nzhaystack

Yeah that would explain my problems!! Have had a look now, red wire is coming from alternator, and black wire is leading to battery. so they need to be on the same post on the solenoid ay? reckon i would have damages anything the way i had it? i didnt try cranking engine only put terminal on and realised i had no ac.

WIN! Just wired it up correctly now, battery is to dead to start it however is engaged the flywheel and spun at about 1rpm lol. Cheers for your help Polley!!!!

Actually, that black wire could be your battery positive feed, and the red one is for your alternator. It would explain the dead short at your battery.

Confirm those two wires (black and red) are for your alternator and battery positive first, if they are, connect them to the same post. (same post the red one is already connected to)

Edit: I havent seen an E30 before that has an earth going to the starter. They just earth thru the block / gearbox.

Yeah that would explain my problems!! Have had a look now, red wire is coming from alternator, and black wire is leading to battery. so they need to be on the same post on the solenoid ay? reckon i would have damages anything the way i had it? i didnt try cranking engine only put terminal on and realised i had no ac.

Where does that black wire come from on yours? If it goes to the body, that is fine and is a earth. If it goes to the alternator, it is the wire that charges the battery and it needs to be moved to the same one the battery feed / positive goes to.

Just because it is black / red does not always indicate positive / negative.

Thanks for the insight onto this one polley, i will have a look at the wiring and see where it goes and get back to you.

Cheers

Mitchell

Looks fine. I would disconnect the battery and make sure you dont continuity between positive and negative.

As per your photo you had, i saw you had the black and red wire on the same post, mine are on different posts. Is this a problem?

You did not connect the earth to the left post did you?

Earth is connected to mounting bracket, think i have got an understanding of where sh*t goes now. Here is how it is setup.

Do not connect any earths to the starter (unless it is to the body of the starter).

The second post becomes live when you try and start it. You would of created a dead short.

Edit: Do you have a picture of you how you wired it? In one post you say you earthed it to the mounting bracket, and the other you say to the second terminal / post.

I tried a few things lol. Yeap will get a photo up here asap

Cheers for your help polley!!!

Mitchell

So it sounds like you wired your starter correctly. But put the battery in incorrectly. Is that what you have done?

If that is the case, alot of cars have a fuse link near the battery, it is usually under some heatshrink, so have a poke around and see if you can find anything like that.

What i might be thinking is starter is in incorrectly as im sure the negative goes on the second post on the starter. The Battery itself has not been modified and is fairly new, and no changes to wiring at all have been made. Had a look for this fuse and cant seem to find much? How far away from the battery within the wires do you reckon it'l be?

how did you wire the starter?

Positive on the normal terminal, negative to the mounting bracket on the starter motor and ignition on one of the two points it has

Hey Guys,

Looks as though i wired my starter motor wrong, when i put the battery back on smoke and sparks from the terminal leads went everywhere (it usually has a tiny spark and a little puff of smoke) however it was heaps this time. My negative post was in the wrong place and now when i go to turn the key to AC it does nothing, no stereo, no lights, no dash board lights no nothing lol. If i re wire starter correctly would it fix all my issues or have i damaged someting much more serious?

Battery is reading 12.66v and is only a month old

All fuses are ok, and relays look in tact, but not sure on how to test if they are ok

Any suggestions on what to do now?

Cheers

Mitchell

Thanks Jon,

Im very keen to get some parts from you,

Will be in touch soon.

Hi Tony,

I have an 84 e30 and have had the temp guage not working before, after doing the following it sparked into life:

1. replace the sensor (or just clean your old one)

2. clean all metal contacts (toothbrush etc works well)

3. ensure the grounding nut on the back of the cluster for the temp guage is done up tight

Mine works like a charm now shouldnt take more than a few hours to do

Mitchell

How many poles are there on the starter?

There is one positive, 2 ignition ones, and another one going from solenoid to starter motor body

The setup i have is - positive on positive terminal, negative on the mounting bracket, and ignition on 1 of the 2 possible points

Hey Guys,

Got the starter wired in today, had positive on the normal post, the ignition wire on the normal post and negative onto the bracket (if thats right). Connected up the battery and now when i turn key on dash nothing lights up at all and no stereo or nothing etc seems to work. Battery is reading 12.66v Any suggestions?

I think i might have put the negative wire in the wrong place but could be wrong.

Cheers

Mitchell

clean the bell housing before you re-install it

Cheers Jon, gave it a good degreasing just before putting it back in Gearbox is now bolted to engine and now need to put driveshaft in, could you/someone please tell me how to separate the driveshaft into two pieces?

Thanks

Mitchell

Dont forget the spigot bearing

Cheers, will triple check everything then bolt to engine.

looks alright to me. i thought you were going to buy a b25 though?

Change of mind on that one haha, will get it going an then sell it

Hey Guys,

Will be having a go at reinstalling my gearbox on the e30 tommrow. Just have a few little questions. Firtsly does the throw out bearing and clutch fork line up/go in like this?

Also, i brought a new slave cylinder as my other was was f**ked, new one didnt come with a rod though so i ripped the rod out from the old one and pressed it into the new one, it seems to be pretty firmly in there but is there something else i need to do to secure it.

Cheers

Bare engine only, by this i mean alternator etc, cold air box etc wont be needed.

Must be close to wellington with lowish km. Also must be in good working order.

To suit: 1984 320i e30

Cheers

Mitch

bump! closes tomorrow night

bump

Run with it then. Plenty of life left in the lining of that one.

Sweet, will do

Clutch looks alot lighter in real life, I gave it a good degrease and it smelt normal.

The circlip retains the piston.

I can't remember offhand the set up of the end of the push rod that goes into the cylinder. Sometimes they are not fastened but simply sit in place, others will have a flange of sorts which sits behind the circlip. If this is the case - remove the circlip, insert the push rod then refit the circlip.

As above - the clutch plate lining looks good but can't be sure that it's not got oil contamination or is burnt from the pic. Maybe clean it with Brakleen

Sweet, will give that circlip thing a go. Also how can you tell a clutch that has suffered from oil contamination and a burnt clutch? Are there any imperfections i should look for?

Open bleed screw to push t back in?

Already tried the bleed screw from what i can see there seems to be a ring around the piston that is stopping me from forcing it back in.

Clutch plate looks fine, slave cylinder just needs the rod pushed back in, it will go, just push it firmly, make sure you don't squirt the fluid all over yourself.

Sweet, is it allgood to apply sh*t loads of force to get the slave cylinder back to place? Doesnt want to budge at all

Hey everyone,

Iam having some trouble with the slave cylinder, took it off the gearbox and the rod on the end of it suddenly expanded right out and cant seem to get it back in its housing? any suggestions. I also got some photos of the clutch in here as well just to conform that its allgood. Camera was on charge so had to take photos of laptop webcam Cheers

Clutch doesn't come out with cam belt replacement - why remove the engine for that? It can be done in situ easily. What else was planned for the engine then? Why not do all now while it is apart?

BTW if clutch not near the rivits then still has good life in it

At 300000 k's also planning to change the oil pan gasket and the rocker cover gasket and will just make things a bit easier to put the engine on a stand