mops

that tusbo in that movie is i think holset hx50 i see you got bodykit and wheels sorted out, what about engine internals to support that horsepower ? what headgasket ? what headbolts ? I'm building m20 turbo aswell but aiming for streetable ~ 300whp wide powerband.... power can be made with appropriately sized turbo, but as always alot oh hp means poor bottom/midrange.... for strong engine i'd recommend 89.6mm crank (s52 m3 engine) with 85 or 86 mm overbore and custom forged pistons and rods. HX50 will deliver your target hp but fail on the bottom end....

Hello guys. I'm pricing up m20 stroker turbo build. I did alot of research, mainly on e30tech. I'll need to make full rebuild of head and bottom end. I'll need: -main bearings -rod bearings -piston rings -bottom end gasket set. -top end gasket set -possibly few rockers -possibly few springs -possibly few valves -definitely some performance head studs.. raceware are really expensive... aparently ARP makes m20 studs, metric blues arent the best i heard (for turbo) -aswell I'll need saschs (spelling) 618 pressure plate anything else i should consider for a full rebuild ? Whats the best (read: cheapest) place to get all that stuff from ? I'm prepared to order overseas.... Aswell what I'm considering is to get somebody to build that engine for me. Are there places i Auckland (and vicinity) that are specializing in BMW engines ? aparently Bavarian motorsports did few stroker builds...

soome good info here. now, what about things like main and rod bearings, piston rings and engien gasket sets ? from US... main bearing ~US$100 rod bearing ~US$80 piston rings ~US$100 both gasket setrs probably another hundy US...

haha, i'll

i would be keen aswell for some quotations., soon i'll be rebuilding whole engine including head, so I'm looking for good prociues for bearings (main and rod) gasket sets (top and bottom) piston rings possibly few rockers, possibly few valves would be nice to replace all bolts... once again, it is sad, but the chaeapest place i can get stuff from is US.... once again all NZ retailers I know of are charging ridicolous prices, i.e. stealer quoted me $500 for a set of rings anf $over400 for main bearing set. auckland's segadins was somewhat better. cheapest were probably auckland engine reconditioners (they probably get trade prices somewhere and get it much cheaper and sell with profit).... any pointers/hints would be greatly appreciated.

dowsn anybody sells shole set of bushes ? I wouldnt mind buying whole set. I called BNT sometime ago they dont have rear subframe bushes for E30 and they mentioned they can make them at approx $110 per unit (you need two). at those prices replacing all bushes can easily go over $1k. I wouldnt mind replacing all bushings, but at that price it is realyl questionable.

hm... are you in auckland by any chance ?

months ago i made my own short shifter out of a stock one for a cost of box of beers... but the rod mount below flurcum. inserter about 15mm (if memory serves me right) or random rod beterrn flurcum and rod mount. essnetially moved rod mount 15mm further to flurcum. welded it up. reassembled. very nice... the 15mm distance is crucial. 2mm less will give you smother changes and 2mm more will be too aggressive/hard/nothy. I'm not sure about 15mm... i dont remember now...

no, no, no, it's not like that. hes trading lunch for ECU lecture

gus, if you get one, i'd be happy to rent it form you (so you can recover some money) when we are going for lunch ? do they still do wedges at auckland uni ?

my 325i is a motronic 1.1 (as supposed to jettronic) manufactured in 1985 imploted to nz in 92 i think... many sources say that motronic engines were put only to FL e30's... FL e30's have motrinc 1.3 ecu's.... that is 6 pot ones... your might be aswell an ealry motroinc. see whether you have oxygen sensor.... if you dont then you are early

so how is it going grant ? dude, i sent you few pm's but the pm service on sis sitte must be playing up...

hey gus ! bloody good idea about bmw services lol... i'll be doing my engine aswell at some stage (probably later than sooner) that 2.7 has to go in somehow I was kinda hopeing you could help me for some pizza/beer/petrol money, but damn, we can always work something out P.S. My 2.7 bottom end has arrived... now i have to measure it for wear.... i got hayness manual with all dimensions and stuff, but got no clue how to go about it all.... I havent picked up the engine from the workshop yet.... I'm thinking I might open similar service for Megasquirt installs

thats buddy.... thats some great help... [edit] download e30 on and it is in Russian - Cyrilic....

Hello Guys. My 2.7 short block arrived, currently sitting in my mates workshop. I need to know all the clearances info, so we can measure it up for wear and work out what needs replacing. I'm told this would be in the Bentley manual. I only got Hayness one, I think i'll oder bentley from amazon.com, but I'm I was just wondering, if anybody in Auckland has one i could borrow for few days I would really appreciate... Thanks in advance, Mops.

I see... i understood he wants $650 just for manual conversion... yes, i know about stroker conversion. I'm looking for that 2.7 bottom end for m20 turbo stroker build. so you are saying that rear subframe would fit e30 (does that run 5x120 stud ?) ? I dont really have a place to store whole car, but i guess if i have no other option then i'd take it lol I emailed that dude, and just awaiting reply....

I dont get it.... where can i get all that for $650 ? i'd take 2.7 and 5-stud conversion kits (no need for manual conversion, haha).

if it is 2.7 block then i'll take it !

lol, I need m20b27 bottom end, haha. and m20b25 head, lol. and rear part of center console for e30 coupe

yep, manual with smaller engine will have shorted dffr ratio and that will greatly contribute to the fuel consumption. I would be interested to know, if both of you are driving say next to each other at, say 110kph, what kind of rpm's are you at ? I bet 528 auto will be nearly half of 523 manual... and that affects open road effiecency greatly... on open road driving stule doesn really affect fuel consumption much (you sais you were going pretty much together) - unless you are racing with heavy breaking every corner and stuff for extended periods of time... maybe his car is running rich due to, say bad pplugs or clogged oxygen sensor or something along those liunes.

like, when you gonna have the lds and cranks ? I'm all keen. let me know... yeah, well, if you can find one. truth of the matter is the only one for sale atm is ar bavarian mottorsports and they want $1000 for it AND it is unknown condition. I'd gladly pay $500 for ear bottom end, but I can find any for months now. so any assistange in locating one is appreciated....

are there any uprated m20 clutches available locally ? for m20 turbo application....

yeach, pics... what do you mean motor replaced 5000k's ago before ignition damage ? whats the state of the ewngine. I'm keen for the head, depending on the milage and condition.

my recomendation: it will be cheaper to buy the same engine off trademe than rebuild yours.... camshaft is likely to be ~US$200+ shipping from US, and set of rockeds... i dunno, you would have to check. since you will be doing that you will need aswell all head seals, most likely inclusing new headgasket and new headbolts. (read another ~NZ$300-$400). now thats if you do the job yourslef. expect several hundred NZ$ from a reputable workshop for labour... for $500 you should be able to fuins a decent 318 engine on trademe.... possibly even 318 IS engine....

i reckon turbo is the best bet for m20... m20 in na form is not really tunable as stock intake mainfold is pretty damn good, and you are getting towards the limit on 2 valve engine. depending on how much money you are prepared to spend really... i think cheapest power for e30 is m30 conversion.... then m50 and stroked m20 turbo are more expensive, m50 2.8 for nice N/A power and turbo m20 will be good for about 350bhp.. if you do it cheaply (secondhand parts, etc) you might get it all done for $3k for the same amount you might be able to build N/A m20 with maybe 230-250hp. these price estimates assume you do alot of work yourself. If you want a reputable tuner do it for you expect $10k for a start...