Yuen
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Posts posted by Yuen
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Looks very nice. I'm a sucker for Montreal Blue, but give us more details on this one, where was it imported from, and also it looks like a 1998 model?
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Hey Guys,
Thought i'd point out the following link, just because the car looks so damn clean. The mix of a black/white on that car is awesome, and totally better than when ricers paint their hood black... hah
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=629449
Seriously, who WOULDNT like that?
Yeah, that car is FTW
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Rofl at the dude that gets pawnt by the Viper.
Was he lucky or what!
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This is nuts... thought you all would want to see this!
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repco sell loom adapators . bmw to kenwood etc
Yup. Steve, go to Repco, it'll run you max around $25 for two harnesses. You need 2 because 1 will connect from your stock harness to a generic connector. The other harness will connect from the generic connector to whatever headunit - in your case, Kenwood. I think mine cost $10 each, or was it $15 and $10.
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hey, do you need to buy that bmw pin thing as in the instruction? or can you just buy any other pin that would fit into the hole?
You can just use a paper clip, I remember people using them.
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Silver bulbs/DIY spray painted orange bulbs, to get rid of the orange in the indicators.
Btw Spargo, I saw your car on Hobson last night, looks awesome! I actually think I saw it on Hobson a few weeks back, in the day - you were cruising right beside me then you gave it a bit of gas and the exhaust sounded good, it was very raw and didn't sound like a stock exhaust. Have you de-catted or something?
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ahh poos.. thats bollocks.. i inspect and service my car every weekend or whenever im free and its sunny..
what does it mean by inspection anyways? spark plug checks and so on??
Yup, spark plug check is a part of the Inspection. There's Inspection 1 and Inspection 2, one is more important than the other (more things to check), you alternate them I believe... to do an Inspection at Team McMillan I was quoted $600+ and that was not including any parts, which you can be sure will need to be bought because they will find something in our old cars that needs replacing. Suspension etc are part of the Inspection as well.
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well ive driven both a 320i e30 and own a e36 320i..
what can i say... e30 is much lighter and nible than the e36. but lacks the interior comfort the e36 gives..
personally i would go for the e36, it feels more stable and safer than an e30 especially in the motorway. ( i know some e30 members might think otherwise though).
I drive a Helen Clark
I would test drive the E30 318/320 and E36 318/320 and choose from those. IMO, E36 320 is not a good buy, if you really want a 6 cylinder E36, go for at least a 325. Preferably 328 or M3. I've sat in E36 325s and the butt dyno feels much difference.Btw, my 320 is a 1992 non-VANOS. Later M52 320s had VANOS.
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Is it Avus Blue? Nice car for sure. But 850CSI FTW.
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On that subject, whats the difference between the M50 and M52 and oil filler is where for which
Earlier E36s = M50. Oil filler cap on the back (closest to firewall)
Latest E36s = M52. Oil filler cap on the front
Edit: As for the VANOS, there will be a bulge in the valve cover at the very front, as Brent said. If it's flat then it's non-VANOS.
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Did you bleed the system properly?
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hmm sounds like i should try mintex next time.. The EBC seem to do as they say in the way of reducing dust and he breaking performance seems good for everyday driving just the rear ones which are EBC black seem to squeek every so often.
But yeh i guess its better than having to clean my wheels every 4 days like i would have to with OEM pads
If you do choose to go with EBC, maybe you want to try EBC Red Ceramic. I hear that's a good pad. Their name was tarnished last time but apparently now they have turned over a new leaf and are doing quite well. The only reason I didn't go with EBC is that I got quoted too high a price for them. Ended up getting my parts from the US.
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Discuss.
Looks the same to me. Looks good, too!
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Thanks yuen, you've been a really great help, i'll go to the dealers and sort out some parts, cause the last thing i want is tacky.. i just thought that they may look good.. And thanks for the page on cleaning.. they really do need a clean
EDIT: Yes it is Avus Blue
No worries man... just keeping the M3s looking good
Let us know how it goes! -
Do the S52 or S50 E36 M3 engines come up for sale very often?
Unfortunately, no.
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there will be hidden problems. - people dont just leave a car sitting for a year because they feel like it and then de-reg it. Taking someones word that nothings wrong with it.. is a bit silly. Would you leave a car for a that length of time and de-register it.. surely you realise the huge pain it is re-registering.. it seems insane why someone would do that instead of keeping it live or flicking it off.
Can you make sure its actually been NZ Registered? because it might be that this is just a failed import that is just getting fobbed off and quite possibly isnt registerable.
Not being silly, I haven't even seen the car yet
Just posting what he has said. But obviously by posting I'm not taking his word already... "if it's too good to be true, it most probably is". It was priced that way because the guy has factored in the re-registration time and hassle.I've just been told that it hasn't been NZ registered at all. Story is that it was de-registered in Japan and shipped over by a guy who owes the current seller money. The car was part of the repayment of the debt. I know that if it was worth his time and money he would have re-registered it and sold it for a gain... so I guess it's likely it's not worth all that trouble. Pity, because the car looks nice...
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Having been through re-registration a few times, you will need:
- ALL paperwork of ownership history (receipts of sale etc.) from as far back as you can get, they need to follow the cars history to prove it aint stolen
- brakes/brake pads will be required to be replaced/rebuilt - the brakes are a bio safety thing for imports but they ask for it as a matter of course for all re-reg's
- if there is anything that even looks like a repair it will requirte a light vehicle repair cert - from one of a few experienced panelbeaters athourised to give one. $500 - $600
Rereg is $350 I think, plus one registration cost
It takes a while depending on what must be done so allow yourself the time!
I say go for it and put another E36 on NZ's roads, makes my old cars rarer
Hey Damo,
Thanks for the detailed info! Ok, so let's run through it:
1. No paperwork at all
2. Brake pads (+ rebuild kit) - $300ish
3. Repair cert - not sure, I hope not!
4. Re-registration + Registration cost = ~$550 for a year's rego
5. Third brake light missing = $50 - $100 at a wreckers
Not looking too optimistic at the moment. $3k + around another $1k for a 1995 318iS at 101,000kms... not to mention the time.
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if its de-reg'd a bmw pre-purchase inspection is probably going to be a few extra pages long.
Whats wrong with it ... why has it been de-reg'd.
Apparently nothing wrong with it. Just hasn't been started up in a while. Interior looks good, overall could do with a clean. Third brake light is no longer there. Other than that, nothing I can spot, will have to get it jacked up to check underneath.
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Don't go near a de-reg car. Just don't. They car is only worth 3k tops.
it will end up costing and arm and a leg to get it recerted.
Andrew, is it a lengthy process as well? What does re-certing usually cost? Funny you should say that because the guy is asking exactly $3k.
If it's a 95 it should be an m42?
problems to look out for: being overtaken by old women in people movers & not being able to outrun a Mazda Bongo van full of drunken teenagers.
They're dead slow.
Nope, it's an M44. 1.9L. 140bhp I think, my 320i is 150bhp so it won't be much of a downgrade at all.
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Hey all,
I am looking at getting an E36 318iS. 1995, 101000km. Has the M44 engine. Having a 320i I have no experience with the 4 cylinders. Are there any common issues with the m44 that I should watch out for?
Also, if everything checks out, I want to bring the car to a BMW specialist to check for any problems and give me the go ahead. My mechanic is fine but I'd prefer a BMW workshop who knows their BMWs inside out. Anyone know good BMW workshops in Auckland? Also what sort of price range am I looking at for such an inspection?
Cheers.
EDIT: It has also been de-registered. The owner doesn't have the de-registration documents though. Will it be hard for me to get it re-registered without any documents? Also what are the costs?
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I think I asked team mcmillan and they said Castrol Magnatec, so i put that in. you shouldn't swap from non-synthetic to synthetic as it might kill all your seals or something, i read that somewhere.
The general consensus is that it is a little risky to swap from dino to synthetic if your car is over 128,000kms. Reasoning is that the molecules of the synthetic oil are smaller than dino oil, so it might get through any gaps in the seals/gaskets that the dino oil, having bigger molecules, did not get through. I thought what the heck, and did the change right around 140,000kms, no problem, and I'm glad I did it
*E46 BodyKits/Parts*
in Want to buy
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Hey Dan,
Just a FYI, I'm quite sure the E46 M3 front bumper will not bolt on to your car, same for the rear. Reason being the M3 has flared fenders. You might be able to get a shop to make it work though, ask Josh (Hybrid), I think he has OEM pieces on his E46 330i.