nzhaystack

$800 BS Price txt 0274079971

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=522423026

LCM units fail in these ,

Thanks for reply, i opened up the LKM and all solders etc appear to be in good condition. also today whilst driving my rear fog lamp went and was notified about it on the dash.. all wires are sweet checked measured 0.02 ohms between light and fuse, the bulb is sweet as well. so the LKM needs replacing to the looks of things?

left headlight low beam not working, when ignition is turned to ON the msg DIP BEAM displays on the dash. right low beam is sweet.

thought it was bulb changed it over but still nothing, checked low beam left fuse which read 11.54v with headlights switched on. right headlight reading was the same. ideas of what to check for?

wanting to know if my car has a cat converter in it?

I would jack up and look for myself but my jack looks on the verge of death with the weight of the car lol.

bmw 735il 1989 m30b35 auto

e32 735il 89' chur!

So looking at another bmw this time im going to buy a semi decent one and will spend around $5000. Looking for a e36 318is coupe prefered in manual but auto is fine. I would like to know if these cars are good runners, any common issues? what to look out for on them? What about performance ive heard the 1.9l twin cam engine is a good runner and will put an 328i e36 to shame on the 0-100?

SOLD.

Yeah it is that car lol pretty sure it got pranged in the snow..threads somewhere on here

Yeah had a bit of an accident in the snow. All been repaired and tyres re aligned.

Trademe Link:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.as...653&ed=true

Good run about car, alot better on gas after recent service including spark, fuel, air, oil change.

All servicing has been done to schedule.

WOF till December

Rego till November

Vechile is in alpine white, NZ New, and 5 speed manual (good gearbox and clutch).

Current Odometer reading: 297677

Sold with Sony headunit and a few other goodies.

Next Service due at 307000

Cambelt serviced replaced at 272000

Standard m20b20 motor in good condition.

There are a few minor issues reflected in price

$900 ONO.

*More photos to come*

My 320i e30 is having problems starting, I have replaced all sparks, leads etc. replaced relays and fuel pump. Any ideas what I else I could look at? Its ticking over like it almost wants to start but just doesn't quite get there. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers

I had this issue with my 320i went over all relays, got fuel, got spark etc. Turned out to be the Air Flow Meter, i was told the circuits are proned to failure in them causing bad connections and making the car hard/impossible to start. I got mine running without one by taking off the intake boot and leaving the afm connected. Cranked it over and it started ok. Just had vaccum leaks etc from the pipe hanging loose. Was about $80 for a replacement unit, well worth a go

Can someone please tell me if its worth repairing. no speed involved this time just some idiot in the ice who decided to stop infront of me which resulted in me swerving out the way and hitting the curb. I have a photo of it. I have lost power steering wheel jutters like crazy and is scraping against wheel arch. The passanger footwell has been pushed up and i can smell gas really strongly. Here are a few pics of the damage:

Thats the wheel are tyre hitting the wheel arch it was scraping as i drove along, there is also a huge bend in the tie rod end and control arm:

I will get some more pics up when the weather clears.

I just gave it a $300 service last week so would be a shame to part it but if its going to cost me more to fix i will part it.

All is up and running again now. in the end required the following

Control arm

Tie rod end

Sway bar link

Sway bar link bracket

Wheel alignment

Mitch, thats all very well but if you had hit his car - his insurance company would be after yours who in turn would penalise you (excess etc) for having been in the wrong. As stated above - you must drive at a distance to be able to stop short of the person in front, regardless if they jump on the brakes. At the end of the day - you were both driving on the same road surface.

Good luck with the repair - it does look minor

Yeah i know repair should be all completed by tommorow. I thought it was huge damage just by the way it handled just after the crash lol

I hate to say it but it is not the guy in the Micra's fault. You can argue it as much as you like but at the end of the day Mitch failed to stop safely so any insurance that would be paying will be his own.

Its allgood i am only covered for 3rd party fire and theft so wouldnt have really made a difference.

You need E30 M3 control arm bushings LOL

Edit: why is this guys insurance not paying for this? were you up his ass or driving too fast for the conditions or something? i dont see how he could stop so suddenly yet you cant?

Following distance was a good 20m and was going probabyl 30k, He just slammed on the breaks for no apparent reason i done the same and just kept sliding and sliding and eventually hit the curb. He just drove off as although nothing happened.

At least they are rwd

I have some more photos. The control arm has been replaced but just need a few other bits and pieces and it should be good to go. Engine mounts were a little loose but have been tightened.

Have a look in the engine bay at the strut towers and also the chassie rails to make sure you havent bent the actual body. Engine hasn't ripped off it's mounts has it?

Wouldn't be much in parts to fix it if the body is straight. Control arm, tie rod, complete strut, maybe swaybar, and of course another wheel.

Really need more detailed photos

Was just going for a drive when some little asian man in a nissan micra slammed on his breaks. My e30 breaks and the best and the snow didnt help and yeah straight into the curb.

Can someone please tell me if its worth repairing. no speed involved this time just some idiot in the ice who decided to stop infront of me which resulted in me swerving out the way and hitting the curb. I have a photo of it. I have lost power steering wheel jutters like crazy and is scraping against wheel arch. The passanger footwell has been pushed up and i can smell gas really strongly. Here are a few pics of the damage:

Thats the wheel are tyre hitting the wheel arch it was scraping as i drove along, there is also a huge bend in the tie rod end and control arm:

I will get some more pics up when the weather clears.

I just gave it a $300 service last week so would be a shame to part it but if its going to cost me more to fix i will part it.

sounds like you have a leak on the inlet manifold, which is small enough to temporary seal once the car is warmed up!

Well i have found the issue or what seems to be the issue at least. The 2 spark plugs that prooved good for a spark were numbers 5 and 6. Didnt test the other 4 which my father done and found there to be no spark. We tried the coil out of my dads bmw into mine and still no difference. Then removed cold air box and took dizzy cap off and saw that the rotor had chewn itself to pieces. Its nothing and all burnt up. Seems as though i might need a replacement rotor then, also would that expain my fuel efficiency problems ive been having?

Cheers

Mitchell

as Andy said...relays are ment to click

This clicking seems really weird though and its never done that before. It seems as though it clicks on then clicks another 2 times then does nothing. It only usually clicks once and now its doing it twice.

little repetitive hits. but if it smells like gas its prob not the fuel pump. but try anyways

Just tried exactly as said and still nothing. Hmmmm its got a spark, all water temps etc are connected. I still have that clicking relay when i put the key to on however.

does it smell like gas at the exhaust when you were doing that? as i said try and tap the fuel pump while starting. happened to my e36 2 years ago. i started tapping it while having my bro start the car and it worked.

It does smell like gas yes, ok i will get someone to start the car whilst tapping fuel pump. As in tap do you mean big hits or little repatative hits?

while the car is idling or starting tap the fuel pump with the back end of a screw driver or a rubber mullet.

Here it is here, this was done litterally 10m ago. Just cut out the swearing at the end.

Hey All,

Recently done an oil change and fuel filter change. Also changed Fuel pump relay and AFM within the last 6 months and all has been good until about last week. The car has been causing me starting troubles and will run like absolute crap when its cold, it takes about 30 seconds to start and almost catches then dies again. Once its going a puff of black smoke comes out and rpm sits at about 300 then fluctuates to about 500 and back down again. Whilst looking in the engine bay whilst this is happening i noticed the rubber fuel hose moves then the car rpm drops then picks back up again. Im not saying that its a fuel problem for sure it just seems a little ironic. Also when driving on a cold engine and putting the foot down it jolts and struggles to find power. This has been ongoing for about a week now and it really quite annoying.

Something i cannot work out however is the car runs flawlessly when the engine is at normal temp, there is no sludging, plenty of power and no jolting. This leads me to suspect that it is not a fuel problem.

Could someone please help me on this? Any other info you may need i can give you.

Cheers

Mitch

I can eliminate the fuel pump been an issue as all voltages etc have just been checked and all checking out good. Now looks to me as its the main relay as there is a click when i turn the key to on which i have never come across before. Any way of testing it?