WarNox

Hello, BMW replaced the whole turbo because of a faulty wastegate valve, as they apparently don't provide just the wastegate valve separately. The new turbo, including a wastegate valve, was ~$3,500. From a 2018 F20, with ~60k on the clock. $400 (or make an offer) NOTE: The wastegate valve is faulty.

Sorry, didn't see this reply. It was this part, https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part?id=1R52-EUR-01-2018-F20N-BMW-118i&mg=51&sg=15&diagId=51_8572&q=51117387170, and ended up getting it from BMW.

Hi, I'm looking for a front bumper tow fitting cover, in black for an F21, if anyone knows where I could get one. It's not too expensive new, but then I have to get it painted. https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part?id=1R52-EUR-01-2018-F20N-BMW-118i&mg=51&sg=15&diagId=51_8572&q=51117387170 Thanks.

Hello, I've purchased one of these, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DCG2EPW, but do not need it as got a different holder for Euro plates now. Was never installed. Comes with everything except the "Unique Screws + Wrench". Pick-up in Auckland.

Hi, BMW lost my key so these are now free to a good home. Located in Auckland or I can ship at your expense. Cheers.

Hi, Just wondering what people's experiences have been with claiming warranty on their imported BMWs? I find the concept of "the customer pays for it, BMW reimburses whatever they see fit", a bit of a nonsense as there are no guarantees up front but it is what it is. I would just like to know if other people have been reimbursed for the total cost of the job (parts and labor)? I've got 2 issues with my 2018 F31; One is just a failed wire in the rear screen demister, not a biggie but would like it fixed. The other is more complex to diagnose, where the touch screen/iDrive system sometimes just clicks around on it's own (ghosting), usually on hot days. BMW tried diagnosing issue two and did a software update on all the components in the car (~$400 later...) but next steps would be more diagnosis and replacing parts, which I imaging would get rather expensive. Thanks for any input.

I see, thanks. I have the two piece setup, as the net cover is already there, just luggage cover is missing.

Hi, As per the title, I need a black boot parcel shelf for an F31. I’m not sure if they differ non-LCI to LCI models. Cheers

Awesome, thanks. I've sent an email and signed up for BCA ?

I was actually just looking at that. Decent price! Did you go through an importer to organise it all and find the car? If so, which one? I’m in the UK until December so I might be able to work something out.

Saw that one last night and the F30/F31 335d's seem to have good reviews, definitely worth looking at. Can't find an LCI model on trademe to see a 2015 vs 2016 price difference. Those facelift headlights are much nicer :)

Thanks for the replies. Yes, that post was a bit all over the show, I’m not really interested the 2-door track toy You’re spot on with the depreciation of the 420. I seem to remember it was bought for around 90k 18 months ago. Not that many 335i/d around but for the same price as an e90 m3 I could get one 3-4 years newer. Might just need to test drive both and go from there.

Hi, I've been trying to decide what to buy for ~50k and can't stop thinking about the e90 m3, even though I know it's not a sensible option. For a similar price I saw a nice blue 2017 420i gran coupe with many extras (sold last week) which looked like a great deal, but it's not an m3. I have read many posts and watched videos regarding the issues with the e90, but no car is perfect. Whatever I get, it would be a daily driver and I'd prefer 4 doors. Tracking it is an option, but not something I've done in the past. Is the e90 m3 a good option, or should I be looking at something else which has similar performance? I had a quick look at 1Ms, but they seem a good 20-30k more expensive. Cheers for any input.

I was just waiting for a reply like this --- Glenn, sorry but I cannot bring the car in this week. I'm working in town.

Hi all, Yesterday my car started struggling under acceleration, as if it's bunny hopping while rpm rising. Most noticeable in 1st and 2nd but also up to 4th gear. It seems to get better once past 3k rpm. When idle it seems fine although can feel a slight vibration every few sec, it does not stall. Just wondering where you would suggest I start with diagnostics/troubleshooting? I'm guessing it could be something with the fuel/air intake. Thanks for any help.

I will try this tonight and let you know how I go. To reach these wires on the started, do I have to remove the manifold?

I do have a multimeter available yes.

Thanks Glenn! Do you know of an easy test I can do to find out which one it is?

Hey! This morning I get into my car to go to work and it would not start. The engine was not turning over. I stopped trying after a while but sounded like the starter motor kept on going and the only way to stop it was pulling off the battery lead. If I put the battery back in the starter motor starts going again. Anyone know if this is just a faulty starter motor? And if it's easy to replace it? Thanks, Gregor

Hey! Basically someone hit my side mirror and 2/3 of the places where the outside of the mirror holds on to the car side have 'popped out'. This is hard to explain so I included a picture. The parts in red are the parts that popped out. Just wondering if there is a way to push these in? Brute force doesn't seem to do anything and I'd rather not break it. Is there some sort of a mechanism in there? I've taken the mirror off the car but was still no use. Thanks for any help. Gregor

I think the actual arm's are fine, it's just the joints that aren't. Looks like a bit of a mission to do at home, need special tools to get all that off.

Yea suppose when you think about it that way. So what goes into that middle join? All it says on realoem is that it's a hex nut. I just need the name so I know what to order.

Hey! I failed my warrant because the wishbone (control arm?) has a bit of play in it, on the passenger side. This part has 3 parts where it connects to the car. I've included this picture to help explain my problem. Basically the warrant guy put a crowbar, where the red line is in the picture and there was a bit of play when he put a bit of pressure onto that crowbar. He told me the problem is with the part circled in blue. How do I know if he's right or if the problem is with one of the other 2 joints? There is no play on the drivers side at all. Also, since it seems like a bit of a pain to replace all this is it worth replacing the other joins too? Thanks for any help. Gregor

Its ok, I got to change the rocker cover gasket anyway, so might as well do it all at once. Thanks for the help.

Do I have to take the manifold out to fit or can I do it from the underneath? I will give Ray a call later on today. Thanks