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nzhaystack

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Posts posted by nzhaystack

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Well looks as though my temp sender is fine, took car for a drive today came back and unplugged it and stumbled for about a second then turned off compeltely. Plugged back in and started it up and went fine. Will have a look over vaccum lines this weekend and fix up the exhaust and see how it goes :)

  2. Posted · Report reply

    I've been telling her that for 3 years. Good luck. She just changed us from a zoned system back to a fixed rate, gave me $30 more a week :D. You've got it good out there though, smaller delivery area then us and some of the best management. Chris is the man. We have Vanessa running our store now (Amandas lackey) <_<

    Yeah Chris is a good guy :) true i wondered where the f**k Vanessa had been lol.

  3. Posted · Report reply

    firstly yes a exhaust leak will do some of it .

    also check for any vaccum leaks around intake system (all the vac hoses and intake pipes)

    engine running lean will mean you have to put your foot it to it more just to keep it going.

    faulty fuel pressure reg , check if there is fuel in the vac hose that plugs into it.

    the main things that effect fuel when driving is the air flow meter (these wear out over time)

    the resistance track wears out and will increase fueling.

    also the engine temp sensor the one that tells the ecu how hot the engine is , if its not working or has a bad connection ,broken wires etc etc it will tell the ecu that the engine is cold and the ecu will deliver more fuel.

    test by running engine when warm and unplug the temp sensor (blue plug) and see if the engine starts to stumble etc

    also basic maintance like a clean air filter and new spark plugs , Ht leads ,dizzy cap and rotor etc all these things need to be in good order.

    Cheers for your help!! Ok i can eliminate AFM as i replaced it about 3 weeks ago and havent seem a problem since. I will have a check of vaccum leads and fuel regulators and will defiantly give that blue temp sensor an unplug and see if i get a stumble etc.

    Thanks

    Mitchell

  4. Posted · Report reply

    Dominos Porirua. Well up til thursday last week at least haha. Should also do somewhere between 8 or 9 on the open road. My subaru legacy rs twin turbo did the exact same fuel mileage as the E30 does <_<

    However the E30 is tonnes cheaper to fix!! And more reliable too :D.

    Also, if the hotcell starts on the floor it cant end up on the floor upside down ;).

    Dominos Upper Hutt for me :) Hotcell chills on the front seat and usually some hard braking and some decent corner taking will see it on the floor in no time :). Amanda needs to give us more gas money!!!

  5. Posted · Report reply

    Mine uses about 11-12, to give you an idea how it should be running. Thats a 1985 320i, and running mostly city driving (Pizza Delivery), doing 500+kms a week, consistently averaging the same.

    Thats a mix of 5th gear cruising, and a decent bit of thrashing cos I'm the quickest driver and damn proud of it! (Not speeding, just agressive acceleration lol).

    Definitely sounds like something is wrong.

    I am a pizza delivery driver as well funnily enough, and yeah deliver in my e30 :) I do roughly 300-400km a week and cruise in 5th gear going 50k. I tend not to thrash it too much as the customers food usually ends up on the floor upside down lol. Dominos or Pizza Hutt?

  7. Posted · Edited by Mitch Wakefield · Report reply

    Hello people,

    My car has been trouble free for a long time now and is holding up well, over the last week i noticed that it was using alot of gas. My driving is all around town and about 70% is calm and 30% is aggressive and currently i use 15l per 100km. This seems like way to much my mates twin turbo uses this amount with him thrashing it all the time!!!

    I checked all fuel lines and ensured injectors are seated correctly and all looks well, no cracks are present in fuel lines etc. one thing i did notice is a rust hole in exhaust near the top of the manifold area. Would this have any impact on fuel efficiency? I have also noticed the car has been surging when you put the foot to the floor going like 55k in gear 4 it will make a sound that kind of sounds like urrghhurrrgghurrrggh. I know my descriptions are vague but someone might have encounted something similar :)

    I run it on 95 all the time and sometimes even 98 if im in lower hutt.

    I talked to the guy at repco about it and he said a new fuel filter and a bottle of injector cleaner would set you away laughing but i feel as though there is something else is going on.

    Any Suggestions would be much appreciated

    Cheers

    Mitch

  9. Posted · Report reply

    Hey guys,

    Supprisingly enough my car has been going like a swiss watch for the last month or so no problems what so ever apart from today on the way home from school. I braked at the stop sign and the Brake wear warning light came on for a second than off again. I then braked again and it came on and stayed on then braked again and it was off. Went out again 20m later and on the way there it done it on and off about 10 times and on the way back it was on the entire time. Old owner done the front pads and they have plenty of meet still on them. I have drums in the back which i have never measured the amount of meet on them but havent seen a problem with them so far so i am thinking a faulty sensor could be it? Is there only 1 sensor for e30's? if so where abouts do i need to look?

    Thanks

    Mitch

  12. Posted · Report reply

    hey guys,

    After a pfl m20b25. I am doing about 800km a week and my cambelt needs changing at 300000km and dont want to do that so will need to start looking for a m20b25. Just trying to make the b20 last until the cambelt snaps lol. Anything that meets this criteria is good:

    Under 200000km

    $300-400 mark ( I saw a minter go for $220!!)

    Easy Life

    Can be proved in running condition

    No known issues (minor sh*t like rocker cover gasket needing replacing is fine as this will all be done prior to the engine going in)

    Cheers

    Mitch

  14. Posted · Report reply

    PFL. crank sensor setup is different between PFL / FL

    Shouldnt need to. Just swap your current loom over providing you get a PFL engine

    nope

    yes

    Cheers man, looking forward to the extra power!! the m20b20 needs a cambelt change within the next 15000km or so. Most of the seal need replacing and thought the m20b25 would be the better option to go for

  15. Posted · Report reply

    With the tax refund on its way i want to look at giving the 320i some more power.

    Just to ensure i get the right engine that will work on my current loom etc i need to know a few things

    1. Do i get an engine from a pfl or fl e30?

    2. should i buy and engine with a loom package included

    3. Do i need to upgrade anything on the car like fuel pump etc?

    4. Will my Getrag 240 thats currently running on my m20b20 bolt straight onto the m20b25?

    Cheers

    Mitch

  17. Posted · Report reply

    Hey guys,

    Well e30 failed for 3 things

    1. already been fixed

    2. Front brake lines perishing (FL + FR)

    3. Lower ball joints worn (FL+ FR)

    Have got the parts all sourced out and replacement looks pretty straight forward however on reading a forum it said the lower ball joints cant be replaced on e30's. And it is simply a better option to replace the entire control arm? Could someone tell me if ball joint replacement on e30's is possible without replacing control arm. The wof inspector guy said the ball joint should just pop straight out and the internet is saying replace the control arm. Confusion :P

    Cheers

    Mitchell

  18. Posted · Report reply

    Hey guys,

    am looking at doing a straight swap with some guys 525i. Im swapping e30 manual coupe for his 89 m20 525i with leather seats. What are things i should look for when taking it for a test drive? i have heard its good to check water level and oil level take it for a trash then re check it and see if it has raised of dropped etc. Any other recommendations would be awesome

    Cheers

    Mitch

  19. Posted · Report reply

    Flap within the AFM is free, looks as though i will be paying you a visit Jon. As a electrical feature of the car does it need the AFM plugged in to start the car? because i have the intake boot off and free and the vaccumm pipes free and the AFM unplugged and nothing. Plug in the MAF leave the intake boot dicconnected and vaccum piped disconnected and she goes first time.

    Cheers Jon, installed that AFM and fixed up gauge cluster running like new now!!! :) old AFM was fried and completly f**ked lol.

    Cheers

    Mitch

  20. Posted · Report reply

    sounds like AFM, change it "like for like", not any random one that is the same size

    give me a call if you get stuck, have plenty

    cheers

    Jon

    Flap within the AFM is free, looks as though i will be paying you a visit Jon. As a electrical feature of the car does it need the AFM plugged in to start the car? because i have the intake boot off and free and the vaccumm pipes free and the AFM unplugged and nothing. Plug in the MAF leave the intake boot dicconnected and vaccum piped disconnected and she goes first time.

  21. Posted · Report reply

    yeap all contacts are clean and is plugged in.

    this is a quick summary of what is going on:

    No intake boot but maf still plugged in: starts fine

    No intake boot but maf unplugged: wont start (will crank and almost catch but wont go)

    No airbox and no maf plugged in and no intake boot: wont start

    Does this sound like the maf needs a clean? if yes could someone please enlighten me on it.

    cheers

    Mitch

  23. Posted · Report reply

    ^^^^ My bet it's flooded.

    Remove plugs again, clean & dry, or better - replace

    With plugs out, wide open throttle & crank the engine to clear. Refit plugs

    Cleaned up plugs and left them out to dry overnight, charged battery fully up put plugs back in and tried to start her up again. Was almost about to catch and certainly sounded better than last time but still nothing. My dad removed the intake boot and vaccum hoses then made a coffee and not realising it was off i started it up and it went first time!! put the intake boot and vaccumm hoses back on and tried starting again and nothing? thinking it could be afm? icv is real clean no dirt at all on it.

  24. Posted · Report reply

    Thats what we were using lol. One thing that i found until i gave up was the spark plugs had alot of oily sh*t build up around them, gave them a good clean and got to dark before i was able to reinstall them. Perhaps this could have been the problem? one other thing i noticed was when we were trying to start black puffs were coming out exhaust and smelt very stong of fuel.

  25. Posted · Report reply

    hey guys,

    Replaced a few frost plugs which didnt go to well so took them out and done them the proper way which seems to be allgood. However my car will not start, have checked for spark and is fine, my dad checked coil and fuel and both were fine. Why the car was off the road we also opened up valve rocker cover to inspect the cam etc. All vaccum pipes etc have all been plugged back in. Every time it catches and is about to start normanly it gives up faster than i can say f**k lol.

    really dont know what in the blue f**k is going on here so any help would be much appreciated as usual

    cheers

    Mitch

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