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Steve K-B

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Posts posted by Steve K-B


  1. So Ive got all the parts and every thing was sent to an engine builder.

    Turns out the sleeve at the top of the M52 block does not go right to the deck and this is where my problem is. With the M54 crank the rings now travel further up cylinder wall and past the sleeve.

    I did plenty of searches over the internet but found nothing in regards to this problem. Does any one know if there are any diffrences within the M52 family of blocks? I know they had two diffrent sleeves, Nikasil and in america they used cast iron and I wonder if there was any diffrences with sleeve height?

    thanks,

    steve


  2. Cheers Ollie, No particular club sport events in mind, hill climbs, rally sprints etc. Would love to do the Taranaki rally tho

    Ill be down at hampton for the second weekend, are you going just this sat? I should get out of the barn for a bit and come down


  3. The dash bar is solid and sits just above the steering column, I just had to chop a little bit out of the steering column bracket but it fits pretty easy.

    As the car had an air bag the roll cage had to go through to the front turrets. Its only one bar on each side but have been playing with the idea of adding a second from the roll cage foot up to intersect with the turret bar. Had to move the fuse box a bit to get it in.

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  4. So here is the new look as of tonight:

    Have got the old mans wheels on to see how the ET35 17" by 8"s would fit.

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    They have filed out the guards ok but am still looking into an E46 lower arm to help.

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    Solid mounted rear diff

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    Have just positioned the pedal box and have yet to make gussets.

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    I angled the door bars towards the outside with my theory being that it will help in a side impact. Landing upside down in water and a side impact has always been my biggest fear. The down side is I think the cage will be weakened in a front impact so I will have to make gussets to stop them from bending in a serious front impact.

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    Also does any one know if this is from a BMW?? I found it in my car but don't know where it came from. Doesn't look BMW to me...

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  5. Update, Photos to follow soon.

    Have ditched the old rubber mounts in the rear sub frame in favour of alloy solid mounts from turners, will also be replacing the rear rubber diff mount with a solid alloy bush once I have my new diff sorted. The two rear bolts on top of the diff are now extending up into the boot with some steel tube and washers (welded onto the subframe) that are acting as spaces between the boot floor and the subframe. This will allow me to tie the diff into the roll cage or strut towers via more steel tubing.... altho I havnt got that far yet. Should be finished by the end of the week. The medium case diff didnt quite fit in so I had to do a bit of chopping, cutting and welding of the body. but its all in now with plenty of room.

    Both seats are in looking good, cage is %95 done are in and the car will be going into get welded up towards the end of the month. Will be good once thats alll ticked off.

    Engine is apart at the engine builders and we hope the out come will be an M52b30.

    Next big job is attaching the rear guards


  6. Cool thanks guys. So its 6500 to be safe. How hard is it to raise the limit to seven?

    Ive got the M52 at the engine builders where there attempting to see if the M54 3.0ltr crand rods and pistons will fit...

    I Will look at replacing the harmonic pully with something diffrent a little down the line. Shrick cams, spring etc are the long term plan also. Will see if the above will work first.


  7. Aren't they cheap brand new? Being aliminium I wouldn't go 2nd hand too.

    Have not priced up new ones yet but will do it on monday. I dont see the diffrence being 2nd hand steel or alloy as long as the ball joints are good.

    Edit: Even if the ball joints are stuffed ill take them. I just need them to see how im going to make them fit.

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