and had some added in to make it equal length like the laptop exhaust.

These are all the rear arms I will be running. I previously converted the M3 upper arms to ball joints on the knuckle side using through the use of CMP engineering shims.

Started today off with some odd jobs. New coolant expansion tank, I used an n55 one which all bolted up, has a much better level indicator which was the reason I made the switch, I even transferred over the factory Japanese sticker. Also did a new geniune BMW upper radiator hose, very surprised the old one was not leaking as it was completely f*!ked. Along with that I did a new hood latch as the old one didn't have the yellow rubber piece and was surface rusting and I installed a new power steering reservoir as with the M3 rack going in I want the whole system cleaned out. Next week I will be doing a new Eccentric shaft sensor as mine has been seeping oil though the pins and will be doing a new valve cover while I'm there as mine is original and there is no way I'm doing that good again any time soon. After that I will be dropping the front subframe to the the oil pan gasket, some new engine mounts and the water pump feed hose. I noticed when I did the water pump and thermostat that it was a bit swollen from past oil leaks and I have already replaced the other u-shaped hose next to it so that's the last one on my list.

Dropped the subframe today. I decided last week to stay with the non-m subframe as the trailing arm mounts on a slightly different angle, it would be ok as in putting ball joints into there but just doesn't sit right with my OCD ( can be seen in the photo below ). As such I order some hardrace toe arms instead of using the M3 ones. Next step is to install the aluminum subframe bushing which should turn up tomorrow, replace the diff bushings, install hardrace toes arms with eccentric lockout, replace the trailing rubber bushings with ball joints and install the m3 spring arms ready for m3 shocks. Should make for the perfect rear end, fully ball joints and solid subframe bushings.