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sam726

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Posts posted by sam726

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Hey Guys & Gals.

    Just wanted to gauge whether people woud want to buy the 3M Headlight Restoration Kits.
    The kits are no longer available in NZ and I'm thinking about bringing in a bulk shipment of them (by bulk i mean maybe 10-20 or something).

    One big downfall of these kits is not providing a proper sealant with it so the headlights would fade again in as little as a couple of months, however I'd probably bring in a quality headlight sealant aswell to keep the lights fade free for longer (a year or more). Each kit would be enough to do two headlights and is comprised of sanding paper, polishing materials that go on an electric drill. I know you can do it yourself with some wet & dry sandpaper by hand etc... but these kits just take all the stress & hard work out of it.

    Now I know that these were selling for around $35 a year or so ago when they were last available over here. After costing in the product, shipping & sealant I would be selling for about $40-$50 (this might become cheaper depending on what deal I can secure). Will also do mine first and provide a full write up on the best way to do yours, or could even do them for you for a small fee.

    Let me know what everyone thinks, certainly 10X cheaper than buying new lights, especially with lucky E39 people like me who have the factory angel eyes, xenons and clear lights that set me back $500 or so a pop!

    Cheers

  2. Posted · Report reply

    If it's peaking and going back down I'd hazard a guess that you need to bleed the cooling system. Sounds like you've got air bubbles trapped in there.

    Does the cluster temp gauge register the spikes or just the KTMP on the hidden menu?

    It was just the hidden menu that was registering the spikes. I think you were right about the air as its not doing it now.

    dont drive it , it wont be able to regulate the correct temp with air in the system .

    and these m54's run pretty hot normally and wont take much to push it over the edge and damage the head or head gasket

    cheaper to get a taxi than a new engine

    All fixed now! So good to go for another 100kms on that radiator :)

    Yeah... Make sure it's full of coolant when it's cold (like overnight cold) - leave the bonnet up for a while to coool it down faster.

    It could have a sticky thermostat, but the usually don't fail that way.

    112C is pretty hot for an M54, though the OBC over heat warning doesn't come on until 120C or 125C on the petrols! I'm not 100% if the original thermostats had a 97C mechanical rating, or if it was initially higher and BMW changed them later. The V8's have a 105 or 110C mechanical rating.

    If you can, I'd do the radiator, thermostat, waterpump; in that order. The water pump is less likely an issue, but they can fail (though my original was absolutly fine when replaced at 125K, impellor 100% intact). The thrmostats are a different story - they don't usually cause overheating, but are pretty unreliable. Both the mechanical part and the electric heater for the Map Control Cooling. It's possible to convert them to a mechanical thermostat, but you probably don't want that expense as well.

    Had you monitored temps before the leak? Was it ever that high before?

    I'd be limiting driving as much as possible! M54's don't like overheats, and the headbolts can strip the threads in the block - requires a timesert fitted to each hole to replace the threads.

    I'd never monitored the temperature before the leaks so couldn't comment on that.

    Have had the new radiator put in today and no more leaks! The temperature is also staying nice, hasn't gone over 96degrees once and in fact is keeping closer to 90 than 96. We checked the thermostat and the housing and thermostat both looked in really good condition, possibly even replaced before, so that can wait for another day.

    Did the Vanos seals while we were at it as well since I had them lying around and waiting to put in and wow I can feel the difference. Time will tell if my fuel economy will start to drop, 14.0L/100 is pretty shocking I think.

    And last but not least we removed my windscreen washer reservoir and cleaned the gunk out so now my washers work again!

    :D Productive day! Time for a beer I think...

  3. Posted · Edited by Sam G · Report reply

    I've been filling it up every couple of days with the engine running just to make sure it's always topped up. Have had the check coolant dime a few times but I've never kept on driving it after it tells me its low, luckily I live close to work and don't drive any real distances unnecessarily. Actually heading over to my mechanics now to get the radiator put in but I'm wondering whether I should be leaving it there and getting a thermostat come Monday or taking it with the new radiator and then monitoring KTMP after that.

    There is a possibility there could be some air in the system, I suppose once the radiators done and properly filled & bled that would rule that out.

    Either way I definitely want to do my cooling overhaul, only my funds limit that at the moment but if it comes down to being a faulty thermostat in need of replacement then I'll make room to get it done ASAP.

    Can't have her overheating on the Cannonball Run now can we! :D

    Also sorry this got posted three times, my computer & internet connection had a moment there!

  4. Posted · Report reply

    Hi Guys,

    I have a 525i with the M54 engine and have recently my radiators decided to start a leak. It's done about 130kms now so that's to be expected really and I'm going to be getting a new radiator put in today.

    My problem/question is that I've still been driving it around (no other car to drive), and have just been monitoring the KTMP on the 'hidden' OBD menu everytime I drive it with this leak just so I can keep an eye on things. 95% of the time the operating temperature is as it should be, somewhere between 88-96 degrees. A few times however it's shocked me a little and headed up to 105 degree and on one occasion I almost stopped on the side of the road as I saw it go up to 112 degrees. This anomaly has happened maybe 3 times in the last week, when it does happen I'll be driving normally along at constant speed (not stopped in traffic or anything) and when the car finally 'figures out' its too hot the temperature will drop back to 96 in a matter of maybe 5 seconds or less.

    Now, I do plan to do a full cooling system overhaul in the coming months as I know the radiator is only going to be the start of my problems but for now I can't afford to do a full overhaul so my question for the BMW experts is what could be causing this sudden temperature fluctuation and is it normal? And then is there a certain part replacement I should be prioritising to the top of my list to get done? I'm wondering about the thermostat but not sure if it could be causing this issue.

    Thanks for any help,

  5. Posted · Report reply

    I've currently already got a half broken one (just broke yesterday I think - the motor that grabs the CD's from the deck for scanning is broken, so the slider just moves to the position for each CD, but the part that grab the CD's just stays stationary). Wonder if it's repairable

    It could be. The guy i use operates as Max Electronic Services, 34 Amaru Road, One Tree Hill. 096342336

    Give him a call and just say one of his past clients said he could look at repairing it, and say you can pay cash ;)

    Your welcome to have either of mine if the parts could be worth salvaging to fix yours.

  6. Posted · Report reply

    Can i take a gamble at tony's tires? Have had enough bad experiences there in regards to their thoughtlessness and not keeping their promises (We'll beat any compet price by $10 a tire - good joke)

    Totally agree with that!

    Would never take my car there after the service they provided to a friend of mine.

    Wouldn't beat a price since it didn't 'match the quality' of their tyres, a long with providing slow, slack and unprofessional service.

    Absolute joke!

  11. Posted · Report reply

    I wouldn't be 100% convinced of the sump gasket, though they have been known to fail.

    The oil filter housing and power steering reservoir can both leak down to there. Our was pretty wet over the sump, but doing these two sorted it out. The sump can always be done at the next service, if it is still leaking (unless is a real gusher (unlikely)). That oil spreads a LONG way!

    Vanos seals are a good idea! http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/39809-vanos-seal-replacement-done/page-2?hl=%2Bvanos+%2Bseals+%2Bdone%26%2333%3B#entry446648

    Do the two belts and tensioners too - the bearings in them get rattley and can destroy themselves (at least check them).

    Check the DISA valve in the intake - only takes 2 mins to get out, and it can destroy an engine if it comes apart.

    And remember the cooling system can have issues. You want to scan for codes, because if the thermostat heater element has burned out, the engine will run hot all the time, and not run at lower temps when under load (The ECU/DME usually controls the temp via this).

    Cool I think I'll do the Vanos too as a precaution.

    Soo.... So far have the following:

    Pelican Parts

    Air Filter, Fuel Filter, Oil Filter, Oil Pan Gasket, Outside Temp Sensor, Spark Plugs (NGK BKR6EQUP)

    Brent

    Rocker Cover Gasket, Bolt Seals, Oil Filter Housing Gasket, Intake Boot (mines cracked), Cabin Filters

    Vanos

    Double Vanos Seal Repair Kit from Beisan, Vanos Gasket + Vanos Oil Hose/Pipe Washer from Pelican Parts. Then also have some of the optional/'easily breakable' parts on my order list - oil fill neck gasket, vanos piston bolts, engine cover bolts, fan shroud rivets, radiator overflow neck.

    Will ask my mechanic to check DISA and belts & tensioners when he has it apart. My list is already long enough!!

    Think I'll address some cooling system preventative maintenance early next year (unless my guy picks up on something). Car doesn't run hot or take ages to warm up or anything so i think that'll be fine for now.

    Anything else?! haha
    Thanks for your help bimmersporters!

  12. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks for all the advice guys.

    Got my mechanic to have another thorough look at it and he said it's definitely the sump gasket as there's oil all around the edges and below but not really around remote filter housing gasket (as though it's not dripping down). Going to get the rocker cover gasket and bolt seals off Brent, then get sump gasket sent over from online somewhere and will get my mechanic to do the oil filter remote housing gasket at the same time just as preventative maintenance.

    Going to be taking it in in the next week to get a full engine service done so all those gaskets, oil filter & change, fuel filter, new cabin filters, air filter. Needs a new intake hose as one has a crack so that'll get done too. And thinking I might just do sparks while I'm at it since I have no record of when they were last done.

    Anyone have any other suggestions of things to do while he has the car apart to this degree? He'll be checking everything anyway but more thinking along the lines of preventative maintenance.

    What about the vanos system, anything worth doing with that?

    Thanks again!

    Sent from my LG-D802 using Tapatalk

  15. Posted · Report reply

    Hi Everyone,

    Wondering if someone can please assist to point me in the right direction. I'm going to be doing the oil and filter on my 2002 525i and while that's getting done I'm going to take the opportunity to tighten up a few small leaks by doing the rocker cover gasket and sump gasket.

    I suppose what I want to know is two main things:

    - Where would be the best place to get the gaskets from, BMW NZ has quoted $90 for rocker cover gasket and $110 for sump gasket.

    - Also what type of oil would you recommend?

    Thanks in advance,

    Sam

  16. Posted · Edited by Sam G · Report reply

    Hey everyone,

    Just thought I'd 'show off' my E39 after she's cleaned up and had photos taken.

    I must say the photos sure make it look cleaner than it actually is haha :)

    This is of course after the truck hitting me has now been fixed, me crashing into my garage has now been fixed (DOH!), and the crack on the back bumper I bought it with is fixed. + some yellow fog lights just to be different and a black grill and some tinted windows and there she is.

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    • Like 1

  17. Posted · Report reply

    Is this still being used as a daily? Does it still drive with that noise? How was the maintenance on the engine? Does the owner have records?

    Hey mate,

    It is no longer being used as a daily, does still drive with the noise it just sounds bad and is sometimes a little jerky to change gears so i wouldn't recommend using it daily without repairing it.

    The engine has had regular servicing but I couldn't be sure exactly what has been done. I think it is due for another service though.

    Anything specifically you'd like me to check?

  21. Posted · Edited by Sam G · Report reply

    Selling on behalf a 1996 BMW 323i.

    The car is in as to be expected condition for the age and kms. The body is straight, paintwork could do with some attention in places, mainly around the body kit. The interior is good condition for age, leather doesn't have too much wear. The only bad side in interior is the steering wheel is worn, along with other small bits of wear and tear.

    Unfortunately the car has developed a problem with a grinding/rattling noise from underneath the car. His local mechanic said it was the gearbox and he isn't in a financial position to fix the problem at the moment so needs to get the car gone ASAP so he can buy a cheap run around, as the car is used daily to get to work and back. For this a quick sale is needed.

    - Full black leather with heated front seats

    - AC Schnitzer Kit (non-genuine I would imagine)

    - Lowered Bilstein suspension

    - WOF until 03-01-2014

    - REG until 25-12-2013

    - Motorsport mirrors

    - 5 Speed auto

    - 178,000kms

    I'm sure this would be an easy fix for the right person. Priced at 2.5K ONO.

    Bad quality YouTube video of the noise, http://youtu.be/SWuKo6LfuEc.

    For more information PM me, contact me on 021 926 299 or Mitch direct on 021 297 4612.

    Viewing welcome in Mt Albert or CBD.

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