mops

Thanks for the input. All though the oil temp sender is somewhat the size of the factory mounted oil pressure sensor, my oil pressure sender is rather big... I'll post pictures tonight when I get back home. As I said, a T piece of a factory mounting position would be good too, BUT it would require cuetom made T piece, or best case scenario t piece with several extnesions on one end.

Thanks topless. that definitely helped. Yes, i have those screws on top of termostat housing, in fact both have different threads and one actually fits my sender :bounce: Sadly, I'm still not sure how to hook up both oil press and temp senders. Yes, i know where the factory oil press sensor is, however fitting would have to be custom made. I could put oil temp in sump plug, however that would make it the lowest point under my car therefore I'm pretty sure it would get damaged on the first unnoticed speedbump . so yeah, i'll do some more research on what to do with oil temp/press. I just cant believe noone here did that already in their m20b25 But that's cool. I'll post my findings

Thanks for the info. I'll try recommended places for parts. On my rod joint that particular bushing is EXTREAMLY worn (cirecled on pic) In fact the plastic busging is not there, hence the extreme slopyness on the shift leaver. Apart from that the that joint is allright.

Hello. I just spent whole saturday under my e30, as I attepmpted a rebuild of my shift linkage. Few thing that I learned that I didnt see anybody mention before. To rebuild your shift linkage in e30 325 you have to: 1. undoo rear exhaust mounts, so you can bend the exhaust out of your way. 2. remove the heat shield (10 bolts) 3. you have to disconnect the driveshaft from the guibo (spelling ?) and undoo middle driveshaft mount and let the driveshaft hang there. (pic 4) Other not-so-good things... 1. I broke my shifting arm durning the process - while trying to remove shift leaver form the nylon cup (pic 8) 2. The selector rod joint that i got from the dealer turned out to be different than the one I had in my car (pic 25) 3. I think my shift seal is leaking (pic 20) So yeah, I'll update as i put it together :/ Pics Here If you know somebody who can solder aluminum let me know ASAP. Shifting arm will be available at my local dealer but i have a suspicion it will be expensive. If you can recommend a BMW dismantler/wreckers plz let me know.

THansks for great info guys. I know Brass-Fit, i used to deal with them when i was building my computer water-cooling systems and then what i was mucking around with boost on my twin turbo legacy. As well I read somwehere that under the exaust mainfold there's an engine coolant drain plug (drains coolant from engine block) - i might try to stuff my water temp there. As well aparently my car might have oil cooler. i hink it sould be good place to fit a T connector for the oil pressure I'll post and update and make a complete pictorial guide once i'm done . Cheers. Mops.

the thing with oil is that i have both pressure AND temp, so 2 senders. senders look very similar to factory mounted oil level sensor - would probably fit into the tread but i wouldnt want to remove the factory one.... and where would i hook up water temp sensor ??? would just at the output of engine water be good ?

Hello. I just got a set of nice electronic gauges that i'd like to put into my E30 325i. I have oil pressure, temp and water temp - total of 3 gauges. I was wondering whether is there an easy way of installing them, because i'd like to aviod drilling in the sump (or other engine parts for that matter). I did a search on the internet for something like that but couldnt find anything constructive. The gauges I got come with installation manual, it explains how to mount them on dash and how to connect them/etc, but they dont mention oh how and where to mount the actual sensors (senders) for a proper reading/measurment. Any help appreciated. Thanks in advance Mops.

is that the one from the sitkcy ??? whats the total size of all the pfd's ?

if you are considering a flush, the only wai to do it is with a cheap oil. If you use one of this STP engine flush things, be preparred to replace seals around the engine.

ok, since we have spark plugs covered, lets takl about oil. castrol semi-synthetic 10w-40 you are saying. What if I wanted to put full synthetic ? would something like castrol formulaR 10w-60 siut my m20b25 ? mind you my valvetrain is noisy as it is, and i'd like to put something thicker, which might possibly reduce valvetrain noise ??? or maby motul 15w-50 ? ( i think mobil 1 full syntch makes same grade oil).... so generally, if I wanted to go synthetic, what grade should I use ? I dont drive my car often, but when I drive it, I drive it "with a spirit" if you know what I mean

sounds good. dealer as in jerry clayton or team mcmillan ?

the primay thing i'm concerned with is that i read that i will have to remove driveshaft.... is that correct ??? i got no idea how to go about doing that.... as well when you mention the dealer to get stuff from. which particular dealer did you have in mind ?

Howdy. I just bought 1985 e30 325i, 2 door, 5 speed manual that needs a bit of TLC. The shift linkage needs rebuilding badly. The gear changes are so bad that i sometimes put 4th instead of 2nd and 3rd instead of 1st. The car is hardly drivable in that condition. Anyways, I found several guides on how to do it, but I got no idea where to source parts here in auckland. Could you guys point me in the right direction ? I would consider a short-shift conversion (like from 1.9 Z3 described in several other places at US forums), if it wasnt much more expensive. Again, it would be great if you could share your experiences if you have any in this area. Any clues appreciated. Thanks in advance Mops.

maby i'll snap few on the weekend

would you have 3 spoke steering wheel by any chance ?

Thanks guys. I really appreciate warm welcome. That broken window switch might be the case, as the window winds down, but does not go up there's an allen key stuck in the door that allows you to wind it back up :banghead:

yeah, how much do you want for it ? and is it LSD ?

Hello guys. Yes, I did buy the car for $3200. So far, so good. I'll be posting many questions about how to fix this/ how to do that in the comming days/weeks. This morning on my way to work, the car was flashing check on the dash, and when I checked the onboard computer, it told me that my screen washer fluid was low, hahah! i wonder whether it makes coffe and do dishes too ? Planned repairs in order 1. fix leak of oil pressure/level sensor 2. Adjust valves 3. put thicker oil, so they dont go tick, tick, tick like it does now (really loud, barerly noticable on clod engine, but REALLY loud once warm). 4. transmission shift bushes needs replacing badly. 5. replace all shocks 6. fix not working passenger electric window 7. fix all rust then I'll see what else needs doing

Hey dudes. I had a good look at the car today. I went to my mate mechanic and we lifted it and had a very good look underneath, as well inspected by 3 different mechanics. The only thing i learned about the car is that oil pressure sensor needs replacing and waterpump possiblt might be on a way out. I found some more rust on the rear driver flare. No structural rust. Some rust on the very bottom of where the sideskirts would normally be. Looks like a bit of rust work, but otherwise looking good. essentially i want your opinion guys... whether it is worth 3k ? no rust under battery, in boot, bottom of doors , etc. Drives very well, it's just that rust now that it is my concern, then Again, most is fixable by me.

Oh damn, I'm so excited. So far it sounds good Is the noisy valvetrain a problem ? I mean, will that damage engine prematurly ? Or is it ok to drive with it.

Hello. I'm currently looking at buying a 1985 E30 2 door manual 325 that has done 122000 miles. Asking price is $3500 in auckland. I'm wanting to have a weekend car, that I could do some work on, with decent performance. I do realize it's not a new car, but i'm prepared to spend some time and money on it to make it better, just for the fun of it. THe particular one I'm looking at has been driven by older lady It has a bit of rust, but nothing that I cant fix. It drives allright, the only issue there I see are the gear shift bushes need replacing and brake is a little bit sloppy (i.e. i have to push it further down than than normally to brake), but it still breaks good. Performance is pretty good, exacly what I would expect from 325 (i never drove 325 beofre, i drove some 318, 320 and 323's). My only major concernes are with the engine itself: -valvetrain is REALLY loud. They just changed the oil with some elf synthetic. Thesed no bottom pressure (if I remove oil cap and dipstikc it doesnt blow any gases out of there -> sign of good engine), but you can hear those valves from miles. Can that be fixed with different oil or adjusting valves ? -looking from the under of the car at the engine, it is coveded in oil and greases, like it was leaking oil from somewhere. What are the typical places those engines start to go ? lastly, can you tell me what model engine do I have ? the car has badge 325 only (not 'i' or 'e'), the redline starts at just over 6000 rpm. Is that the m20b25 engine then ? Are there any aftermarket ECU's that would improve engine performance ? Thanks in advance, I would appreciate a quick response, as I'm viewing the car sat afternoon (toomorow). Mops.